Swapped pinion flange.. need new crush sleeve?

[DiscoveryXD]

Long story short, I put a toyota V6 4.10 diff in my rover rear axle and this is my concern...

I took the old pinion flange off so I could put on a different one with a rover bolt pattern. I was told that since I did this I need to replace the crush sleeve since that is what sets the preload. I took the old flange off, put the new one on, and cranked down on it with my 1/2" drive ratchet.

How many ft lbs of torque should I put on the pinion nut?

I ONLY took the flange off, that's it... why would I need a new crush sleeve?

 

[FlatlandTRD]

How many ft lbs of torque should I put on the pinion nut?

I ONLY took the flange off, that's it... why would I need a new crush sleeve?

I'll check but I thought the torque was dependent on the PPL, in which case you want about 12-17 in lbs. It's the crushing of the sleeve that determines this. Personally I would add a solid spacer (check with Marlin).

As far as the crush sleeve, it was crushed the first time in order to set the PPL. It's no longer useful, and it's such a cheap part. There's no reason not to replace it and do it right.

This if full of good stuff..Toyota Gear Installs

 

[O.D.B]

The crush collars are what determine the final bearing preload. The amount of preload is normally 17 to 20 inch pounds, measuring off the twisting of the pinion flange useing a pinion inch pound torque wrench, not your average inch pound wrench..

It is possible to replace pinion seals and flanges with out replacing the crush collar if you index everything and try to line up your marks, it's still a crap shoot though and definitly not industry standard and if you go to tight with it, you will apply way to much preload and cause bearing failure which can have a domino affect in your differential..

Best fix for the future is to go with the solid spacer and shim set up, so you can illiminate the weak llink of the crush collar and be able to fix pinion seals and so on with a zip of the impact off and on and not have to worry about preload because your shim pack is what is holding and setting the preload not a collar that gets crushed and can be crushed further, "the weak link"

 

[DiscoveryXD]

thanks guys. I set if back just a tiny bit ast where it was, so we'll se how that goes. I can't afford to tear the diff appart right now. Last time I had a shop rebuild a diff it cost me $600! I'll keep an eye on it...

I'm trying to get 1100 for the rover diff I took out since it's new and locked with an ARB. If I have to, I'll use that money to do it right...

 

[Poser]

thanks guys. I set if back just a tiny bit ast where it was, so we'll se how that goes.

So you cranked it down with the impact gun, and then backed the nut off?


You do realize that when you cranked the nut down with the impact gun that it is very likely that it crushed the sleeve, since once they are crushed, it does not take a lot of force to continue to crush them?

Backing the nut off after crushing the sleeve will create a loose pinion bearing condition that can allow the pinion to walk around and not contact the ring gear as it should, causing accelerated gear and bearing wear, and possibly, a catastrophic failure.

 

[DiscoveryXD]

So you cranked it down with the impact gun, and then backed the nut off?


You do realize that when you cranked the nut down with the impact gun that it is very likely that it crushed the sleeve, since once they are crushed, it does not take a lot of force to continue to crush them?

Backing the nut off after crushing the sleeve will create a loose pinion bearing condition that can allow the pinion to walk around and not contact the ring gear as it should, causing accelerated gear and bearing wear, and possibly, a catastrophic failure.

no, that must have come across wrong...

I meant to say that I tightened it just a hair past where the old mark was. I used a 1/2" drive ratchet and tightened just barely beyond the old mark from where the nut was dimpled the first time.

make sense?