If you mean the exposed portions of the mesh, I’m still acquiring the pieces to close those off so there won’t be any edges exposed. Or do you mean the possibility of an airbag deploying and messing up the whole thing in general?I tried to mirror other commercial vendor options/creations in this, but no one had a solution for just a single side of the third row, hence the custom route.
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (25 Viewers)
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If you mean the exposed portions of the mesh, I’m still acquiring the pieces to close those off so there won’t be any edges exposed. Or do you mean the possibility of an airbag deploying and messing up the whole thing in general?I tried to mirror other commercial vendor options/creations in this, but no one had a solution for just a single side of the third row, hence the custom route.
Just for reference, I had Trekboxx create a semi-custom solution which is similar to what you’ve done. Both my rp3rd row seats are removed but I only wanted a cage on one side. Although it’s a commercial solution, it certainly doesn’t come with any sort of guarantee or warranty related to airbag deployment.
Well yes, the exposed parts would concern me, though I'd think any solid, fixed metal object could be an issue. I'm not familiar enough with how the side airbags deploy (is it one long curtain or are the 2nd and 3rd rows separate?)
@DRCocaCola I like that custom setup. Eventually I want to do a single drawer with a caged area like that to separate my gear from my dog, and also to still be able to retain use of one of the rear seats on occasion.
bloc
SILVER Star
When the third row is stowed I’d expect it to interfere to some extent, and yet toyota designed it that way. Maybe the difference between soft edges of a seat vs hard metal edges of a cage/storage solution should be considered? Or impeding the headliner pushing out so the bag can deploy?
Air bag material is quite tough but we are talking solid rocket booster propellant to fill the things..
Air bag material is quite tough but we are talking solid rocket booster propellant to fill the things..
Markuson
SILVER Star
Markuson
SILVER Star
Funny you mention that...because two days ago, I pulled the ashtray front plate out to see if it’s it’s an easy spot for one also! My problem is I have an extra 3-port Blue Sea.
Or... I might do plan B...and convert one or both of the stock 12v outlets to constant-power...then add a switch to one of them. This would let the ash-tray drawer stay...which I actually use for a couple small items.
Hah! How many USB ports do you now have, total? Including those 8
I am at this moment putting my center stack back together, from such an upgrade. I pulled out the lower cig style power outlet and put in a dual high-speed USB port that also has a voltage meter. I have the head for my Yaesu FT-8800 mounted, and I figured out how to add another USB port just to the right, above the ashtray. It will be constant on, but I'll have a small push button switch just to the right so I can turn if off when not in use. Progress pic:
Try to ignore all the protective blue tape. Battery is still disconnected, so I can't turn anything on right now. Ashtray will be retained. The big red switch to the right of the ashtray is the controller for the Blue Sea ML-ACR under the hood.
Try to ignore all the protective blue tape. Battery is still disconnected, so I can't turn anything on right now. Ashtray will be retained. The big red switch to the right of the ashtray is the controller for the Blue Sea ML-ACR under the hood.
Question: If I disconnect a couple of airbags (removing a couple of seats), is it OK to re-connect the battery? Any risk?
Markuson
SILVER Star
Ha.
Ya I know. Crazy. But I actually USE these items constantly. USB charging is also super efficient. So many devices can charge from USB including some items I’ve recently dumped their AC adapters after discovering the right USB voltage output runs them more efficiently.Inverters running AC/DC adapters are wasteful if you can do DC-DC. Otherwise the inverter plug-ins mean you’re going DC car battery...to AC...only to go back to DC via the adapters. USB keeps them native DC...a win.
Two recent examples: -Just figured out my two O2 Cool ventilation fans can use USB>9V plugs. They market AC adapters to bypass batteries, but that means inverters. Turns out only put out 9V and only .7A Maximum...so...a $5 USB to DC plug handles that easily, with no wasted energy of inverting. This saves me from going through 12 expensive D-Cell batteries every few days of camping use, and draws remarkably little power...usually only 0.2A or maybe 0.4 per fan...less than most phones charge at.
-Also discovered my AC adapted lithium battery chargers do fine on USB instead of their AC plugs...so another win, and no need for inverter.
