Paint, POR-15, or Powder Coat (1 Viewer)

[thecrazygreek]

In other words... All are good options if prepped correctly... So for gods sake... Blast or dip it in and out first...

 

[apeterson]

Blasted. Then por. Then por chassis coat.

Would donly exactly same thing again.

 

[brooklyn]

Will be doing this over the winter, more maintenance as truck will be attached to frame. Was wondering how you clean the inside of the frame - blow out some of the crud.

 

[Skydog]

A lot of POR suggestions; but I know of an alternative, which I'm knowing is equally attractive; and for me, was the way I went : Eastwood, which can be found on Amazon or eBay, and has website too (Eastwood - Auto Body Repair Tools | MIG Welder | TIG Welder | Plasma Cutter | Auto Body Supplies & Accessories) sells POR products, i.e. POR-15, the POR prep products, etc. But they also sell product under their own brand name. This being their Chassis Black paint series. I too would have the chassis formally sandblasted (as universally agreed here, and I did as well). But then, one could go the route via Eastwood's 2K epoxy primer & then Eastwood's Extreme Ceramic Chassis Black on top of that. Or, use Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator product (which can indeed be applied directly onto the clean, sandblasted metal, as a rust-prevention primer) & then use Eastwood's regular Extreme Chassis Black on top of that (which is not only more smooth-finish than the Ceramic Black, but also incredibly durable in most every way). Both products are offered in gloss back & satin black - and will NOT quickly fade. For the internal portions of the chassis (inside the tubed cross member, etc), Eastwood has a Rust Encapsulator rattle can with a 24" long tube - that the spray will cover the entirety of all of these un-seeable places. I'd think the same type tube could be utilized for the chassis paint as well. - - You wouldn't go wrong with this route & product. However, attractive via Eastwood, they've got basically everything else you'd need as well. They'll even mail to you a product catalog each quarter, if you wish - that one can have a field-day looking through. ~Skydog.

 

[Splangy]

Eastwood's chassis black paints are awful. They have very poor UV protection and the solvent resistance is not much better than a hardware store rattlecan paint.

And don't use a rust encapsulator over nicely sandblasted steel. It just doesn't make sense. If you need a primer, use a primer!

Formula for success:

-Sandblast
-Epoxy prime immediately after blasting
-2k topcoat (a decent acrylic urethane for example)

 

[php74]

Paint w por. Easy touch up forever and hard as a rock.

 

[sadam_husain]

only thing that has ever stuck to any of my frames has been por15, did my FJ75 frame in 3 coats of silver por15 and 2 coats of their chassis kote black coming up 7 years ago and its as good as the day I applied it other than colour fading on the black top coats, although my truck lives in the garage I'm coastal water front and see a lot of salt spray

 

[thebigredrocker]

Not sure if the Chassis Coat by POR-15 is the same as TOPCOAT. I used TOPCOAT on a some parts. TOPCOAT isn't in the same league as HARDNOSE(now 2K Urethane) durability wise. I swear I could smack my frame with a hammer and you couldn't tell where. Hardnose was definately a bugger for me to figure out. I didn't thin it enough to allow the paint particles to laydown. Therefore, I had to apply more to get coverage. In otherwords, connect the thick paint particles. Then it was on so thick it sagged in some areas. That's my theory anyways

I'm under the impression if you have clean/bare metal, you can just shoot the epoxy on. I also thought the origional POR-15 rust encapsulator prefers a rusty surface for best adhesion.

 

[DTSkyCop]

Let us know what you choose and Please post up some pics of the progress... Subscribed for the updates.,..

 

[JDCruiser]

I am just getting ready to mine.... here is the processing I will be following:
- Sandblasting
- Double Dip Galvanizing
- Retap all weld nuts
- Sweep blast to remove any zinc oxide
- Power coat

Total cost is $900 for all of the above performed across 2 shops.... I will do retaping of the holes.

Figure it will outlast my grandkids with this technique

 

[tstepp920]

I am just getting ready to mine.... here is the processing I will be following:
- Sandblasting
- Double Dip Galvanizing
- Retap all weld nuts
- Sweep blast to remove any zinc oxide
- Power coat

Total cost is $900 for all of the above performed across 2 shops.... I will do retaping of the holes.

Figure it will outlast my grandkids with this technique

"Sweep blasting" please explain

 

[JDCruiser]

Sweep blasting is similar to sand blasting but at a much lower intensity. It is used commonly for galvanized products that will be coated or painted. It removes the oxides that form on the surface of the zinc galvanizing and enables the coating to "take to the surface" it also roughens the galvanizing up a bit to provide better adherence. If done properly it should only remove about 10um of thickness from the surface. It is typically done at lower pressures (ie. 40psi) and finer media than what is used for sand blasting. This is to control the amount of zinc removed and not damage the integrity of the galvanizing layer. It gets its name because of the nozzle handling technique, where rather than directly swirly or slowing moving the nozzle, you use a sweeping motion over the surface. It was set out as a requirement to me to by the power coating company that will receive my frame from the galvanizer and indicated it would need to be sweep blasted... They are charging me $150 to sweep blast, where as the initial sandblasting was $275.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Mines getting blasted, epoxy primed and urethane painted as I type. Should be done in the next day or so.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Picked up the frame earlier this afternoon. Epoxy primed with low gloss urethane paint. Pleased with the results.




https://flic.kr/p/QEFgfR

https://flic.kr/p/QEFgfR

https://flic.kr/p/QEFgfR

https://flic.kr/p/QEFgfR

 

[KStoNCFJ]

This looks really nice. I'm in Raleigh and need to get my frame done. Who did you use? And if you don't mind, what did they charge?

Erich

 

[S4Cruiser]

This looks really nice. I'm in Raleigh and need to get my frame done. Who did you use? And if you don't mind, what did they charge?

Erich

Rays Custom Rides, north of Hillsborough. Paid 650 which may be a bit high but this frame has more welded to it, older POR 15 had to be blasted off and I really like these guys. Probably will have them paint the body panels when ready this spring.

 

[tstepp920]

Double shock hops, sliders, ....do I see mounting plates or bases for a roll cage?

 

[S4Cruiser]

Double shock hops, sliders, ....do I see mounting plates or bases for a roll cage?

Yes...all of the above

 

[Jetlander]

Picked up the frame earlier this afternoon. Epoxy primed with low gloss urethane paint. Pleased with the results.

Ooooooh!

 

[jeffj40]

It cost me $250 to get mine galvanized and I had it back the same day. Seemed like people were wondering the cost. Saved a lot of prep. They dipped it in HCL to etch it and molten zinc to burn everything off. Came out nice.