Weber Carb?

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Do the OEM carbs handle inclines and angles easier than aftermarket carbs? Or do we need FI to get all angle/no flood?

The Webers are really too high performance for the tractor motor. I have the 38/38 electric choke and (especially with the valves adjusted) it screams down the road, starts good, idles fine, NO rich/ NO lean... BUT I really want that progressive throttle of the OEM or smaller carb when I am trying to crawl over stuff. I do have experience working in a carb shop out of high school back in 86, so I think I have it well dialled now.

I would love a full OEM setup, but that comes after several other projects.
As far as inclines and angles, you get out of it what you put into it. As I have said about virtually every part of the powertrain, the fsm is a handy reference point; it is not the Bible. None of my rigs run factory specs. And none of them are duplicate alternative specs. In each case the final settings have been done ON THE TRAIL, where I can duplicate the issue that I want to adjust for.

The only compromise that I haven’t overcome is that adjusting fuel level low enough in the bowl to completely eliminate erratic idle in bouncy hill climbs causes temporary fuel starvation on hard acceleration on the highway.
 
As far as inclines and angles, you get out of it what you put into it. As I have said about virtually every part of the powertrain, the fsm is a handy reference point; it is not the Bible. None of my rigs run factory specs. And none of them are duplicate alternative specs. In each case the final settings have been done ON THE TRAIL, where I can duplicate the issue that I want to adjust for.

The only compromise that I haven’t overcome is that adjusting fuel level low enough in the bowl to completely eliminate erratic idle in bouncy hill climbs causes temporary fuel starvation on hard acceleration on the highway.

The only system that can adapt and overcome extreme angles or bouncy conditions is EFI or mechanical fuel injection in the case of diesel.
 
Some obstacles, like that long steep rock climb on Jax Trax in Moab had EVERY carbureted rig taking the side route that broke the steep angle up a bit. Well on our run, no one wanted the uncertainty... was pretty long.

There ISa Weber mod to vent fuel out the top of the bowl (drills out that thing that looks like it wants to be a return line) in case of severe nose-up
orientation.

Not sure I'll try it.
 
It’s the fuel bowl air vent that dumps into the air correction jets on steep angles… there’s a few ways to correct that… but it is annoying when it first happens to you

Only happened once in 30 years running my weber … it was a huge white knuckle vinyl up your hole event that I thought I was going head over arss… and when the heavy front end of a 40 comes off the ground … not a great feeling

IMG_9655.webp
 
When I first got my 74 with the F it had a weber and ran rich. When it ran it ran pretty good but I found it to be inconsistent. Granted it was old and not well taken care of so other variables at play but when I had my 2F fully rebuilt and installed I went with a city racer carb. It fired right up (when I finally got gas to it) and is running fine. Also love that it fits with the stock air cleaner and now I have a more OEM look.
 
It’s the fuel bowl air vent that dumps into the air correction jets on steep angles… there’s a few ways to correct that… but it is annoying when it first happens to you

Only happened once in 30 years running my weber … it was a huge white knuckle vinyl up your hole event that I thought I was going head over arss… and when the heavy front end of a 40 comes off the ground … not a great feeling

View attachment 4056205
That feeling is not fun.
 
It’s the fuel bowl air vent that dumps into the air correction jets on steep angles… there’s a few ways to correct that… but it is annoying when it first happens to you

Only happened once in 30 years running my weber … it was a huge white knuckle vinyl up your hole event that I thought I was going head over arss… and when the heavy front end of a 40 comes off the ground … not a great feeling

View attachment 4056205
The "Mod" i saw, plugs the air gap with jb weld and sends the overflow back out to the charcoal cannister via drilled holes to open a return line. They then run a hose from there to the cannister. Don't know anyone's who's tried it.
 
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