been said alreadyView attachment 4149128This 40 is setup perfectly in my mind. It reminds me of the 40’s in high school that the cool kids had!
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been said alreadyView attachment 4149128This 40 is setup perfectly in my mind. It reminds me of the 40’s in high school that the cool kids had!
Changed out the jets in the Fuji carb, made a big difference in power. After getting lucky and removing the first jet with the carb in place, the second time I lost it in the bowl and had to remove the carb to tilt it and recovered the lost jet and washer. Drives much better at speed.
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Sure, it looks absolutely in its element here in the pics! In which State are these pics taken?Got it out the container after a month of being locked up and over the ocean. Went for a short drive let it stretch its legs and then find a little dirt. Looks so much better in its element here than in Hawaii.
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I used the spare set that is in the bowl screws. I think that only the primary one is truly larger diameter. The smaller is better for higher altitudes. I’m at around 400 ft so larger is better. I think its a 147 for the replacement and 136 is what was in there before.What jets did you go with?
If there was a badge for quintessential Landcruiser experience... x1,000 right here.A few months ago I helped out this local couple with picking out a 40, we went to look at this very original 67 and I actually thought it would be good to dissuade them from a pre-75 model, however it had the opposite effect and they completely fell in love with the old school charm and originality and it is perfect for their uses (it’s really the Mrs’s). She has been driving it almost every day and looking for reasons to drive it.
Well there were a few things to correct on it, namely the wiper motors were some generic things with the switches on them. I tracked down some TNK’s from my friend and legend @pardion . Today I went over and we had some zen time getting them installed, reconnecting the original wiper switch and getting everything working.
It was nice to just have fun tinkering on a project with my new friends and no pressure.
Next project is installing the original oil filter housing we got from Mark @65swb45
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Eastern OregonSure, it looks absolutely in its element here in the pics! In which State are these pics taken?
I used the spare set that is in the bowl screws. I think that only the primary one is truly larger diameter. The smaller is better for higher altitudes. I’m at around 400 ft so larger is better. I think it’s a 147 for the replacement and 136 is what was in there before.
Oh man that’s a far walk!!! I’ve seen the size of the mosquitos up in VT. I hope it wasn’t this time of year.@4joggin My very first FJ40 off road experience at 21 was in Lowell, VT. Totally stock, tires and all. Got pushed into the mud on a road that looked exactly like this without the front end engaged. Had to walk back to town about 7 miles to get a tow truck to pull me out. I’ll never forget that (1974)
Hahaha…. Anything in that part of Vt is a far walk! I lived in Montgomery and this was up near Hazens Notch. It was probably April, lucky I guess…just a dumb ass kid, no way out. The front differential was lying flat in the mudOh man that’s a far walk!!! I’ve seen the size of the mosquitos up in VT. I hope it wasn’t this time of year.
There are some spot welds around the bung that will cause copper or steel washers to leak. This is why Toyota have fibre washers that are to be replaced each time.I don't believe that is the issue in my specific case. This engine was taken out, rebuilt and painted and I didn't see any deformation when I was under it. I was reading on another thread that there is a channel in the threads at the bottom. Someone there used a loctite product to get it to seal
This fiber washer on there now has thankfully stopped the leak. My new problem is I overfilled the oil and the syringe/hose I have are too large to fit down the dipstick tube. Looks like I'll be trying the vacuum trick.There are some spot welds around the bung that will cause copper or steel washers to leak. This is why Toyota have fibre washers that are to be replaced each time.
Not to bad on the EPS install just time to set up and make sure everything fits right. I’ve done 2 on the 1971/72 1 piece steering columns but cheated and used the later manual gear box. If you use a universal in place of the rag joint, you can get away with installing column in 1 piece which is huge.For those of you that have done power steering add ons it looks like 60/80 series pumps are the go-to options for those sticking to Toyota. Has anyone done the electric conversion on the steering shaft itself? Looks like a good option from what I'm reading, just more expensive.