Tie Rod End Quandary

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Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Threads
73
Messages
560
Location
Bakersfield, CA
I've got myself stuck after installing sag steering. The hi steer was built pre saginaw with custom drag link & tie rod to mini truck six stud knuckles. The steering box I used is from a 76 Jeep J20 with a drop pitman arm. The supplied tie rod end provided with the kit is pretty small and I could see this being a week point.
Here are the two tie-rod ends. The right is what was in use and fits the custom drag link (not sure if the Tie-rod end is a Toyota part or not).
The left is what was supplied with the drop pitman arm.
Obviously the thread pattern and size are not similar between the two. I would opt to use the one on the right considering that it already fits the drag link and it is beefier (obviously better for rocks and binds) but the tapered end does not fit (too small) in the pitman arm.
Advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 
The simple route would probably be to weld an insert into your drag link to match the treads on the end you have.
 
The pittman arm typically has enough meat to bore it out to the standard 1 ton taper. I suspect your linkage is set up for that since it's a common way to go. But you gotta measure and know.

You can also get a new drag link made by 4x4 Labs with whatever ends you want to run.
 
I had the same issue. My solution was to sleeve the end of the tie rod and add a weld in bung with the correct thread. VERY IMPORTANT make sure you had the TRE threaded into the bung while welding otherwise the threads will distort. My fab guy did a bead around the bottom and a couple of rose bud welds on the sides. I believe Bluetorch Fab sells the threaded bungs.
 
Thanks for the advice.
Boring the pitman arm to accept a larger TRE is a great idea I had not thought of. I will look into 4x4 Labs. I can def cut out the current bung and sleeve or weld in a new one once I find the part I want top use, Great advice on welding WITH the TRE inserted (obstacle avoidance is always great).
 
Hi all,

I believe the TRE on the left is one built for a J**p CJ-7. It has a stud taper that works with a lot of common pitman arms.

It is important to be sure the stud taper is correct for the hole in the pitman arm; otherwise stud failure is a very real risk.

Like Cruiserdrew wrote, the typical way to upgrade is to bore out the taper on the pitman arm to accept either GM one ton or Land Cruiser 80 Series TREs.

Regards,

Alan


I've got myself stuck after installing sag steering. The hi steer was built pre saginaw with custom drag link & tie rod to mini truck six stud knuckles. The steering box I used is from a 76 Jeep J20 with a drop pitman arm. The supplied tie rod end provided with the kit is pretty small and I could see this being a week point.
Here are the two tie-rod ends. The right is what was in use and fits the custom drag link (not sure if the Tie-rod end is a Toyota part or not).
The left is what was supplied with the drop pitman arm.
Obviously the thread pattern and size are not similar between the two. I would opt to use the one on the right considering that it already fits the drag link and it is beefier (obviously better for rocks and binds) but the tapered end does not fit (too small) in the pitman arm.
Advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

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