Trailer noob: Brainstorming and planning (1 Viewer)

[Randy88FJ62]

After taking a 3 day weekend with Menuchao’s V8 converted FJ60 with trailer and RTT it got me thinking. I’d love to get a trailer in the next year or so after I finish my SOA conversion. Are these little trailers a lot of weight for an old 88 FJ62 to carry? On big hills I can barely keep my speed constant let alone hauling. Just wondering who has a stock 3FE drive train and if they are comfortable with the extra weight.

So my questions are:

• How many stock wagons are carrying trailers and are they satisfied with the towing capabilities, especially up hills?
• I have over 6 months to a year before I want to touch a project like this so what should I be looking for? What are the good trailer options? Are there specific ones that are extremely advantageous?

Because of my SOA I picked up a parts truck. I have a spare rear axle. Would it be beneficial to buy a frame and box and then put the rear 62 axle and rear 62 springs on it? My reason for such a thought is thinking ahead for trail spares. If the trailer has the same springs and axle I can scavenge from it in an emergency.

I’ve gone through the FAQ and looked at a few of the trailers but I’m still brainstorming and would like some direction and input.

What about buying a mostly completed trailer rather than building it? Would that be cheaper?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and remarks.

-Randy

 

[Max.Powerzz]

Looking forward to this thread. x2 on pulling power of a 62 question. After a couple of trips to Moab this summer loaded down with camping gear, I'm not sure how much the cruiser could pull. It had a hard time in the mountains by itself. But I would love to hear if others have been able to pull an m416 size trailer.

 

[kilo]

Can't help you on the cruiser, but on the trailer you may start from scratch, IMO. That way you can choose your materials and try to make it light that route?

 

[ntsqd]

I think that the whole trail spares thing is over-rated. I'm not even convinced that running the trailer on the same size tires, unless the tow rig tires are small, is all that great of an idea. Big balloon tires on a small, light trailer isn't a stable recipe.

I know that runs contrary to most posts on trailers, but trailers need different considerations than do tow rigs. If you effectively control the rear axle wrap the odds of needing a spare rear diff are not very high. Far more likely to need an axle shaft, but are you really likely to leave the trailer behind? A better plan, IMO, is to convert the rear to a FF so that front & rear drop-outs are a direct swap.

As far as towing power I towed the TrailBlazer with my 60 up the coast to near Oceano and was pleasantly surprised. we were loaded down for 'Glamping' (3 cast iron Dutch Oven's + their steel table, margarita dispenser, etc.) and the whole loading + trailer only cost 2 mpg. Gaviota Pass slowed us down, but not unreasonably. I do keep in mind that the altitude, even at the top of the pass, was not very high, but we went over the top at a steady 48 mph. I am curious how the 2F would perform towing this trailer at altitude, but the odds are that the V8 will go in before I get the chance to find out.

I think that the M416/M101cdn trailers are a great starting point, but they have to nearly meet your needs from the start. If they do not then a custom trailer is called for. I've longed to build a 416/101, but I am trailer rich and have absolutely no use for such a trailer.
Teh "How to Build a Trailer, vol. II" at Northern Tool is worth the price. I do not have vol. I so I've no idea if it is or not. If you can find a copy "Trailers: How to buy and evaluate" is worth at least what vol. II is worth and probably more.

 

[RockDoc]

Randy, after towing this over the Coquihalla in from the Vancouver BC area to Edmonton, I wouldn't be too worried about power. The 3FE is a real trooper, it may be slow, but it is solid as a rock. The combined weight was around 8000 lbs IIRC, and there was only one spot on the whole trip (700 or 800 miles) where the truck couldn't hold 45 or above. That said, getting the power from the engine to the road with some efficiency is going to be a big deal. Make sure you are geared properly (I did this with stock sized tires) and if you are going to tow a fair bit, it might be worth looking at the extreme VB to get lock up in 3rd (I've got one). I'm assuming you already have an ATF cooler.

 

[KOWBOY]

Would it be beneficial to buy a frame and box and then put the rear 62 axle and rear 62 springs on it?

Best check with your local/state laws ... runnin' a truck axle with gears in it under a trailer is illegal in some places.

I think that the whole trail spares thing is over-rated.

... unless you travel alone and do more than drive on dirt roads.

A few trail spares could save a long walk. I hate walkin'.

I'm not even convinced that running the trailer on the same size tires, unless the tow rig tires are small, is all that great of an idea. Big balloon tires on a small, light trailer isn't a stable recipe.

In addition to lookin' bad-ass ... the object here is to avoid havin' to carry two different spare tires. 1 spare for both the trailer and tow rig and also a high-quality plug kit should get you off the trail.

I'm runnin' 35's and have no stability issues on the highway or trails. My trailer goes 'bout 1500 lbs. loaded. Just get your weight distribution right, make sure the leaves of the spring packs aren't a ball of rust and freely slide against each other properly, and have a set of high quality shocks.

As you can see on this here forum, there's alot of ways to skin a cat when it comes to buildin'/buyin' a trailer.

My advise is to make a list of your specific needs for a trailer. The more precise this list is ... the easier it will be to determine the exact nature of the finished product. Once you've created the vision of your "perfect" trailer, the decision to buy/build/modify should become evident.

Good luck ... and post pictures.

 

[Exiled]

I wouldn't use an FJ62 axle, a 3,500 lb. standard trailer axle will be much lighter and will stand up to a lot of abuse. You can get it custom-made to the same width as your axle.

I towed my modified M416 trailer all over the southwest with my old FJ62. I wasn't breaking any speed records, especially going uphill, but I never found it a big issue and the old 3F handled it fine.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

RocDoc,
while doing my SOA I have regeared to 4.88's so I'm pretty close to stock gearing. The extreme valve body sounds waay too expensive for me as I have an extra A440F should I ever blow mine. I do have a trany cooler and that was the first upgrade I ever did to my 62.

My goal is to carry 5 people in my cruiser and take long weekends into the middle of nowhere. I want to be self reliant and have enough room for passenger cargo, fuel, and water.

Maybe I'll start with buying the books suggested and going from there.

My main goal was to see if people with stock 3FE's could haul and more than one person has chimed in to make me feel that it's doable. I don't care about going fast as long as I can use my stock engine.

Thanks for all the input.

 

[ntsqd]

I think that the whole trail spares thing is over-rated.

... unless you travel alone and do more than drive on dirt roads.

A few trail spares could save a long walk. I hate walkin'.


In addition to lookin' bad-ass ... the object here is to avoid havin' to carry two different spare tires. 1 spare for both the trailer and tow rig and also a high-quality plug kit should get you off the trail.

I mostly do travel alone. I don't like walking either. I'm working towards the tire sizes being close enough that the spare for either will work on the other. Perhaps not ideal, but will work.
Currently the trailer tires are 33-12.50's, that is absurd and obscene for a 650-850 lbs trailer. The trailer can run with 5 psi or 35 psi in the tires and it has little effect on the semi-bouncy ride. I've yet to mess with the RS9k knobs. Given the large rising rate of the rubber torsions it seems inadvisable to back off from full stiff. It will be getting 31's before the next trip out. My 60 is rolling on 33-10.50's and I see no reason for me to go larger.

Using a spare rear axle under a trailer means that the R&P will be turning and for that to live you'll need to keep the diff full of lube even though there is no load on them. That is an awful lot of added weight & complexity to offset the potential of needing a rear axle shaft or drop-out in the field.
One of those things that sounds good sitting at home, but really isn't all that practical.