ARCHIVE Toyota FJ Cruiser

[BMThiker]

For that price could you not get chrome moly cores and then ship them to RCV to do their magic? I remember pricing the Total Chaos 2" long travel chro-mo axle shafts at $575/pr. If RCV is literally using stock shaft equivalents, then I don't see the value. However, if they are indeed upgrading the shaft's grade too, then it seems a reasonable price point compared to the older pricing scheme. Maybe they can clarify this for us...

 

[Mtbcoach]

For that price could you not get chrome moly cores and then ship them to RCV to do their magic? I remember pricing the Total Chaos 2" long travel chro-mo axle shafts at $575/pr. If RCV is literally using stock shaft equivalents, then I don't see the value. However, if they are indeed upgrading the shaft's grade too, then it seems a reasonable price point compared to the older pricing scheme. Maybe they can clarify this for us...

All they use is the cage for the outer, building it up with CroMo. They rarely break on the shaft, mostly the inner is the weak link. With these, you install the inner and can separate it from the shaft/outer in the event one needs to change a boot or perform other work, leaving the inner installed...

 

[BMThiker]

thanks for the clarification. I'm sure RCV appreciates it too.

 

[FJColorado]

front axle???

How many people our there are breaking their front FJ Axles?

I have broken my front driver side axle but it was not due to wheeling. I have a 08 fj with a 6" rough country lift and I been looking to upgrade my axle so I do not have any more problems with it. My front shocks are the fabtech dirt logic 2.5 and the angle is throwing this off. I was informed that this would not affect anything but it has been putting stress on my axle. Would the RCV axle work with this kind of set up?

 

[Mtbcoach]

They don't list the axle on their website any longer. But, the RCV axle is/was a direct replacement for the stock CV axle, using CrMo for the inner and being able to remove the outer, keeping the inner bolted in.

Its my understanding RCV will still produce the axles but one must contact them directly to get it done, although, I've not talked with them first hand to verify. Send a PM to FJNewb, he is the last person I know who has contacted RCV about them...

 

[FJNewb]

My understanding is RCV is not currently offering the OEM replacement they once were, but plan to eventually do so in the future. I'd give them a call to find out more details on that.

They do offer custom solutions which will still bolt in, but generally are going to cost a bit more.

 

[FJColorado]

Thank you guys I did call them and they said it would work. But they have concerns with the angle that cvs are at now. Does anyone know anyone out there that might be able to get a customer IFS so that this is not an issue? Not wanting to do a SAS unless last resort.

 

[Mtbcoach]

Thank you guys I did call them and they said it would work. But they have concerns with the angle that cvs are at now. Does anyone know anyone out there that might be able to get a customer IFS so that this is not an issue? Not wanting to do a SAS unless last resort.

You haven't provided what your objective is and what you are trying to build. FJNewb's thread would be a good starting point for you.

I found exceptional success with an ICON/OME mix, 35's, Inchworm and no problems. IMHO, there is no benefit, only negatives going larger/higher than that...

 

[FJColorado]

My objective is to get a front axle that won't leak or break on me. My cv's are at maximum capacity. I have a 6 "lift and just upgrade my shocks to a fab tech 2.5 coil over shock rears are getting fabteck 2.25 dirt logic. I replacing my upper a arms to the total chaos. Hopefully I can get the r v axles as well I don't want to go higher or bigger just want my axles to last.

 

[Mtbcoach]

As you've discovered and advised by RCV, the CV angle can only go so far. The test I've always used is to jack the rig up to allow full droop of the front axles and rotate the tires to check for binding. If binding is present, one must reduce the droop one way or another.

Leaking and breaking are two different things. Leaking can be helped using the band-clamp swap, taking off the stock spring clamps and reducing the CV angle. Breaking is another thing. There is no part that can't be broken. If one is breaking CV's, best advise would be to re-think one's driving techniques...