Disclaimer, this post is for information about my own experiences and not to be construed as directions or advice on a product or procedure. All images are from online searches on some general points and for illustrative purposes only. The usual terms by the forum managers apply.
I decided on some 2015 Tacoma Snowflake rims for my 1998 4Runner knowing the offset could be an issue if the tire size exceeded the stock 265/70/16. About the only thing that changed was my turning radius which is really quite tight with the stock '6-spoke'. Went to Wally World online for a great price on a set of 265/75/16 multi-terrain tires with a deep tread. Same price as the highway tread stock size I usually purchase. They get delivered to your store's auto center (mount, balance, and buy the road hazard) and off you go.
I ordered two sets of four. One for my Taco and one for Ol' Crusty (98 4R). I really only need two for each vehicle for the front but got two sets of four (8 pcs total) so I can set up the rear wheels to track in the same width proportional to the OEM dimensions. ('pop out the front, so may as well pop out the rear'). One inch is my min-max but this company makes all the common thicknesses. I did not experience vibrations or anything unusual. Take your time when you install.
At Wally World, the tech noted that the tire was less than a quarter inch from the upper control arm. Accurately predicted a tiny rub. Why press your luck? Spacers are the solution and trying to keep things as close to stock I started looking for 1.0 inch spacers.
Of course everyone says get Bora or SpiderTrax vs the usual Made in Ch*** unknown alloy spacers. Ama*** was no good the way the AI robots push you to some very questionable imported spacers. Reviews were no consolation and the prices for the 'name brands' are ridiculous. I worked in aerospace machining and prototype manufacturing for over 15 years and have a solid history of actually making things both 'by hand' and 'CAD-CAM / CNC'.
Finally found a very high quality product here in SoCal. I think there's one post somewhere that a member had a bad experience but it worked well for me. It's Custom Wheel Adapters in San Bernardino, CA and for the 3rd Gen, you want the hub-centric with the 106 mm center bore. Conservative 'bare minimum' is the 1-inch and it's perfect. Very high quality materials, excellent machining, and high quality studs and nuts. They arrived three business days after I ordered online. (The picture of the tire interference and the snowflake rims are from an online search for illustration.) Cost to my door is shown below for 8 spacers. Yes, eight spacers, aerospace grade alloy, aerospace grade fasteners, CNC machined, and Made in USA. Americans still make great products, don't let anyone convince you otherwise. No brainer installation. Buy some brake cleaner and non-residue degreaser, some Permatex anti-seize, Loctite. Get out your 21 mm socket, your torque wrench, a 19 mm socket for the nuts on the spacer, and a jack + jackstands.
Also, get a 36-48-inch long steel stake from 'Big Box' construction supplies... you want the basic steel stake used for concrete forms (~1/4 in thick x 1.5 wide). Why? Some people say 'place your car in 4wd to lock the axles' or some such advice. I don't care to stress internals needlessly. 1. After cleaning, placing the antiseize, put the spacer nuts by hand down 1.5 threads and squirt loctite into the nut. 2. Ratchet them down criss cross snugly. 3. To torque down the nuts on the spacer, put three of your OEM lug nuts on the studs of the spacer, equally spaced in a 'triangle'. 4. Slip the steel bar at an angle so one end touches the ground and the other end slips between the two OEM lug nuts. That will keep the hub from rotating and the only stress will be on the two studs holding the torque of the steel bar. 5. For the 87 lbs or so torque of each nut, you'll be fine and you'll have to rotate the hub and remove-replace the steel bar as you do the six nuts. After that , you'll be fine. Just like changing a tire.
Again, just sharing my experience and using online images for reference only.
I decided on some 2015 Tacoma Snowflake rims for my 1998 4Runner knowing the offset could be an issue if the tire size exceeded the stock 265/70/16. About the only thing that changed was my turning radius which is really quite tight with the stock '6-spoke'. Went to Wally World online for a great price on a set of 265/75/16 multi-terrain tires with a deep tread. Same price as the highway tread stock size I usually purchase. They get delivered to your store's auto center (mount, balance, and buy the road hazard) and off you go.
I ordered two sets of four. One for my Taco and one for Ol' Crusty (98 4R). I really only need two for each vehicle for the front but got two sets of four (8 pcs total) so I can set up the rear wheels to track in the same width proportional to the OEM dimensions. ('pop out the front, so may as well pop out the rear'). One inch is my min-max but this company makes all the common thicknesses. I did not experience vibrations or anything unusual. Take your time when you install.
At Wally World, the tech noted that the tire was less than a quarter inch from the upper control arm. Accurately predicted a tiny rub. Why press your luck? Spacers are the solution and trying to keep things as close to stock I started looking for 1.0 inch spacers.
Of course everyone says get Bora or SpiderTrax vs the usual Made in Ch*** unknown alloy spacers. Ama*** was no good the way the AI robots push you to some very questionable imported spacers. Reviews were no consolation and the prices for the 'name brands' are ridiculous. I worked in aerospace machining and prototype manufacturing for over 15 years and have a solid history of actually making things both 'by hand' and 'CAD-CAM / CNC'.
Finally found a very high quality product here in SoCal. I think there's one post somewhere that a member had a bad experience but it worked well for me. It's Custom Wheel Adapters in San Bernardino, CA and for the 3rd Gen, you want the hub-centric with the 106 mm center bore. Conservative 'bare minimum' is the 1-inch and it's perfect. Very high quality materials, excellent machining, and high quality studs and nuts. They arrived three business days after I ordered online. (The picture of the tire interference and the snowflake rims are from an online search for illustration.) Cost to my door is shown below for 8 spacers. Yes, eight spacers, aerospace grade alloy, aerospace grade fasteners, CNC machined, and Made in USA. Americans still make great products, don't let anyone convince you otherwise. No brainer installation. Buy some brake cleaner and non-residue degreaser, some Permatex anti-seize, Loctite. Get out your 21 mm socket, your torque wrench, a 19 mm socket for the nuts on the spacer, and a jack + jackstands.
Also, get a 36-48-inch long steel stake from 'Big Box' construction supplies... you want the basic steel stake used for concrete forms (~1/4 in thick x 1.5 wide). Why? Some people say 'place your car in 4wd to lock the axles' or some such advice. I don't care to stress internals needlessly. 1. After cleaning, placing the antiseize, put the spacer nuts by hand down 1.5 threads and squirt loctite into the nut. 2. Ratchet them down criss cross snugly. 3. To torque down the nuts on the spacer, put three of your OEM lug nuts on the studs of the spacer, equally spaced in a 'triangle'. 4. Slip the steel bar at an angle so one end touches the ground and the other end slips between the two OEM lug nuts. That will keep the hub from rotating and the only stress will be on the two studs holding the torque of the steel bar. 5. For the 87 lbs or so torque of each nut, you'll be fine and you'll have to rotate the hub and remove-replace the steel bar as you do the six nuts. After that , you'll be fine. Just like changing a tire.
Again, just sharing my experience and using online images for reference only.
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