What tool when Cutting 1/16" Brushed Aluminum Laminated on wood?

[D'Animal]

How would you go about cutting cutting 1/16" Brushed Aluminum that is Glued/Laminated wood? What tool would you use.

I have to reduce a free standing display to 1/3 of its original size. An cut the weight below 1/5 of it current weight of 500lbs.

It has a really nice swirl brushed aluminum that is laminated to the main body of the display. The main body is 3/8 cabinet grade plywood on bothe sides and uses a 2x4 for the border.

I was thinking about using my circular saw and mayby a Pirhanan blade installed backwards to cut the aluminum and then move out a 1/16" and cut the rest with the balde on properly.



Any ideas?

 

[FJ60Cam]

I don't know anything about a Pirhanan blade, but I was thinking circular saw too. I'd think that a good carbide blade would slice right through the aluminum, especially if it's tight against the wood.

Is it going to be the finish cut, or is something going to cover it up later? You could make some test swipes on the part you're cutting off.

 

[-Spike-]

Treat it like wood. I cut 1/8th inch aluminum with a standard wood blade in a circular or table saw all the time. A jigsaw or any other wood-type saw will work as well. You can also use a router if you need a finished edge.

Are you sure it's not laminate AKA Formica or Wilson? Either one will cut fine with the same methods. Using a router will guard against chipping and burring, giving you a nice finished edge.

-Spike

 

[D'Animal]

I will load up my woodworking stuff and take it to the office in the morning.

Right now the entire display is 680lb and is 9' tall and takes 4 guys to assemble. The boss wants to be able to fit in in the back of his Dodge Nitro looking mercury product along with the 30" flat screen TV and use it at a show this weekend as a static display.

 

[gladly]

just use a carbide blade, installed normally on the skil saw, as mentioned above

we cut aluminum extrusions with wood blades all the time, and there is no excessive wear on the blade, I would think that 1/16 with plywood would cut just about the same as plain plywood

get a roll of 3" masking tape and lay it down where the sole of the saw will travel to prevent scratches

 

[haystax]

My subfloor has 1/8"aluminum bonded to the 1 1/8" plywood and it was all cut with a circular saw and whatever blades were on sale at the hardware store. We went through a lot of blades and they were pretty much useless after a day's worth of cuts but that could be attributed to the plywood as well.

The tape is a good idea, and aluminum shrapnel stings a bit and seems to get in your clothes worse than sawdust. Sounds like you've got it covered.

 

[D'Animal]

After finding out it is glued to 1" marine grade plywood. I convinced the boss it would be better to jsut buy some aluminum diamond tread adn start over.


I got me some nice brushed Aluminum now. 2 full sheets but they are still glued to 1" maring grade plywood.

 

[-Spike-]

After finding out it is glued to 1" marine grade plywood. I convinced the boss it would be better to jsut buy some aluminum diamond tread adn start over.


I got me some nice brushed Aluminum now. 2 full sheets but they are still glued to 1" maring grade plywood.

Why was the MG ply a bad thing?

-Spike

 

[D'Animal]

Why was the MG ply a bad thing?

-Spike

He wanted this big display modified so he could take it to an event this morning in LA. Time was not on our side. All we had at the office was a 18v cordless 4" circular saw.

 

[stayalert]

what's all this talk of circular saws???good god man out with the CHAINSAW!!!! I'd prolly opt for a bosch jigsaw for the cutting. or throw a rack ontop of the boss's car.

 

[450 DUDE]

I know its too late , but I would have gone Jig aswell.

ken

 

[D'Animal]

I haven't cut it yet.

I made a diferrent display.

 

[-Spike-]

When (if) you do, try several different tools and report back. IME slow-moving steel sucks for aluminum, the aluminum fills the teeth and you end up with a very slow, mangled cut. Fast-moving sharp carbide has always worked best for me, i.e; circular saw for straight cuts, router for curves or very fine edges.

-Spike