@sleepycruiser
Webers are VERY easy to rebuild and the kits are readily available
Which weber do you have 32/36 or 38?
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What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
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@sleepycruiser
Webers are VERY easy to rebuild and the kits are readily available
Which weber do you have 32/36 or 38?
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
32/36. I’ve watched some videos and it looks mostly straightforward.
RevISK
SILVER Star
I’ve got a 32/36 with most of the rebuild kit and a set of high altitude jets I’m looking to offload.
Need to place an ad but since y’all were talking about it.
Need to place an ad but since y’all were talking about it.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
I just need an overall tuneup I think. Between some idling issues and stalling issues trying to track down any gremlins. I need to do valve adjustments first, etc so just trying to gmfigure it all out.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Something that really helped with my Weber adventure was a fuel filter from an early 80’s jeep (shhh…) like this:
Kept the regular filter, put this between the pump and carb. Made a big difference.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
Thanks for the tip. I need to install the original glass housing filter between the tank and pump. I just installed a new K&N glass housed filter between the pump and carb. The fuel pressure is right at 3 psi which should be where the 32/36 feels good from what I’ve read.
RevISK
SILVER Star
The filter I showed has a pressure return line, seemed to do more for the carb than the PR did. I don’t know, I was throwing whatever I could at it to make it work well. Took me to SAS, all through the mountains and back. Ran well… eventually. Then didn’t. Got tired of fussing with it.
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no manual special / service orders till after the 1st of the year , and or all orders processed ........
but , ...
PM me as the NYE gets closer , i will know better then .....
- below is 2024's Gallery of Control Cables for review ... few they were , but how much passion i have for making them alive once again ....
.
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
Are you having trouble removing the nut or separating the TRE? I used this from HF and it worked like a charm.
3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator
Amazing deals on this 3/4In Ball Joint Separator at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
That looks fabuloso!no manual special / service orders till after the 1st of the year , and or all orders processed ........
but , ...
PM me as the NYE gets closer , i will know better then .....
- below is 2024's Gallery of Control Cables for review ... few they were , but how much passion i have for making them alive once again ....
.
View attachment 3792748View attachment 3792749View attachment 3792750View attachment 3792751
nabbasi
SILVER Star
I was able to separate the tie rods pretty easily with a similar tool (the conical version).Are you having trouble removing the nut or separating the TRE? I used this from HF and it worked like a charm.
3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator
Amazing deals on this 3/4In Ball Joint Separator at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
My issue was not enough fire for the TRE’s. 2 minutes with the torch this morning broke the threads free! I hadn’t had the flame on it but about 30 seconds at a time previously.
The issue with the rivets on the center arm bracket: not enough fire power. 2 minutes with the torch, and about 45 seconds with the air hammer...and got an action shot with the rivet flying off. Thanks for the tips! Hope this helps someone.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
For those who follow my thread know I had a frame crack at the passenger rear spring hanger. @solomrus made a bracket solution inside bracket that fits inside the inner c-channel and outside gusset to strengthen the hanger area. Still stuff to be done (clean - paint - weld - paint etc)...
Also - took the grinder to my Dobinson Springs - rear for now -
Some picts of the carnage and what Rus is thinking of for a kit for others that my be in this bind.
Yellow is what was cut out - red where crack is around the hanger that needed to get patched.
This is the inside bracket - it slide in behind the inner C-Channel that was cut - the area in red is solid behind the hanger adding strength to hanger.
Here is the design for the front gusset to add strength to the overhang of the hanger to strengthen it up..
And with my Dobinsons springs - they got a whack...
Also - took the grinder to my Dobinson Springs - rear for now -
Some picts of the carnage and what Rus is thinking of for a kit for others that my be in this bind.
Yellow is what was cut out - red where crack is around the hanger that needed to get patched.
This is the inside bracket - it slide in behind the inner C-Channel that was cut - the area in red is solid behind the hanger adding strength to hanger.
Here is the design for the front gusset to add strength to the overhang of the hanger to strengthen it up..
And with my Dobinsons springs - they got a whack...
took my head off for Head gasket issues. I pulled apart my valves and found somthing interesting. I think I found why my 2f decided to start drinking oil again. I just replaced all of the valve seals with oem ones. all were seated correctly. two of my valve seals were doing this....
Out of curiosity has this ever happened to you all?
Out of curiosity has this ever happened to you all?
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My valve guides have been leaking for a while; just waiting to get my shop space back before I replace them.
When I had my 2F head refurbished in TN at Headworks of Nashville, they machined my valve guide bosses to take modern LS valve stem seals. It looks amazing and according to the shop guys will stay good for a long time, using readily available parts. I was very happy with this.
I have since sold that engine, and the bottom end began to fail for the new owner, so now that head is on a shelf at the new owner's house in case his replacement engine needs a head in the future.
jhynesrockmtn
SILVER Star
I put a new fan in my rear heater. The PO had wired this with a separate switch so I had to cut the harness on the new unit from City Racer. The old one worked but would often start screeching after 30 seconds or so. I'll take it apart and see if I can clean it up.
I'm sure its serviceable. Take it apart and wash out the bearing/bushing. Use a really good light grease. You might clean up the commutator some while you are there. Be very nice to have a working spare on the shelf.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
There are no projects on the horizon, so to help combat retirement boredom, I created this pressure washer cart for the occasional spa day.
Installed a fresh gear reduction starter in the 45 yesterday; it starts much faster and easier than it has in recent memory. I had not thought that a gear reduction starter would decrease in performance so slowly as to be overlooked. So, I learned something new.