Tires????

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

tudge0817

tudge0817

Joined
Feb 5, 2013
Threads
8
Messages
41
Location
Vancouver B.C. Canada
Hey there people's

So i am shopping arround for new tires and looking to buy in a month or two. looking at Toyo Open Country MT's or Pro Comp Extream MT2's. any opinion on either of these. and size wise i am looking at 33"s or 34"s. i have a 3" OME HD lift, what is required to run the 34"s and are they worth the added cost.

Any thoughts or opnion on this is greatly apreicated.

Thanks
 
I have the same lift, currently running 285x70x17's with no issues. 285's is abut the same as 33's so you should not have any issues. I like the Toyo's if my choice was between those two.
 
They will fit but you will want to do the front body mount chop if you haven't already. And they will rub inside the rear fender well if you wheel it hard and stuff them. Been running the Open Country 34" for 90,000 miles or so.
 
From what I've heard the pro comps are not a good tire. The only thing with the toyo's is they are expensive. Does anyone run the nitto trail grapplers. I think they are made by toyo but are way better price. And I am buying in metric sizes. Just Easier to say 33" or 34"
 
thatcabledude said:
Very impressive! Five tire rotation I assume? How long on your intervals?
Click to expand...

Only a four-tire rotation actually. I wasn't real religious about rotation mileage either. These are "E"-rated tires and they're very hard, so hard that they don't soften much until you air them down to 10-11 psi. It's one of the few things I don't like about these tires, the other being their weight. The price you pay for an indestructible tire that doesn't get flats I suppose.
 
Here is a link to a Toyo open country MT review i put together that may help. Bottom line: Bullet proof tire... Great tire... Very heavy... More expensive than most.

We went out of our way to get a new set (our second) before doing our Baja off road adventure because we knew we could count on them to be tougher than the 2" cactus thorns we pulled out of them. This same set then went through the Rubicon Trail... never a problem
 
I don't know the answer - but part of me is wondering: Aren't all the body chop mods required because the tire is wider rather than taller? So if a person puts a 285 on a rig and makes sure the tire section width stays close to 11 inches and the rim offset is kept near stock no chopping is needed?

I'm asking because I have 265/70's (32" x 10.7") and have been thinking about 285/70's (33" x 11.5") and don't see anywhere between the stock tire and the 285's that an extra 1/2" will matter. And I've even found some larger 34's that are still only 11 inches wide... since it's road height clearance I am after, I'm thinking I really don't need wider tires like 33" x 12.5".
 
As far as i understand when the wheels are straight there is no conflict with the body mounts, as long as the tire width is near stock. its when turning that the conflict arises. the "height" of the tire or Diameter is the problem as when increased it becomes closer to the Body mount. try measuring from the tire to the Body mount while the tries are straight and while turned full left or right, you'll see a difference. depending on the tire 33" and up will rub, the body mount chop is meant to eliminate or at least reduce the amount of rub. hope i got this right.

thanks
 
GWcruiser said:
I don't know the answer - but part of me is wondering: Aren't all the body chop mods required because the tire is wider rather than taller? So if a person puts a 285 on a rig and makes sure the tire section width stays close to 11 inches and the rim offset is kept near stock no chopping is needed?

I'm asking because I have 265/70's (32" x 10.7") and have been thinking about 285/70's (33" x 11.5") and don't see anywhere between the stock tire and the 285's that an extra 1/2" will matter. And I've even found some larger 34's that are still only 11 inches wide... since it's road height clearance I am after, I'm thinking I really don't need wider tires like 33" x 12.5".
Click to expand...

Why I advised using the 255/85/16 size, true 33" tire only 10" wide, no body mount chop necessary, just sayin...
 
When I ran 34" x 10.5" Super Swamper LTBs, no rub. It wasn't until I installed 315/75R16 wheels/tires that I needed the BMC. It's definitely the width of the tread more than the overall diameter that warrants a chop procedure.
 
tudge0817 said:
Hey there people's

So i am shopping arround for new tires and looking to buy in a month or two. looking at Toyo Open Country MT's or Pro Comp Extream MT2's. any opinion on either of these. and size wise i am looking at 33"s or 34"s. i have a 3" OME HD lift, what is required to run the 34"s and are they worth the added cost.

Any thoughts or opnion on this is greatly apreicated.

Thanks
Click to expand...
What year is your Fj?
 
I would not go over 33's. 2010 got a 8.2 axel that can handle bigger tires. 2007 has the 8.0 axel. 34 bmc, probably re gear and maybe some trimming of plastic. I hope that helps.
 
Last edited:
Sammy's right about tire size and differential ring gear/pinion ratios. If you go above a 33" tire, you will want to eventually consider regearing your differentials to make up for the increased tire diameter. It is most noticeable in that your acceleration off the line is not as zippy. The other big detraction when you have larger tires is when you use cruise control. The transmission is reading wheel speed versus engine RPMs and will "hunt" for the right gear, often downshifting at the slightest hill climb and sending your RPMs into the 4-5K zone.

Regearing to 4.56 or 4.88 ring gear/pinion in both axles is the cure for this issue (when you go to bigger tires) and will set you back about $1500 depending on labor rates.

However, he is incorrect in assuming the 8.2" ring gear can handle the larger tires better than the 8.0". They are still the same ratio of 3.73 to 1 (autotrans) and 3.90 to 1 (manual trans). The 8.2" is slightly stronger against breakage, but it doesn't affect the mathematical ratio, thus the affect on the transmission's role of hunting for gears remains the same, as does the decrease in zippiness off the line.
 
Are you cool with a body mount chop? If so a LOT will fit fine. Otherwise, besides the 'pizza cutter' sizes already mentioned, a 285/70/17 (for example) is probably the largest you want to go.
 
BMThiker said:
Sammy's right about tire size and differential ring gear/pinion ratios. If you go above a 33" tire, you will want to eventually consider regearing your differentials to make up for the increased tire diameter. It is most noticeable in that your acceleration off the line is not as zippy. The other big detraction when you have larger tires is when you use cruise control. The transmission is reading wheel speed versus engine RPMs and will "hunt" for the right gear, often downshifting at the slightest hill climb and sending your RPMs into the 4-5K zone.

Regearing to 4.56 or 4.88 ring gear/pinion in both axles is the cure for this issue (when you go to bigger tires) and will set you back about $1500 depending on labor rates.

However, he is incorrect in assuming the 8.2" ring gear can handle the larger tires better than the 8.0". They are still the same ratio of 3.73 to 1 (autotrans) and 3.90 to 1 (manual trans). The 8.2" is slightly stronger against breakage, but it doesn't affect the mathematical ratio, thus the affect on the transmission's role of hunting for gears remains the same, as does the decrease in zippiness off the line.
Click to expand...
Correct I need it to be more specific on the strength vs gears inside. Lot more peeps are breaking the 8 vs 8.2 with larger tires and I know the early 2007 had issues with diffs. Thanks for the correction.
 
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
New tires are on. Will be testing them up at Hale Creek this weekend
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom