Trans mount???

[chicago]

Just had to come home EARLY from a 5 day run in death valley because my 203 adapter bolts came loose causing a progressively worsening trans fluid leak.
I have the motor mounts and a x member and rubber mounts under the t cases, but NO trans mount.
For whatever reason, it never dawned on me that I needed a trans mount, but apparently that is the issue as this is the second time a leak had sprung there.
What is the best way to keep the motor, trans and t cases moving in ONE PLANE? how do you make the mounts all jive together?

Thanks for any advice!!

 

[Mace]

Tranny should be mounted in a single point under the adapter between the tranny/tcase.

How is yours currently mounted?

I only have the motor mounts and the tranny adapter mount.

 

[chicago]

Tranny should be mounted in a single point under the adapter between the tranny/tcase.

How is yours currently mounted?

I only have the motor mounts and the tranny adapter mount.

The x member and mount is under the 203 adapter.
You can kinda see it in these two pics. Only ones i have on my phone.
This is the second time those bolts inside came loose causing this issue.
Sounds like yours and mine are mounted at the same points...
However, I do have rubber mounts under the "feet" of the 203 adapter.

 

[Mace]

so between the tranny and the 203 or the 203 and split tcase?

Mine's between the tranny and 203.

 

[chicago]

so between the tranny and the 203 or the 203 and split tcase?

Mine's between the tranny and 203.

It goes like this...
Trans, tail shaft housing, 203 adapter, 203, split case adapter and split case.
So the x member/ mount is under the 203 adapter at the tail shaft housing and is rubber mounted.
Do the motor mounts and rubber t case mounts have to match??
I just can't figure why those bolts inside there would come loose and cause the gasket and gasket maker to break the seal and leak.

 

[Mace]

locktight?

You have it in the right place. A "T" shaped mounting platform is perfect.

 

[chicago]

locktight?

You have it in the right place. A "T" shaped mounting platform is perfect.

Blue... Not the red.
Nothing else further up the trans for a mount??
Maybe different bushings under the mount??

 

[peesalot]

you may want to contact Georg(orangefj45) at Valley hybrids. He has alot of experience with split cases and different mounting/ driveline combos. Is it possible that the first time it happened the threads in the adapter were compromised ?
I know this will cause ripples but you may want to consider a mount at rear of tcase. The leverage the tcase is putting on the 203 & adapter is obviously causing havoc.

 

[Mace]

I have the same setup and use my 60 to prerun off road racecourses.. The mounting should not be a problem.

The adapter between the tranny and tcase bolts directly into the 203. Steel bolt on steel case. Crank those 3/8" bolts down. I want to say that they stock ones used the spiked washers to reduce the chance of backing out.

 

[chicago]

I have the same setup and use my 60 to prerun off road racecourses.. The mounting should not be a problem.

The adapter between the tranny and tcase bolts directly into the 203. Steel bolt on steel case. Crank those 3/8" bolts down. I want to say that they stock ones used the spiked washers to reduce the chance of backing out.

The issue isn't the external bolts.
It is the bolts that mate the 203 adapter to the tail shaft housing on the back of the trans. There are 4 of them inside there.
The bolts are steel, and the housing is aluminum... I wonder if peesalot is right, and the threads got thrashed in there....

 

[Mace]

Sounds like it.

Probably helicoil time.

 

[chicago]

Sounds like it.

Probably helicoil time.

Never have done one of those...
Are they trust worthy, or would I be better off getting a new adapter?

 

[Mace]

perfectly trustworthy. In fact, they actually make a stronger connection. Google "VW Case Saver". Same basic theory.

 

[chicago]

perfectly trustworthy. In fact, they actually make a stronger connection. Google "VW Case Saver". Same basic theory.

Okay...
Sounds as if there are varying types or helicoils with differing depths for strength?? The courser the helicoil, greater the strength?
Next question I have then, if I get a steel helicoil for the steel bolt, wouldn't I have the same issue?? Do you use some type thread lock ON the helicoil to keep it in place? HOW does it stay in place??
Thinking further on this topic, I did NOT USE, high temp thread lock! Is it possible the fluid temps got high enough to render the lock tite in effective? Didn't even cross my mind, to be honest.

Lots of questions, but I do appreciate the input!!

 

[bustanutley]

Helicoils add a ton of strength to the connection, I just use the SS spring jobs. Depending on what grade of bolt is used at that connection I would consider bumping it up to a higher grade and make sure those bolts are fully torqued. I agree with Mace that the treads are most likely pulling out of your adapter.

 

[Mace]

Okay...
Sounds as if there are varying types or helicoils with differing depths for strength?? The courser the helicoil, greater the strength?
Next question I have then, if I get a steel helicoil for the steel bolt, wouldn't I have the same issue?? Do you use some type thread lock ON the helicoil to keep it in place? HOW does it stay in place??
Thinking further on this topic, I did NOT USE, high temp thread lock! Is it possible the fluid temps got high enough to render the lock tite in effective? Didn't even cross my mind, to be honest.

Lots of questions, but I do appreciate the input!!

The reason the helicoils add strength is because they actually increase the amount of metal touching metal. Same reason fine threads are stronger than coarse threads.

Yes, use red locktight on the helicoil. Then just torque the bolt properly.


High temp tread lock is not necessary on that. Trannies do not get that hot.

 

[chicago]

Alright then.
Thanks gents!! Appreciate the input. I'll be able to determine more once i get in there, but that is pretty much every angle covered as far as where the leak is.

 

[chicago]

Just to update this for future if anyone else down the line runs into a problem...
The trans/ t case mount I had was not allowing the t case and motor and trans to flex in unison and as PEESALOT pointed out, the bolts pulled out the threads of the tailshaft housing as a result.

Here is how I re did the mount using a 203 aftermarket bushing kit I got from summit.

You can also reference my build thread (Chicago builds a 40) for more detail.

First pic is of the original, failed mount. It is the 203 bushing kit, but I thought that ONE rubber pad would do the trick. I was wrong.
So I modified the x member to use both upper and lower bushings.

I think it should work well, but...

Well see!!

 

[kcustom73]

Keith, you're probably on the right track here. Because I used the original cross member for the 203, I was able to use the original style bushing. You can see by the pic how beefy they are. So I'm thinking when it come to the 203, bigger is better

 

[chicago]

Keith, you're probably on the right track here. Because I used the original cross member for the 203, I was able to use the original style bushing. You can see by the pic how beefy they are. So I'm thinking when it come to the 203, bigger is better

Saw that mount in mu travels around summit web site.
Hope it works okay. I'd not be pleased to re do it again.
May try and incorporate a skid plate along w/ a bracket that ties the trans and 203 together.