Was looking on my laptop for a picture for my daughter's show choir and came across this. Definitely a top 5 GOAT post on Mud. Shout out to @zona. Classic!
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A year later and I still remember that post. That's a classic.
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Was looking on my laptop for a picture for my daughter's show choir and came across this. Definitely a top 5 GOAT post on Mud. Shout out to @zona. Classic!
View attachment 1345537
Over the last few weeks I started to have intermittent no starts. I would turn the key and get a click but nothing else. After 3-7 tries it would finally turn over and start. Replacing my power and ground cables was already on my radar so I went ahead and replaced the cables from the battery to the starter and the battery to engine ground with #1 welding cable. So far it starts every time without hesitation.
View attachment 1345737
No crimping, just solder. There are various opinions about this but a lot of racing forums said just soldering is fine. Time will tell. I still need to do the alternator cable but wasn't 100% sure where it ran after going into the loom. I think it connects to the fusible link???
While moving things out of my way I noticed this.
View attachment 1345739 View attachment 1345738
I wire brushed it the best I could and scraped out what I could from the ignition coil. Added some dielectric grease and plugged it back in. Can I buy a replacement cable or do I need to buy the whole set? Also figured out my FR wheel is loose from 12-6. Time to check the bearings... Also ordered some Philips HIR bulbs.
Over the last few weeks I started to have intermittent no starts. I would turn the key and get a click but nothing else. After 3-7 tries it would finally turn over and start. Replacing my power and ground cables was already on my radar so I went ahead and replaced the cables from the battery to the starter and the battery to engine ground with #1 welding cable. So far it starts every time without hesitation.
View attachment 1345737
No crimping, just solder. There are various opinions about this but a lot of racing forums said just soldering is fine. Time will tell. I still need to do the alternator cable but wasn't 100% sure where it ran after going into the loom. I think it connects to the fusible link???
While moving things out of my way I noticed this.
View attachment 1345739 View attachment 1345738
I wire brushed it the best I could and scraped out what I could from the ignition coil. Added some dielectric grease and plugged it back in. Can I buy a replacement cable or do I need to buy the whole set? Also figured out my FR wheel is loose from 12-6. Time to check the bearings... Also ordered some Philips HIR bulbs.
Whole set. Its in your best interest to do all anyway.
Don't jinx me! I haven't pulled the cap off in a while...At least he can probably rule out needing a new distributor since he doesn't have oil in the cap!
Don't jinx me! I haven't pulled the cap off in a while...
What model is this exactly?Not the weekend but soon will be......So replaced my center console with this freezer a while back - Got to say am pretty impressed with its capacity.
Few buddies and I heading out on week long adventure soon....
To give an idea of volume - That's 10 chicken drumsticks, 12 lamb cutlets, 2lb salmon, 2lb ribeye, 1lb mince, 1lb carne, 4 burgers - all now being frozen
View attachment 1346041
Voila!
View attachment 1346042
Not the weekend but soon will be......So replaced my center console with this freezer a while back - Got to say am pretty impressed with its capacity.
Few buddies and I heading out on week long adventure soon....
To give an idea of volume - That's 10 chicken drumsticks, 12 lamb cutlets, 2lb salmon, 2lb ribeye, 1lb mince, 1lb carne, 4 burgers - all now being frozen
View attachment 1346041
Voila!
View attachment 1346042
Can we see it in position in yer 80?
Mudder came by needing help. He needed his timing to be 3* so he can get it smogged. 5 mins later and was good to go. But he was complaining about his PO170. I told him it's always vacuum related so just check all of the vacuum hoses and replace one by one. He then says his exhaust smells different lately...sweeter.
"For your sake I hope not!"
He starts the truck and I do a quick visual check. It's fine. Nothing obvious and the exhaust just smells less like unburned fuel. Then he drops the last tigbit of info:
"The CEL only goes on when I have to brake hard."
*Eureka moment*
I said, "it's a leaking check valve, booster or hose". Quick check and yup, there was a long horizontal tear in the hose after the clamp coming from the intake on its way to the booster. Everytime he brakes hard the motor shifts forward. Forward enough to pull on the hose and cause the vacuum leak.
Problem was though I didn't have a spare booster hose. Cutting his hose to remove the split made it too short and useless. As it turned out the smaller power steering hose I carry is not only the same I.D. but the exact same length. Bam! He now has an emergency hose as a spare when he replaces it finally.
Oh and CEL is gone![]()
What model is this exactly?
Whoa - whoa, sparky.....why in such a rush!?
Details?