tcase and drive shaft flange assistance

[jfz80]

So i swapped drivetrains in the pickup and am now facing that last 10% that is being a PITA to finish up. Supposedly had 3 spd case in before and now but the flanges and bolt patterns are not lining up. I'd like to figure out what i need and get here before having shafts altered to needed length.

i feel like im working an SAT test ? and while i scored well my eng section must have made up for my math

One factor to consider is the DC shaft in place. Doesnt look like the DS flanges are as easily interchangeable because of this. Otherwise it would appear an easy solution; swap front shaft flange to back and vice versa.

So first ? is would it be just as easy to swap the Tcase flanges as the driveshaft flanges. Not sure that will be so now that it is installed in truck and just havent dove in to see what this entails. Trying to read up on Kurts tech link now for better understanding of what i got but may have to pull one to verify spline count.

Rear shaft flange (front) is 60x68x11
Rear tcase stud pattern is 56x64x10

Front shaft flange (rear) is 56x64x10
front tcase flange pattern is 60x68x11

not opposed to swapping shaft flange esp since i discovered a relatively new Ujoint has gone bad and will need replaced anyway, just looking for what would be the easiest and most cost effective path to take. havent found a dc flange with the bigger pattern but hoping not to buy whole ebrake/speedo housing to get right pattern if I dont have to since its got a new ebrake cable installed.

any advice would help. Thanks

let me know if any particular pics would help clarify the question or what parts are actually in place vs trusting the sellers words. Not that I dont believe him as much as what may have been changed from stock

 

[dbenke]

Will it work to separate the driveshaft slip yokes and swap the ends??
That's what I read.

 

[jfz80]

Good though David, but unfortunately no.

The double cardan joint on rear shaft is on the Tcase side as it should be so wont work for this application.
Slip yoke is on diff side in rear and tcase side in front. Ill get some pics up after dinner or in the morning.

 

[dbenke]

I've got some spare 60 shafts and some 40 yokes here, I'll check the bolt patterns later.

 

[Cirbo]

http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_flange.html

Possibly other good data here too:

http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech.html

A quick look makes me wonder if you might have a spline count problem as well.......
I installed the 3 speed gears (2.32:1) into a newer case with fine splined shafts.

I'm guessing your DC was needed because of your spring-over?

 

[CruisinTiger]

Yeah it seems that drive shaft flanges were one thing that yota did not make user friendly. When I swapped to a 4spd in the 40 I had to swap out about 3 different flanges before I had one that matched up. May save ya some headache by getting the universal flange from Kurt, or try and re-drill the flange you have.

 

[jfz80]

Thanks for the input guys.... sorry no pics; I had to get out to a job early this am to try and beat the heat now im waiting on mulch delivery as it gets hotter


Jim, I meant to attach that link in my post. Thats the one ive been reading. The spline count had me wondering as well and looks like I just need to pull the flange when i get home and see what I got. Is it really as easy as unstaking and removing the nut? ( i know, i need to search more ) As far as the DC joint im not sure as I didnt do the SOA on this one but it seems to make changing the DS flange more difficult and makes me look at the ebrake drum but that looks to be a more involved swap but easier in the long run. I am ASSuming the later ebrake drums had the bigger pattern as well.

I was eyeing the universal flange. That, or swapping at the slip joint seems like it would work for the front..... just need to pull and verify spline count. Unfortunately with the smaller DS flange in place and bigger TCase flange bolt pattern it doesnt appear to have enough material to redrill as some threads have suggested but ill look again once they are off and out from under the truck to verify

David that would be great, appreciate the search and looks like ill be seeing you in a couple weeks. The pattern I would need for the front would be 60x68 with 11mm holes and the 20spline slip yoke if you find the magic combo there. If not the universal or correct flange seems like the ticket.

Hate I dumped all the pig parts not too long ago as i had a couple different slip yoke ends after putting the 4spd in the pig. Even had a offer of a free one last weekend at the rising sun rally but wasnt sure what i needed and didnt want to take something I didnt need if not necessary. Now i feel i would have gladly carried it 20 blocks back and wrapped it up in a carry on.

See Gimpy, this was to be a two week project
Starting week 4 and if I make it to 5 i have some I told you so's to answer to

 

[the gimpey one]

Lol... see you on the 13th you can tell me all about it.

 

[Cirbo]

Is it really as easy as unstaking and removing the nut? ( i know, i need to search more ) As far as the DC joint im not sure as I didnt do the SOA on this one but it seems to make changing the DS flange more difficult and makes me look at the ebrake drum but that looks to be a more involved swap but easier in the long run. I am ASSuming the later ebrake drums had the bigger pattern as well.

It is that simple. Watch when you remove the nut though, as there may be shims under it or the thick washer. Additionally, if you pull the brake drum with the t-case full of oil, you will make a mess on your garage floor.

I think I may have an extra parking brake drum in my parts stash if you need it.

jC

 

[krzyabncanuck]

If you need certain flanges let me know. I have a few different ones laying around.

 

[jfz80]

Finally got my parts here and swapped around and on to driveshaft mods.


Take a look what I found. Think I know why I had the grrrrrrr in 4wd!

It looks like I may consider using the CV Joint up front now after the swap. Old drivetrain was level and this one is installed 4* nose high. But if my math is correct the angle difference in back is 5* just outside the 2-4 spec but curable with shims and the front is now at 17* difference!

Seem reasonable to add cv up front and grab some shims for the back
What do you guys think?