What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?

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Changed coil today, Changed oil last Friday 190, 856, broke top of coil when I went to disconnect coil wire to get better access to oil filter. Luckily new one came mounted to bracket and only needed to remove one bolt to remove white thing. The screws holding the old one the bracket were rusted and weren't going to come off without stripping...
 
Goin' down the checklist:
Yesterday, installed OME caster correction bushings. Went well but a bit of a pain in the rear.

Today, flushed power steering fluid, changed oil, greased the zerks, and new wiper blades (and fluid)!
 
Got out and washed it, life hasn’t let me really get out in it much except to drive it to work every now and then. Still amazed at how much power the LS has and how much fun it is to drive
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So as Captain Quint from Jaws said “Here’s to Swimming with Bowlegged Women!” Of and :beer: to the best, most knowledgeable (my opinion at least), and most patient teacher out there @Malleus. He spend half the day exchanging texts, pictures, and probably close to two hours on the phone helping me track down these issues.

This is going to be long and two parts so here it goes.

I had two obvious problems from my first start and the few starts there after. This first problem was that my key would not turn to the off position when the battery was connected but turned and came right out when I disconnected the battery. The second problem is there is a strange misfire, and immediately I am thinking related to the injectors. More on this one in the second post. So, we started with the key and ignition issue because I really did not want to keep hooking and unhooking the battery. That means I needed to pull the dash to check the key interlock solenoid. Once the dash was apart, I was able to test the solenoid and I was getting inside the range (17 ohms) on the resistance. Next, I grabbed a 12 volt battery I had from my deer trail cameras and some alligator clips and tested the operation by applying power across the two pins in the connector. The solenoid clicked as expected. We can now eliminate that as the problem.

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Next, I decided to test the shift lock solenoid which is under the shifter, so the shift console had to come out. I did not get a resistance inside that range, but when I applied 12v power to the two pins, it operated as expected. I tested this solenoid because I can take the shifter from park to L and back without every hitting the shifter button on the side of the shifter. So I may need a shift interlock solenoid.

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Next I moved into checking that I had resistance from the key interlock solenoid to the wires that came to the shifter for the computer shift lock control module. I did get continuity as expected on both wires that I needed to test. Next we pulled the cover off the shifter lock module. I pulled the circuit board out and after a good inspection, I found the diode D12 was burnt. So, I also need a shifter lock module. So, if I leave the key interlock solenoid unplugged, I can still remove the key and not have to keep unhooking the battery while I get the rest figured out and get parts ordered.

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Also, I had a Center Diff Lock button sitting on the shelf, so I changed it out with the button that was there, but had Diff written on it with a printed label. And I pulled a ton of useless and unused wires out from under the dash while I was in there.

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Moving on to the misfire. And I ran out of room in the last post, so the picture of pile of wires will be at the end of this post.

So we took a look at the EWD and it said to test to verify no voltage on each wire for each injector across harness plug A at the ECM. Then after that verify that you are getting voltage across each injector wire at the same location when connected to ground. So I rotated the glove box out of the way, and unscrewed the ECM so I could access plug A and as soon as I got my light in the right place and started checking for each injector wire coming out of the harness plug, I noticed that there is not a wire in the harness at all for injector #5 (#50 on the plug diagram). So in theory, I should be able to run a wire from the plug connector to the #5 injector and run a ground wire or verify the ground wire in the harness is good, and that should solve the misfire!

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efjayatee said:
@Broski -yes....it has risk

This was a $40 tablet sale from Walmart. You can use an old phone aswell. The newer toyobd1, the doggle; you can route it inside the cab (glove comp)-Connectivity improves.
This is the easiest way ($65) to read your ECT without tapping into the output pipe or cutting into the hose.

***I religiously check on the clamps and the ECT sensor assembly before big trips.😎
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maybe dumb question, but how do you route the cable for the toyobd1 to the glove compartment? I couldn't see where the pass through daylighted when I opened my glove box..
 