-Two usb-charged lithium head-lamps are always ready (use/deplete one? Just swap it for the 2nd one that’s always plugged in). I use these constantly even at home.
-Two inexpensive speakers mounted in my hatch are kept topped off...mean I can listen to music/news while fiddling or relaxing in camp or tinkering without having to use the stereo power via start button.
-My bike computer is kept topped of and ready.
-My Warn Remote is kept fully charged.
-My hidden extra phone is kept plugged in...meaning I could actively track my truck if stolen, and the thief wouldn’t know it.
-External ISB ports I can use with truck fully locked shut, or friends can use to charge their phones without access to my interior.
-Garmin InReach can be on 24/7 when camping.
-family of passengers can all charge devices.
These lights are used constantly, and my Warn remote is charged & ready.
Topping off the usefulness is finally finding USB sockets that have a USEFUL power display.
** System voltage is useless and most only show that. BUT...I found a model that actually shows you how much power anyththing plugged in is USING. This is killer because it’s a really good indicator of not only whether it’s more drain than you want to leave on...but also a good indicator of how close various items are to full charge, since nearly all modern UB-charged devices taper their draw as they get close to full charge.
**See rear hatch photo of speakers: Left one topping off left speaker, now down to just .1A, right speaker fully charged, so shows general voltage (which 8 never trust this far from the battery...but a ballpark trend indicator). I use my open hatch as a sort of workbench in my driveway A LOT...so these little speakers are perfect.
Anyway... I know it seems crazy/goofy, but it’s amazing how useful USB options are for either always-plugged stuff and quick access stuff.
PS on power use—Since fully-charged items taper their draw to almost zero once fully charged, leaving them plugged in consumes almost no measurable power, so I’ve discovered my batteries do remarkably well.
Somewhere between 0 and 0.1A! Also have the switches to flip if any concern longer term. Compared to my 24/7 fridge/freezer combo...these outlets are electrical Tiddlywinks.
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Markuson
SILVER Star
It’s Moron Quiz Time! 
OK... note the directional fans.
Guess what’s going on here and why... :-/
OK... note the directional fans.
Guess what’s going on here and why... :-/
Sac Cerevisiae
Reid
Sunroof open while washing the car?
Markuson
SILVER Star
Ding ding ding!
Only a crack...but it was a TON of water. So much that the top of the sun roof shade was COVERED with foam...and water was running out the left front pillar floor. BAD THING.
Lots of wires & harnesses in there.
I think I MAY have escaped serious damage, but it’s never a good thing.
To make matters more annoying...I had forgotten that I had not fully tucked a largish wire when opening up my rear hatch panels. The large-ish wire wedged into the top hatch seal where I couldn’t see it...so I suddenly had water dumping on my rear cargo area edge...then sunroof within 10 seconds of each other. Meanwhile...I’m IN the car wash machine...so gotta ride it out.
x3OK... You welcome...
...since you all feel a little smarter now.
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OuchDing ding ding!
Only a crack...but it was a TON of water. So much that the top of the sun roof shade was COVERED with foam...and water was running out the left front pillar floor. BAD THING.
Lots of wires & harnesses in there.
I think I MAY have escaped serious damage, but it’s never a good thing.
To make matters more annoying...I had forgotten that I had not fully tucked a largish wire when opening up my rear hatch panels. The large-ish wire wedged into the top hatch seal where I couldn’t see it...so I suddenly had water dumping on my rear cargo area edge...then sunroof within 10 seconds of each other. Meanwhile...I’m IN the car wash machine...so gotta ride it out.
OK... You welcome...since you all feel a little smatter now.
Sorry to hear that Mark...I’ve done it too. 
Redarc trailer brake controller installed last week. I had a Tekonsha Primus IQ But I hated reaching down under the dash to adjust it. Really love the easy to access knob. Also I found the redarc does a much better job of releasing the brakes a bit when coming to a stop, which results in less jerking. Looking forward to more use on the long trip out to CO soon
If anyone is interested in my old Primus IQ controller with Toyota wiring harness PM me.
If anyone is interested in my old Primus IQ controller with Toyota wiring harness PM me.
