What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?
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? Huh?
hisandhers80s
SILVER Star
Got the radiator, fan clutch, and shroud back in the truck and the last few hoses hooked up and clamped down. Also, got the alternator belts on and got them tightened up. I was also able to modify the Holley Retro Bright head lights and get them installed in the headlight buckets. Tomorrow need to get the cruise, kick down, and accelerator cables adjusted, get the air box, AFM, and hose connected, install the battery and battery box, then start filling everything with fluids. Need to fill engine with oil, fill transmission and power steering, and add radiator fluid then pressure test to see if I have any leaks. Once I do a final look over really good, it might just be time to get the oil pressure up on the engine, and see if it will start!
thank you very much all for the solution. I took off the black plugs from the side rocker panel and some remaining water dripped off. But now I am cautious what caused the water to get there? Should I leave the plugs off or put them back in again?
I would say its a good starting point to rip off all the floor, clean it and put alubutyl on it. So I will write here very soon about my progress. Wish you all a nice week.
I would say its a good starting point to rip off all the floor, clean it and put alubutyl on it. So I will write here very soon about my progress. Wish you all a nice week.
Water getting in there is by design. Being trapped is not. Personally, I leave the rubber plugs out at all times. I live in a place with torrential rain though.
Looking good and your doing a fantastic job !Got the radiator, fan clutch, and shroud back in the truck and the last few hoses hooked up and clamped down. Also, got the alternator belts on and got them tightened up. I was also able to modify the Holley Retro Bright head lights and get them installed in the headlight buckets. Tomorrow need to get the cruise, kick down, and accelerator cables adjusted, get the air box, AFM, and hose connected, install the battery and battery box, then start filling everything with fluids. Need to fill engine with oil, fill transmission and power steering, and add radiator fluid then pressure test to see if I have any leaks. Once I do a final look over really good, it might just be time to get the oil pressure up on the engine, and see if it will start!
But this wouldn't be mud if we couldn't nick pick a little bit
2nd picture I run the same constant torque type hose clamps and it hard to get the right size( I had to order twice
to get the right ones ) the overly long clamps just don't look right and don't go with the quality of your build ! Like wise with cutting the hose for your temperature gauge. It adds two potential failure points and looks like what it is added on.
The aluminum tube coming off the head has that flat boss on it that looks like it was made for a temp sensor and is easy to tap for a OEM look and function.
Keep up the good work excited for the first start !!
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Like others had mentioned (in the write ups), the water is deliberately channeled through a passage in the sunroof. It flows from the sunroof along the pillars and drains at the botton ofthe rockers. When the channels are clogged it floods the interior. It leaks at the foot well or at the side panels of either sides. If the rocker panel (slits) are clogged, the water will collect until it has no where to go but up into the interior. It happens during heavy rain or even through a car wash.
I had left my plugs off for years and had driven few water crossings w/out issues. Just don't be in knee deep water while idling.
Assuming yours is an obd1 since your tapping into your rad hose for your ECT sensor. I did the same and hadn't had any leaks from them clamps.Looking good and your doing a fantastic job !
But this wouldn't be mud if we couldn't nick pick a little bit
( I had to order twice
Like wise with cutting the hose for your temperature gauge. It adds two potential failure points and looks like what it is added on.
The aluminum tube coming off the head has that flat boss on it that looks like it was made for a temp sensor and is easy to tap for a OEM look and function.
View attachment 4141364
View attachment 4141365
Keep up the good work excited for the first start !!
Another option is to get your hands on Toyobd1 that is basically a scan gauge (just like for the OBD2) and you can read its ECT through an android app.....instead of putting a sensor between your rad hose.
I have had three of them, the first two failed, but I didn’t like them anyway as I use my tablet for mapping
and connectivity was always finicky.Maybe the newer ones are better.
I much prefer my gauge coming on automatically when I start the car !
Sure you can tap into the hose without leaks but IMO it adds two more potential failure points.
And I prefer the clean ORM look
Well this morning I tackled the front sway bar since I had all the parts. I can definitely tell a difference and man the old stuff was definitely ready to go. Waiting on the rear bushings for the bar to frame mount and those will be done.
I was going to move to the suspension bushings but I think I need to address the power steering pump since it's starting to whine on full lock.
Oh and the dang sunroof motor died so that was a pain and a half to get closed. I trashed it pretty good trying to manually close it so I ordered a new one and new trim from Japan since mine were cracked.
I was going to move to the suspension bushings but I think I need to address the power steering pump since it's starting to whine on full lock.
Oh and the dang sunroof motor died so that was a pain and a half to get closed. I trashed it pretty good trying to manually close it so I ordered a new one and new trim from Japan since mine were cracked.
@Broski -yes....it has risk
This was a $40 tablet sale from Walmart. You can use an old phone aswell. The newer toyobd1, the doggle; you can route it inside the cab (glove comp)-Connectivity improves.
This is the easiest way ($65) to read your ECT without tapping into the output pipe or cutting into the hose.
***I religiously check on the clamps and the ECT sensor assembly before big trips.
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I guess its too late but you could've reached out to Campteq. He has MANY used sunroof assemblies and trims of various colors.
Ordered a whole sale autos valve body for it.
I have it in my 93 turbo. I like it and It's preventing me from doing a A750f because of it.
My 91 is a full hydro and if it dies it's getting a manual. But I need to replace the shift selector rod and the vb has to come out, and I've wanted to do a vb for years.
hisandhers80s
SILVER Star
Well, @CrabCake, you were right! I have some wrinkles to iron out, but it started! I found pretty quickly, that I had not tightened the feed lines coming out of the top of the steering box. Then I found that I had forgotten to connect the hoses coming from the transmission to the oil cooler, and got a nice spatter of ATF all over the wall. Next, it will idle normal, for 30-45 seconds, then the RPMs go straight up, the engine backfires and it shuts down on its own. The last thing I noticed is that once i connect the battery and turn the key, I can no longer turn the key tp the off position and take the key out. Only when I disconnect the battery will the key turn to off, and come out of the cylinder. Looks like tomorrow I have a lot of research to do to figure out what is going on and how to correct it.
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hisandhers80s
SILVER Star
Now the engine is surging, seem to possibly have a misfire or cylinder not firing, a strange whining noise, and the engine is surging.
COS80
SILVER Star
I have seen coolant staining on the top of the radiator, especially after long trail days, so this weekend I did some pressure testing. I was using cap pressure (13psi), which the system held for over an hour before losing about a half a psi and a few drops of coolant through a known failing hose (the bypass hose at the thermostat). The upper radiator hose is another known leaker, and explains the DS staining on top of the radiator, although it did not leak under testing.
Using the cap tester in the kit, I confirmed my rad cap is shot - it doesn't hold any pressure. I think this confirms the PS side staining on top of the rad, and that the radiator doesn't have a problem. I'm surprised the cap doesn't leak more than it does.
I'm going to replace all hoses and clamps, as well as the cap and the T-stat. Anything else I ought to address while I'm at it?
Here's something I don't get: the FSM says to test the system warm. Wouldn't this lead to hot coolant filling and maybe even leaking out of the tester? Also, why 17psi?
Using the cap tester in the kit, I confirmed my rad cap is shot - it doesn't hold any pressure. I think this confirms the PS side staining on top of the rad, and that the radiator doesn't have a problem. I'm surprised the cap doesn't leak more than it does.
I'm going to replace all hoses and clamps, as well as the cap and the T-stat. Anything else I ought to address while I'm at it?
Here's something I don't get: the FSM says to test the system warm. Wouldn't this lead to hot coolant filling and maybe even leaking out of the tester? Also, why 17psi?
FSM said: