Build This years homework

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You’re the professional so I’m sure it’s always safety first. Having said that, that pig is up pretty high and you now have the frame supported on the very ends of a 50 yo frame. Couldn’t hurt to throw the tires under the middle of the frame. Just a belt and suspenders suggestion that someone taught me long ago.

Great looking class and fantastic that they are getting real world experience.
I was wondering about running the jack stands on the inside of the spring mounts?
That does look like a long stretch...
 
Hey guys, what is this thing? My 40 doesn’t have one but I’m assuming it is part of the emissions control? I was thinking it was a charcoal canister but it doesn’t look like what I’m used to.

It’s got a cap on the top and what looks like some sort of sight glass like a carb, I’m stumped.
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Does that Pig have AC?
 
Hey guys, what is this thing? My 40 doesn’t have one but I’m assuming it is part of the emissions control? I was thinking it was a charcoal canister but it doesn’t look like what I’m used to.

It’s got a cap on the top and what looks like some sort of sight glass like a carb, I’m stumped.
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What are the inlets and outlets to that tank?
 
I was wondering about running the jack stands on the inside of the spring mounts?
That does look like a long stretch...

We’ve got another set in the middle now in addition to the ends. Safety first.
 
What are the inlets and outlets to that tank?
Apparently you fill it with Marvels mystery oil and tie one line into the PCV hose to the carb and adjust to 6-8 drops visible in that sight glass per minute at idle.

I found a guy who sells service kits. We’ll get it running and reinstall it. It’s still got 3/4 of a tank of MMO inside it. For all I know it was working when we pulled it. They’re dead simple devices.
 
72, what’s the pull for? Mines unmarked and totally locked in the out position.

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Yup. Can usually be freed up with a grease massage along the cable and squirts of PB blaster at the pull knob. Sometimes may require pulling the inner bit out of the outer...a fine learning experience.
 
Okay gents…

We will run some 16” 285/75-16 (roughly a 33x11ish) BFG KO2s on this piggy. Likely on some steelies as I like the look and have a set of tires in the shed.

Should we buy a lift or do a shackle reversal? If I’m understanding a shackle reversal correctly it is going to add a few inches (~2”?) of lift if retaining the stock springs.

Easy button says buy the OME medium from Kurt and deal with relocating the rear spring hangers. I have really liked the ride of the OME rigs I’ve been in. That said it is just over $2k to do it all. Shackle reversals seem cheaper and I get why the ride is improved. Assuming I buy a kit from Rough Stuff or similar it seems like I could achieve a 2” lift for less than half of the OME kit, even using a quality shock absorber and new bushings all around. I assume I’d have to do an extended shackle in the rear to get some height but that’s always seemed a little hokey to me but I’m not above it ;)

I would imagine 2” of lift would allow me to run the 33x11 tires and still stuff them inside The fenders? I do NOT want to get into a body lift on this one.

Thoughts or advice?
 
Alcans out of Grand junction, no moving of the spring perches. My 69 has the Alcans and they fit great.

Can’t say it would be cheaper than OME from Kurt.

Anxious to see what the pig pen says about the shackle reversal, uncharted territory for me.
 
I never cared for the shackle reversal, now I see an occasional thread about reversing a reversal. Do you have a blacksmith/spring shop in town? I had my rears re-arched a long time ago, added 2 leaves too. Add some Mark A. shackles, you probably fit 33s
 
Might have missed a previous reply, but don't swap a 3 speed for a 4 speed for longer legs on the highway, top gear is 1:1 in both.
 
Thoughts:

I am running 33s on factory springs, I like it.

I am not enamored with the concept of a shackle reversal.

Does Kurt @cruiseroutfit offer a discount for educators? It might be that all you have to do is ask. Turning a dozen teens on to Land Cruisers seems to be a good strategy for a discount. These guys will be the target market in a few years.
 
I have run a shackle reversal for 20+ years. The theory on paper sounds great, however achieving the desired outcome requires more than what the companies offering the hardware can provide. The biggest obstacle is obtaining the proper spring length. Off the shelf lift springs are too short, causing an undesirable shackle angle, which equates to a rough ride, and over time, frame cracking. You can move the front spring hanger back to get a good shackle angle, but then the center pin in the spring packs places your axle further rearward in the wheel well. You can move the shackle hanger forward instead, but then the hanger rivets will need to be removed, and the shackle hanger rewelded back onto the frame. Since moving forward from the shackle hangers requires actually moving UP the frame, there will be a geometry change with regards to increased negative caster depending on how long the new shackles are.
The third option is to take a lot of careful measurements and have a local spring shop make you some custom length main leaves.

Shackle forward takes a lot of hassle out of the equation.

I’ll have to dig up some pics.
 
Dobinsons has a kit that doesn't require relocation of the rear spring hanger. Of course relocation of said hanger is not a huge undertaking if you prefer the ARB springs. Alcan is obviously an option as @greenbeast suggested. I would chose one of these three and "do it more or less properly" and avoid long shackles and anything else that goes with a mullet.

I don't like your tire choice; it's too wide. I would try to stay 10" or, preferably, under. Plenty of choices in a 16" rim to chose from.
 
Dobinsons has a kit that doesn't require relocation of the rear spring hanger. Of course relocation of said hanger is not a huge undertaking if you prefer the ARB springs. Alcan is obviously an option as @greenbeast suggested. I would chose one of these three and "do it more or less properly" and avoid long shackles and anything else that goes with a mullet.

I don't like your tire choice; it's too wide. I would try to stay 10" or, preferably, under. Plenty of choices in a 16" rim to chose from.
Great thoughts everyone. I agree with the narrow tires but I have a like new set of KO2's in the shed and they work amazing in the snow here in Montana so they are going on the Pig. Very helpful info and I appreciate it. Back in the 90's you weren't cool unless you had a shackle reversal on your 40... I think I will go with a normal suspension kit. I like the OME ride and Alcan quoted me a much higher price than my humble budget can afford.

Here's a rolled up next to the pig when we pressure washed it with the Hotsie... did it ruin my driveway... why yes, yes it did.

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