No choice but ate the cost...unless you can find one from a junkyard dismantler. The shipping was quick. Ordered Friday and arrived Tues.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?
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No choice but ate the cost...unless you can find one from a junkyard dismantler. The shipping was quick. Ordered Friday and arrived Tues.
CrabCake
SILVER Star
Same situation here on the trans...that said, I do have a $700 core front diff with munched gears that I need to see if @cruiseroutfit is still interested to have back after sending out theirs with new gears & ARB locker.
And @efjayatee ... I'm sure that you know this too, but for those that are just getting into the game ~ I've learned over the years that the spouses are not as clueless as we assume they are...
hisandhers80s
SILVER Star
My rig does not have factory lockers. I did put in 4.88 gears and ARB air lockers front and rear. I have also swapped out the transfer case and the noise continued. I does not happen with the rear drive shaft out.
How? Dealership route?
Key is from dealership. Just had them order one and then cut it when it came in. No programming necessary. The fob works with my factory keyless. Off eBay. I have a 96 LX and have gotten 2 off these and followed their instructions to program. Work perfectly.
Went deep into the bowels to replace the valve stem seals since I was burning about 2 quarts every oil change and had some smoke on startup. Naturally going that far down the rabbit hole required the full gambit of "while I'm in there" parts (distributor goodies done last week).
New spark plug tube seals, spark plugs, plug wires, valve cover gasket, throttle body gasket, coolant hoses that are impossible to reach on the throttle body, PCV was also leaking, so new hoses with it. Someone was definitely in there at some point who knows how long ago since the throttle body was missing one of the bottom bolts, the valve cover has one random 8mm bolt head and missing another bolt. The half moons had this weird white opaque sealant that maybe was green before being oxidized since the underside of the moons had a green looking sealant.
The real fun was the valve stem seals. I couldn't have imagined how difficult it would to pry those things out, even using the recommend tool from several other threads. Hands became all sorts of bruised from raw, brute strength of gripping the removal tool and then violently hitting the hood several times once they broke free after much twisting and shaking.
Didn't get many photos since I was on a time crunch to get back on the road and each valve seal taking upwards of 15-20 mins to remove. But happy to say everything cranked over first time, such a big relief! Got a lot of tips for anyone (especially those over 6') if you decide to tackle this job. Think this closes the chapter on common oil leaks/loses for a while (oil pump/crank seal done a while ago).
A few photos to appease the audience. Sadly I didn't get the one where I laid everything out on a long piece of covered particle board, bolts labeled in sandwich baggies, cams on their respective sides, all in order of removal which made putting things back together a lot easier. And yes, the valve cover got a lovely cleaning along with the distributor timing gear.
New spark plug tube seals, spark plugs, plug wires, valve cover gasket, throttle body gasket, coolant hoses that are impossible to reach on the throttle body, PCV was also leaking, so new hoses with it. Someone was definitely in there at some point who knows how long ago since the throttle body was missing one of the bottom bolts, the valve cover has one random 8mm bolt head and missing another bolt. The half moons had this weird white opaque sealant that maybe was green before being oxidized since the underside of the moons had a green looking sealant.
The real fun was the valve stem seals. I couldn't have imagined how difficult it would to pry those things out, even using the recommend tool from several other threads. Hands became all sorts of bruised from raw, brute strength of gripping the removal tool and then violently hitting the hood several times once they broke free after much twisting and shaking.
Didn't get many photos since I was on a time crunch to get back on the road and each valve seal taking upwards of 15-20 mins to remove. But happy to say everything cranked over first time, such a big relief! Got a lot of tips for anyone (especially those over 6') if you decide to tackle this job. Think this closes the chapter on common oil leaks/loses for a while (oil pump/crank seal done a while ago).
A few photos to appease the audience. Sadly I didn't get the one where I laid everything out on a long piece of covered particle board, bolts labeled in sandwich baggies, cams on their respective sides, all in order of removal which made putting things back together a lot easier. And yes, the valve cover got a lovely cleaning along with the distributor timing gear.
After confirming I am leak free for the first time since I bought the truck 7 months ago after rear main seal and front pump seal replace- I degreased the undercarriage as best I could. This is a big day with no leaks after having major coolant, power steering and multiple oil leaks.
I am sure my huge coating of oil that had been on there for years helped !You should go right back and RE-grease that!!! Free rust preventative.
I do plan to Woolwax it this fall and keep up with that in years to come.
CrabCake
SILVER Star
And it looks like you have a torn bushing coming out of the top of your steering stabilizer...could be clunky because of that. Nice work on your rig though, it definitely got a new lease on life when you bought it...color change is a winner too....love it!I am sure my huge coating of oil that had been on there for years helped !
Thanks for the heads up. I was considering replacing the stabilizer with an OME.
I did a parking lot repair of my drivers window. Pushed the button to lower the window to show my id and the whole assembly fell into the door. It even somehow release the door latch and the gate guard thought it was "go time" for a brief second. 
Took about an hour to R&R the window and track (luckily the window didn't break when it fell but the tint did get scratched pretty good). Will be ordering a new window gasket since the one in there is very stiff and not pliable - I think this is my root cause.
Took about an hour to R&R the window and track (luckily the window didn't break when it fell but the tint did get scratched pretty good). Will be ordering a new window gasket since the one in there is very stiff and not pliable - I think this is my root cause.
slee rock sliders and full belly skid installed by YotaWorks in Washington, IL Transmission fully flushed before that was done (22 qts); also posted elsewhere on the shaky mirrors fix, solvefunction helped, but required more extensive surgery.
have a spare cross member now that is under the transfer case (where the new skid plate is).
my 96 didn't come with fob's is that a standard feature and I can just order a fob and program it there?
Wow, I had no idea they held so much fluid. My drain and fill 5 years ago was around a gallon.
yeah drain and fill is 6L ; then if you unhook the return line on the transmission radiator (near the right headlight), and pump out a quart at a time by turning the car on for 11 seconds, then off... put in another quart. took forever, but I got all the old transmission fluid out that way.
EDIT: like this -
If you have the VIP RS3000 alarm that was port installed. Look for a small black box under your driver's seat.
Been there,I did a parking lot repair of my drivers window. Pushed the button to lower the window to show my id and the whole assembly fell into the door. It even somehow release the door latch and the gate guard thought it was "go time" for a brief second.
Took about an hour to R&R the window and track (luckily the window didn't break when it fell but the tint did get scratched pretty good). Will be ordering a new window gasket since the one in there is very stiff and not pliable - I think this is my root cause.
I already hate doing any door related work, let alone in a parking lot