ClubEllis said:
maybe dumb question, but how do you route the cable for the toyobd1 to the glove compartment? I couldn't see where the pass through daylighted when I opened my glove box..
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Mine came with just the wires from the blue box and then spec'd the proper connector to get off of eBay and solder together after passing through one of the big grommets near the port. It's a tight fit, but can be done with a little patience and lube!
 
CrabCake said:
Mine came with just the wires from the blue box and then spec'd the proper connector to get off of eBay and solder together after passing through one of the big grommets near the port. It's a tight fit, but can be done with a little patience and lube!
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Everything fits, with a little lube ;)
 
Changed out the throttle cable (TV) on my '95 which had some rather harsh gear engagements. Since the throttle cable for the A343F is no longer available I took a gamble on the cable for the A440 which is still available from Toyota. The replacement is shorter by a few inches but the supercharger on my '95 means the throttle body orientated in a way that suits the shorter cable.

Also, now that kiddo #2 has finished high school I replaced the snorkel guard on the '96 with the proper one. Wife didn't think this was appropriate for a school aged girl to have on the truck.:meh:
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installed the complete lift kit from delta/icon yesterday. Anyone running remote resi shocks in the rear have some insight as to where is a good clean mounting place to locate the reservoirs?
I temped mine here with some good ol zip ties
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New ring and pinion, again.
This needs to hold up till winter, so I can start my custom front axle install.
This time I paid @Cruisers and Co to rebuild it vs me doing it.
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Broski said:
Looking good and your doing a fantastic job !
But this wouldn't be mud if we couldn't nick pick a little bit 😁 2nd picture I run the same constant torque type hose clamps and it hard to get the right size
( I had to order twice 🤪 to get the right ones ) the overly long clamps just don't look right and don't go with the quality of your build !
Like wise with cutting the hose for your temperature gauge. It adds two potential failure points and looks like what it is added on.
The aluminum tube coming off the head has that flat boss on it that looks like it was made for a temp sensor and is easy to tap for a OEM look and function.
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Keep up the good work excited for the first start !!😎
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@Broski I hate it when you are right, and it costs me more money... Just kidding. I was thinking the same thing after I got it installed. It just looked cluttered and clunky. I was afraid of tapping the pipe with my skill set early on in this process, but I think I can certainly tackle this now. I just ordered a new radiator pipe #1 and a new gasket for the water outlet pipe. Now I just need to figure out what size bit and tap I need and make sure I have it.
 
Put in a cheap $100 pioneer backup cam. Pretty fish-eyed and no backup lines. There are $59 ones that have the lines. That’s what I get for using AI reviews, but it will get the job done. It was supposed to be very tough and have good night vision. I guess we will see. I assumed it would have the lines as almost all of them do- bad on me for assuming ! Ignore my leak stains. Down to one and pretty sure it is rear main seal and plan to do within the month.

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Knuckle job on a 105 over the weekend, thought the 80 crew might be interested to see the front end of a 105. (spoiler alert, it's not much different to an 80)
Terrain tamer kit, rotors, fortified pads and calipers, and superior engineering drag link and tie rod.

Sorry about the dirty floor too:rolleyes:

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Fabbed an enclosure for my house battery & charger. It bolts to the seat mount as well as cargo tie down mounting holes. Lives on passenger side right behind the fridge (not present in pics). Disregard the cable routing, that is temporary and will be cleaned up once I have the correct length cables. Also don't look too close at my welds. :cool: I won't win any beauty contests but they are sound.
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Rdonahe said:
Fabbed an enclosure for my house battery & charger. It bolts to the seat mount as well as cargo tie down mounting holes. Lives on passenger side right behind the fridge (not present in pics). Disregard the cable routing, that is temporary and will be cleaned up once I have the correct length cables. Also don't look too close at my welds. :cool: I won't win any beauty contests but they are sound.
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About as non structural as you can get for a welding project, these will hold up just fine for this!
 
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