True trac locker???

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Nov 11, 2009
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Colorado Springs, CO
Anybody ran or running a TRUE TRAC front locker? Wanting a front locker that doesnt mess with steering on highway. Any suggestions? I know the ARB, E-LOCKER, ect.... Trying to go alittle cheaper, but if not then OK

JT :beer: :clap:
 
The True-Trac is not an actual locker, but a limited slip. It is Detroit's name of their limited slip, or Posi. The nice thing about it compared to a Posi-Traction limited slip is it uses no clutches, but all gears.
It is ideal for front applications.

All things considered, if I needed something in the front of a frequently daily driven vehicle it would be the choice. BUT, if you take out the $$$ factor I think ARB, or better yet The Toyota cable locker would be the way to go. (But Mr T was not kind enough to allow us in the USA to have those)

The thing to remember is with a vehicle with front disconnect hubs, the locker, LSD, spool, whatever only comes into play when the hubs are locked in. The Lock-Right, Aussie Locker etc are "probably" cheaper and are easier to install than a LSD, and as long as the hubs ar not locked, are not noticed. Now, if you lock the hubs in, they are definately noticed. Plus the Lock-Right, Aussie etc are actual lockers, versus the limited slip. The Lock-Rights I have owned were always purchased as a temporary, economical way to get the traction I wanted, with drawbacks. The best luck I have had with Lock-Rights have been in Toyotas. The worst luck I have had with them were in GM and Ford. (S-10 and full sized Ford) I think the reason for this was that Mr T made the Toyota diff a little better than the GM and Ford vehicles I put them in.

If I had to drive a vehicle in 4WD on a road, and traction was required the True-Trac would probably be the choice I would make. BUT, I like being able to have the option to turn it on and off. Even with ARB's and Toyota electric lockers, when I use them on road or off, especially in off camber, slippery situations, I find myself turning them on and off frequently. MY rule of thumb is to only turn on (or lock the hubs in) a front locker when needed, especially on road.

Also, in my experience, a locker, LSD, etc is much more noticable in a shorter wheel-based vehicle such as an fj40, compared to a wagon, 4-runner, full sized truck, etc.
 
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Another advantage of a selectable front locker, along with manual hubs, is that you can select which front tire you want to drive; i.e. turn on the locker then lock only the hub that you want to pull with. Granted, this is unusual, but can be helpful under certain slippery, off-camber situations.
 
thanks for the tips i will probally just put a aussie in the rear for now and build my sliders and rear bumper and stuff. thanks again
 
Great Advice from Don!

Aussie's are the Cats Meow in the rear of a cruiser.. Cheep and effective.. you just need to get used to how they work..

on the Front, Keep it open for now, Lock it when you can get a set of Longs, and an ARB..

My Cruiser is Locked with Auto Lockers Front and rear, and is a little nerve racking driving down Old Stage like that! Especially when my T-case has a tendency of poping out of rear drive, so im in Front wheel Low, Locked on ice.. ;)
 
you should fix that TREVOR, thats what im gonna do after talking to Luke, Chuck, and Mike on the (short) ride last saturday gonna build the rear axle (gotta be done anyway) first, sliders, rear bumper, and go on a couple rides and learn more about everything. gonna slow down and do this this the right way. Cant wait to see everyones rigs soon.

JT
 

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