What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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RevISK said:
Key point here.
Some of us are shade tree at best, hobbyists as a norm.

The $80 timing light I have, to me, is very useful as I can set (and know) the advance while watching the RPMs.

I’m a professional photographer and will tell you that the best camera is a stripped down 35mm Nikon with no light meter, no auto anything, a 50mm lens and sack of black and white film. However, a weekend warrior who doesn’t innately know the circle of confusion would really benefit from a camera with bells and whistles. It really helps to teach the principles.
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@RevISK and I are not advocating in buying a Snap-On or similar product one might find with professionals, something at Scamazon for 50-80 bucks works for us shade tree, yuppie brew mechanics. My experience and opinion is one that has both timing and tach reading for me is invaluable as several times a year I will check both engine and carb. And, not trying to convince anyone of anything. The setup works for me, and only sharing my experience. Opinions are worth what they cost, nothing.
 
I still have the craftsman inductive timing light I bought in 1983 still works like a champ. Someone gave me a tach/dwell meter many years ago. It lets me set the point very accurately for racing tractors. I have a big vacuum gauge on the dash - I drive with it. Helps with gas milage - there is a point in pedal position where vac drops off big but speed/rpm's doesn't incerease.
 
I guess it all depends on what folks definition of cheap is. Under a $100 for a timing light with an adjustable advance strobe, tach, volt and dwell meter does the trick for me. I check my total advance when setting my timing, along with the initial timing.
The Toyota 6 cylder doesnt have a timing scale so the adjustable strobe tells you your exact timing. I have a lot of old stuff, so I use it quite often to fine tune.
 
I have a very old Snap-On bare bones timing light that I got for $10 a long time ago. All it does is flash. I will say when tuning the carb or timing it’s good to know the rpm of the motor without having to jump down and go look at the dash. I’ve borrowed an adjustable timing light with rpm and it’s sure handy. It just saves time and effort. Still haven’t bought one though … maybe when the Snap-On breaks, if it ever does.
 
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So I checked power to the idle solenoid and it's all 11.85. I have the key on and disconnected the solenoid and reconnected it and I don't hear any clicking? I removed the solenoid and white wired it to the battery with two loose wire and it clicks but there is not a a rod or anything coming out the end. Shouldn't a rod come out?
 
Buffchief said:
So I checked power to the idle solenoid and it's all 11.85. I have the key on and disconnected the solenoid and reconnected it and I don't hear any clicking? I removed the solenoid and white wired it to the battery with two loose wire and it clicks but there is not a a rod or anything coming out the end. Shouldn't a rod come out?
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...HOT wired it.....
 
Buffchief said:
What is the hole in the end for? I read that some do. Maybe a different vehicle.
Thanks.
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What hole? pics might help.
Here's my spare solenoids, maybe '73 or '74ish. They get more complicated later.

20250503_115955.webp
 
Pighead said:
What hole? pics might help.
Here's my spare solenoids, maybe '73 or '74ish. They get more complicated later.

View attachment 3898094
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This hole for the idle solenoid. I thought a rod pushed out. It's not clicking when hooked to power at its connection but does if I connect it to power at the charcoal connection canister for testing.

17463003845285818172885946873550.webp
 
Buffchief said:
This hole for the idle solenoid.
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Oh, that hole. No idea.
But, if you found a way to make it click then try running it while clicked. If that works, you found your problem and you can fix it in another thread...
 
CruiserTrash said:
I have a very old Snap-On bare bones timing light that I got for $10 a long time ago. All it does is flash. I will say when tuning the carb or timing it’s good to know the rpm of the motor without having to jump down and go look at the dash. I’ve borrowed an adjustable timing light with rpm and it’s sure handy. It just saves time and effort. Still haven’t bought one though … maybe when the Snap-On breaks, if it ever does.
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I love old quality tools; I have an ancient Snap-On inch-pound dial torque wrench that I treasure far above its $10 price tag (used).
Also think Buffchief would benefit from the certainty of the visual the timing light offers.
Buffchief: maybe borrow one from a friend or friendly mechanic. Once the timing's set correctly, it will remain so for a good while.
 
Continued on the saga of the 40 pulling to the left while braking.

Readjusted all the wheel cylinders (yes per FSM for the captains obvious out there). No change.
Bled the rears brakes. No change.
Checked the tire pressure. All within +/-1psi of the normal pressure. Though that should have been noticeable when coasting in neutral.
 
charliemeyer007 said:
I still have the craftsman inductive timing light I bought in 1983 still works like a champ
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Im 10 years behind you. 1993 instead of 83.
I recall standing there comparing the two versions(with or without the timing advance feature) trying to justify the, iirc, $10 difference in cost( that 10 bucks was a big deal)...in the end I couldn't. I did recently find one on ebay....and it was like I was standing in that sears tool dept again in 93 when it arrived.
 
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pb4ugo said:
I guess it all depends on what folks definition of cheap is. Under a $100 for a timing light with an adjustable advance strobe, tach, volt and dwell meter does the trick for me. I check my total advance when setting my timing, along with the initial timing.
The Toyota 6 cylder doesnt have a timing scale so the adjustable strobe tells you your exact timing. I have a lot of old stuff, so I use it quite often to fine tune.
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+1 for having dwell built in. Convenient and nice to not have an extra meter hanging around.
 
Buffchief said:
This hole for the idle solenoid. I thought a rod pushed out. It's not clicking when hooked to power at its connection but does if I connect it to power at the charcoal connection canister for testing.

View attachment 3898100
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It grounds to the carb body so when testing plug one end to the harness and tap the solenoid to the block and the rod should click with 12v
 
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