Currently rebuilding 81 2F. The Weber carb was definitely running rich and pistons/ valves were pretty scorched. I know I can restrict the flow but I am considering going back to OEM carb. Would like to hear thoughts and experiences on both options.
Weber Carb?
- Thread starter trig8r
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Not a webber guy either. Running rich might wash the oil off the walls, running lean runs hot that would be scorching piston and valves IMHO - but what do I know?
RevISK
SILVER Star
I had a Weber put on my truck without my consent.
When it ran well it ran awesome. That just wasn’t all the time. I ended up gathering all of the linkage, air cleaner and related bs and snagged a city racer carb.
Have an oe carb on the shelf waiting for a rebuild.
Go back. Or, don’t.
When it ran well it ran awesome. That just wasn’t all the time. I ended up gathering all of the linkage, air cleaner and related bs and snagged a city racer carb.
Have an oe carb on the shelf waiting for a rebuild.
Go back. Or, don’t.
My advice would be to go OEM too. I have a Weber on my 1970. It took me a while to figure out how to tune it. It runs good but I will go back to OEM at some point. Once I got mine tuned it has run well for several years.
I have heard this same thing and heard of others with damage. I had one for a few years and constantly had vacuum leaks at the base. I ended up with a Trollhole carb when he was still selling those and it was night and day. (And those were just cheap china carbs.)
I have the rochester 2 bbl than came on my rig in 1982. I had to unstick the accelerator pump back in like 2005 - other than that I haven't touched it. My delco dizzy that came on it in 82 was "rebuilt" by me about that same time. From about 1982 until I go sick 2010, I got 25 mpg average between 100 miles on the freeway 55mph and 100 miles lugging around in 2 gear out on the more or less flat desert dirt roads. On one trip back to the university (1988?) in 4H I did 225 miles on the 12.5 gallon aux tank. Due to white out conditions I was stranded at Hoot's cafe. I drove to the road closure sign at White Bird Hill twice that night about 10 miles and I started the rig several times to warm up before that 12.5 gallons was burnt.
The rig sat for like 15 years. Ran a points fire threw it and it fired right up. Gas was preserved but I used it for weed burning and parts washing. I did the brakes and clutch. Late this summer I put in a Amoron Chinesium Delco as the real one was very sloppy. All my old parts fit.
Currently getting maybe 15 mpg - I bought a ultra sonic heated parts cleaner and a gallon of carb juice and plan to rip the carb down at rot it out. I need to a lot of other work on it too.
The rig sat for like 15 years. Ran a points fire threw it and it fired right up. Gas was preserved but I used it for weed burning and parts washing. I did the brakes and clutch. Late this summer I put in a Amoron Chinesium Delco as the real one was very sloppy. All my old parts fit.
Currently getting maybe 15 mpg - I bought a ultra sonic heated parts cleaner and a gallon of carb juice and plan to rip the carb down at rot it out. I need to a lot of other work on it too.
Here’s a little light reading that documents my conversion back to stock, I had a lot of surprises along the way but it’s been bulletproof through the years.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Kelly, your thread was super helpful. Thanks again.Here’s a little light reading that documents my conversion back to stock, I had a lot of surprises along the way but it’s been bulletproof through the years.
OP- do refer to @77mustard40 thread should you decide to revert.
Ok so these are a the best pic's I got today. Weather is crap and I don't feel good.
Notch in air cleaner bracket so I can get a socket on manifold nut easily
Wing nut on center carb rod - installed by PO
Carb sitting on tungsten mixing screen (man-a-fre) sitting on top man-a-fre carb adapter base. I think PO made/fitted the throttle cable assembly to carb. I made the fluid heat riser copy of the man-a-fre one
You can see the 2 man-a-fre header gaskets. Right behind the choke cable clamp is my stepped washer made from a 50BMG case you can see the extractor grove.
Notch in air cleaner bracket so I can get a socket on manifold nut easily
Wing nut on center carb rod - installed by PO
Carb sitting on tungsten mixing screen (man-a-fre) sitting on top man-a-fre carb adapter base. I think PO made/fitted the throttle cable assembly to carb. I made the fluid heat riser copy of the man-a-fre one
You can see the 2 man-a-fre header gaskets. Right behind the choke cable clamp is my stepped washer made from a 50BMG case you can see the extractor grove.
Yes excellent plan.
The use of weber carbs, once all the rage and very vogue from the 90s into the early 2ks.....has not aged well.
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my shop is Orlando and should have almost everything in stock to help you go back to an OEM setup. That is my preference for these as well.
Every weber I have dealt with has ran rich. I would go back to OEM.
Do the OEM carbs handle inclines and angles easier than aftermarket carbs? Or do we need FI to get all angle/no flood?
The Webers are really too high performance for the tractor motor. I have the 38/38 electric choke and (especially with the valves adjusted) it screams down the road, starts good, idles fine, NO rich/ NO lean... BUT I really want that progressive throttle of the OEM or smaller carb when I am trying to crawl over stuff. I do have experience working in a carb shop out of high school back in 86, so I think I have it well dialled now.
I would love a full OEM setup, but that comes after several other projects.
The Webers are really too high performance for the tractor motor. I have the 38/38 electric choke and (especially with the valves adjusted) it screams down the road, starts good, idles fine, NO rich/ NO lean... BUT I really want that progressive throttle of the OEM or smaller carb when I am trying to crawl over stuff. I do have experience working in a carb shop out of high school back in 86, so I think I have it well dialled now.
I would love a full OEM setup, but that comes after several other projects.
RevISK
SILVER Star
I have City Racer’s OE style carb and if I go down a quick steep slope it’ll stall out sometimes.
I am a naturally mechanically curious person and always have been, long before I got interested in automotive mechanics at 22.
In looking at the Webers over the years I have always wondered if it would be possible to create a ‘progressive’ secondary, albeit at the cost of total cfm, by grinding off some teeth or rotating the sprocket on the primary to delay the opening of the secondary?
RevISK
SILVER Star
I never had that happen with my Weber but there is no comparison with the drivability. I had a 32/36 and when it worked well it worked great but the OE style is so much better suited overall.
I am currently rebuilding two Aisan carbs for my truck, will install one and sell one.
I cannot compare to any aftermarket carb as the OEM Aisan carb is all I've ever had on my Pig. It seems to handle inclines and angles pretty well as I crawl over stuff like the Rubicon trail. I see no need for FI.