What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?

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jht3 said:
a few things have popped up in the last week. when it rains it pours!
  1. ABS code 51, so something wrong w/ the pump/actuator. looks like a real blast to take apart to check the internals and clean up any corrosion, but will figure that out when time allows. new pump is $$$, and no i'm not deleting ABS. buying a used pump seems like high risk.
  2. bouncing speedometer. both the one in the cluster AND ultragauge coming from the OBDII port, so that points to something up with the VSS. i do have a Lutz speed corrector installed. last night i turned on the ign but didn't start, and the speedo swept from 0->max->0. odd. i disconnected it all, and pulled the VSS out. it looks original and has a Toyota sticker on it. i didn't see anything wrong w/ the keyed shaft and it spun fine. i was unable to test it like the FSM calls out as my alligator clips are all too large to clip to the pins. one thing to note; there was gear oil trapped on the VSS side of the shaft. should the seal allow some gear oil past, or should it be bone dry? in 2021 i pulled it from the t-case and replaced the o-ring b/c it was leaking externally but don't recall replacing the inner shaft seal
  3. no start. turning the key to start will do nothing. all i hear are the footwell relays click and the dash fan spin up. not sure about the starter clicking. all cluster lights on like they should be (check, brake, a/t oil temp, etc), just nothing from the starter. i used to get this very sporadically, but rebuilt the solenoid in 2022 and its been perfect ever since. replaced the fusible links and all battery cables upgraded too. the last two days its much worse than back then, and the only way to get the truck to start when hot or warm is rack back and forth on the shifter and try again. never had to do this before. once it starts, i can cycle the ignition and it continues to start just like normal. last night i unplugged the NSS connector and shot it with electric contact cleaner. pins were full of something like white lithium grease. i did not de-pin anything but a quick visual check passed. i have a new ignition switch on the shelf, and looking at adding in a starter relay.
open to any suggestions, especially #2 and #3. i don't think any of these are related. just bad timing/luck?!?!
Click to expand...
Probably need to lube your spedometer cable. Check for corrosion on your battery terminals or test the srarter for the no srart by jumping it.
 
Rear axles. Flange dowels installed. Didn’t use the included drill bit on advice from a great cruiser mechanic. Used drill size “N”. Put pins in freezer for a day. They pressed in tight, but not too tight. ARP studs.
New rotors and pads to finish it off.

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Extending diff vents and trimming rear wheelwells today…
 
jht3 said:
a few things have popped up in the last week. when it rains it pours!
  1. ABS code 51, so something wrong w/ the pump/actuator. looks like a real blast to take apart to check the internals and clean up any corrosion, but will figure that out when time allows. new pump is $$$, and no i'm not deleting ABS. buying a used pump seems like high risk.
  2. bouncing speedometer. both the one in the cluster AND ultragauge coming from the OBDII port, so that points to something up with the VSS. i do have a Lutz speed corrector installed. last night i turned on the ign but didn't start, and the speedo swept from 0->max->0. odd. i disconnected it all, and pulled the VSS out. it looks original and has a Toyota sticker on it. i didn't see anything wrong w/ the keyed shaft and it spun fine. i was unable to test it like the FSM calls out as my alligator clips are all too large to clip to the pins. one thing to note; there was gear oil trapped on the VSS side of the shaft. should the seal allow some gear oil past, or should it be bone dry? in 2021 i pulled it from the t-case and replaced the o-ring b/c it was leaking externally but don't recall replacing the inner shaft seal
  3. no start. turning the key to start will do nothing. all i hear are the footwell relays click and the dash fan spin up. not sure about the starter clicking. all cluster lights on like they should be (check, brake, a/t oil temp, etc), just nothing from the starter. i used to get this very sporadically, but rebuilt the solenoid in 2022 and its been perfect ever since. replaced the fusible links and all battery cables upgraded too. the last two days its much worse than back then, and the only way to get the truck to start when hot or warm is rack back and forth on the shifter and try again. never had to do this before. once it starts, i can cycle the ignition and it continues to start just like normal. last night i unplugged the NSS connector and shot it with electric contact cleaner. pins were full of something like white lithium grease. i did not de-pin anything but a quick visual check passed. i have a new ignition switch on the shelf, and looking at adding in a starter relay.
open to any suggestions, especially #2 and #3. i don't think any of these are related. just bad timing/luck?!?!
Click to expand...

spent this am wrenching on the wife's X5; oil change and front pads

after lunch i took the cruiser to recycle the oil. speedo is working perfectly. cruiser started every time, with lots of heat soak, etc

so not sure what is going on, but by touching everything it appears solved at this time. abs light is still on but haven't looked at that yet.
 
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SKULLGRINDER said:
Rig is killer dude. Mind posting a pic of the inside set up? Looks roomy
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Folks have been doing this same set up. I just added an Iceco fridge at my feet instead of a longer storage box.
I placed my 2kwh power station inside the wooden box that I made under $50. Im still able to utilize the 2nd row seat if needed with the storage box inside.
Picture is with and without the Iceco fridge

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Spent last night camping in La Sal. Campsite was over 8000ft.
IMG-20260801-WA0040.webp

All the cooling system components on the truck are less than 2 years old but i was still seeing high temps. Might be time for a flush and some fresh coolant.

Today we took a spin round Imogen Pass. I always thought it was just a high altitude dirt road that a regular stock Subaru could manage so was quite surprised what i came across. Fantastic day.
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At the summit I parked up for a bit and could hear the gas in the tank boiling. I loosened the cap and let it vent. It took over 10 minutes for the pressure to equalize. I was surprised by this as i have the modded charcoal gas canister so i guess i need to look at that also when i get home.
 
Irish Reiver said:
Spent last night camping in La Sal. Campsite was over 8000ft.
View attachment 4187382
All the cooling system components on the truck are less than 2 years old but i was still seeing high temps. Might be time for a flush and some fresh coolant.

Today we took a spin round Imogen Pass. I always thought it was just a high altitude dirt road that a regular stock Subaru could manage so was quite surprised what i came across. Fantastic day.
View attachment 4187393
At the summit I parked up for a bit and could hear the gas in the tank boiling. I loosened the cap and let it vent. It took over 10 minutes for the pressure to equalize. I was surprised by this as i have the modded charcoal gas canister so i guess i need to look at that also when i get home.
Click to expand...
Was it an aftermarket mod or the LCP mod? I did the LCP mod route.

Did you drill out the BB in the canister? I was at 9600 elevation today with outside temperature of 96 and no hissing when I added 5gal of jerry can.
Once you mod, the charcoal still need replacing after years of use.
 
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Irish Reiver said:
At the summit I parked up for a bit and could hear the gas in the tank boiling. I loosened the cap and let it vent. It took over 10 minutes for the pressure to equalize. I was surprised by this as i have the modded charcoal gas canister so i guess i need to look at that also when i get home.
Click to expand...
I've done the LCP mod, also and my tanks have similar pressure buildup. My fix is to not tighten the gas cap. I believe that my aux tank adds too much for the fuel venting system, also the gasohol quality of the fuel today exasperates the situation. I would do the same, at least until you get to lower altitudes or you take the chance of rupturing your tank. I know this sounds like a "bailing wire" fix, but to choose between a cracked fuel tank or fuel smell near the tank, I'll choose the latter.
 
efjayatee said:
Was it an aftermarket mod or the LCP mod? I did the LCP mod route.

Did you drill out the BB in the canister? I was at 9600 elevation today with outside temperature of 96 and no hissing when I added 5gal of jerry can.
Once you mod, the charcoal still need replacing after years of use.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I did the LCP mod and drilled the BB. I also replaced the charcoal. I just ordered another box of charcoal so it is ready when I get back.
 
efjayatee said:
Awesome! Stage 1? Any future plans to A750f swap?
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Yeah stage 1. But we’ll call it 1.5 with the intercooler 😎
Man I’d love to but not anytime soon. We’ll see how long this trans lasts. It’s got about 250k on it. I have another spare 343 in the garage.
Been seeing some 200 series 6 speed swaps and bmw 8 speed swaps overseas as well. Hopefully in a few years it’s a more available swap.
 
Ecliff5 said:
Yeah stage 1. But we’ll call it 1.5 with the intercooler 😎
Man I’d love to but not anytime soon. We’ll see how long this trans lasts. It’s got about 250k on it. I have another spare 343 in the garage.
Been seeing some 200 series 6 speed swaps and bmw 8 speed swaps overseas as well. Hopefully in a few years it’s a more available swap.
Click to expand...
Getting the Stage 1.5 + A750 swap currently at C&C on my 97 40th.
I'm saving my 93 stage2 for other tranny options hopefully available in the future aswell.... (also hoping for an 8hp swap to be available.)😎
 
efjayatee said:
Getting the Stage 1.5 + A750 swap currently at C&C on my 97 40th.
I'm saving my 93 stage2 for other tranny options hopefully available in the future aswell.... (also hoping for an 8hp swap to be available.)😎
Click to expand...
You’ll need a 3rd 80 with 2 turbos next…
 
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