Sunroof haters please read ! (delete sunroof)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Thanks for the replies everyone. The shop is willing to take the glass out and reinstall the tub. In my view this would keep everything stock with all stock mounting points for lights and such. Is there any reason to not do this?

Eventually I'd love to have the headliner reshaped to look like it was stock non-sunroof, but that might be a while down the road.

Thanks for all the thoughts so far, I'm trying to give them an answer in the next hour if possible.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. The shop is willing to take the glass out and reinstall the tub. In my view this would keep everything stock with all stock mounting points for lights and such. Is there any reason to not do this?

Eventually I'd love to have the headliner reshaped to look like it was stock non-sunroof, but that might be a while down the road.

Thanks for all the thoughts so far, I'm trying to give them an answer in the next hour if possible.
My assembly (minus glass) is reinstalled just like you're talking. Easy and cheap. Like you, I'd love the no sunroof headliner, but it's an awful lot of work/money for a "want".
 
I just completed a sunroof delete on my LC. I cut out the old sunroof and rust. To ensure perfect fit for the patch I went to a wreckers and cut out a section of roof, cleaned it up and welded it in place. After body filler and sanding which took a while I used a bedliner paint on the roof to protect from scratches when I throw things on the rack. Worked great!. Now the headliner issue🤔 94 so thinking of replacing with a 95-97
 
Now the headliner issue🤔 94 so thinking of replacing with a 95-97
Below you'll find a link that i think you may find helpful if you want to replace your 94 headliner with one from a 95-97. Cheers Mate

 
Below you'll find a link that i think you may find helpful if you want to replace your 94 headliner with one from a 95-97. Cheers Mate

Thanks Rifleman! I was hoping someone on hear had done it before.
 
copied from post 78 from

Father, Son, and the Unholy UTE


img_6768-jpg.1374321
img_6769-jpg.1374322
Sorry to resurrect an old thread...

@2fpower - couple of questions: did you continue to tack until the weld was continuous before filling? Did you add curvature to the panel at all (like with an english wheel), or just use a flat panel? And did you butt weld or lap weld the panel in?

I'm building a trail rig, like to weld, want to reduce my COG, and add lightness :) This seems like one way to contribute to the cause.
 
Hi @2fpower, I got your PM and emailed you over the order info. Did you get it?

Sorry to resurrect an old thread...

@2fpower - couple of questions: did you continue to tack until the weld was continuous before filling? Did you add curvature to the panel at all (like with an english wheel), or just use a flat panel? And did you butt weld or lap weld the panel in?

I'm building a trail rig, like to weld, want to reduce my COG, and add lightness :) This seems like one way to contribute to the cause.


I used a flat panal, but as I welded it along, it bent to match the subtle curve. Yes, I weld very slowly with bird droppings. so tack every 6" or so, then wait for it to cool, then split the difference, let it cool, then split the difference, until you have a tack every inch, then start to fill in with longer tacks, but only 1/4 to 1/2 inch or so, depending on the thickness of the material. If it burns a hole, do less.

I butt welded it to be flush.
 
New to the UH8mud forum, just bought a 1998 4runner. I was thinking about having the sunroof deleted. Did you all add bracing to the sheet metal welded in? I got a quote for $6000.00 to replace mine (which seems really high to me).
 
New to the UH8mud forum, just bought a 1998 4runner. I was thinking about having the sunroof deleted. Did you all add bracing to the sheet metal welded in? I got a quote for $6000.00 to replace mine (which seems really high to me).
Mine has no additional bracing (just sheet metal welded in the opening) and for 15ish years it's given me no problems.

$6k does sound high (to me), but realize it also is not an easy project when done properly. Lots of body work involved, and big flat-ish panels like roofs are especially tough to get right. Maybe it'd be cheaper if you planned on doing some sort of bed liner type product on the roof so the body work doesn't have to be perfect before the finish is sprayed.
 
Mine has no additional bracing (just sheet metal welded in the opening) and for 15ish years it's given me no problems.

$6k does sound high (to me), but realize it also is not an easy project when done properly. Lots of body work involved, and big flat-ish panels like roofs are especially tough to get right. Maybe it'd be cheaper if you planned on doing some sort of bed liner type product on the roof so the body work doesn't have to be perfect before the finish is sprayed.
Awesome! Thank you for the quick reply. I got another quote for $800.00 to weld in the sheet metal and clean it up prior to getting painted. The body shop quoted me another $800.00 to paint the whole roof. I plan on keeping the rig I just wanna make sure it’s done once and done right.
 
I would use 18 gauge 😉
 
The Sunroof is Great as long as you use it and Maintain it. The more it is used the better it works.
Most of us have 2nd Hand Rigs and it's too late.
My wife Opened mine on way to 300 mile Trip and we had to Force it closed.

That is when I learned how to Disconnect the Power to Switch without Affecting Look.

Disconnect Sunroof - Keep Factory Look

If you were cheap Silicone caulk would seal it well as long as it is Fully Closed.
In Post above a Magnet was Used with No Leaks.
 
The Sunroof is Great as long as you use it and Maintain it. The more it is used the better it works.
Most of us have 2nd Hand Rigs and it's too late.
My wife Opened mine on way to 300 mile Trip and we had to Force it closed.

That is when I learned how to Disconnect the Power to Switch without Affecting Look.

Disconnect Sunroof - Keep Factory Look

If you were cheap Silicone caulk would seal it well as long as it is Fully Closed.
In Post above a Magnet was Used with No Leaks.
I bought it from an older couple who had it siliconed and it leaked years later and they never messed with it again. So I’m curious to see how bad the rust is when I pull the headliner.
 
I bought it from an older couple who had it siliconed and it leaked years later and they never messed with it again. So I’m curious to see how bad the rust is when I pull the headliner.
If Sunroof Drains were Clear should be Minimal as it should not have Held Water? Curious what you Find.
I clean my Drains every 5 or so Years with Kettle of Hot water and Piece of String Trimmer Line or 14ga Copper Wire.
 
I will vote for just about any solution but the silicone method. It's the worst of all solutions: you don't have a sunroof anymore, but it eventually leaks anyway.
 
I'm planning to eventually pull mine and weld in a patch panel when I'm annoyed enough and have the cash or when I teach myself to weld I suppose.

For now I have flexseal tape all the way around the sunroof. My sunroof worked for the most part, and didn't leak until my son cracked the pan then it leaked BIG time. Haven't had any issues with the flex seal tape in almost two years now.
 
I'm planning to eventually pull mine and weld in a patch panel when I'm annoyed enough and have the cash or when I teach myself to weld I suppose.

For now I have flexseal tape all the way around the sunroof. My sunroof worked for the most part, and didn't leak until my son cracked the pan then it leaked BIG time. Haven't had any issues with the flex seal tape in almost two years now.
@Delta VS - Product Idea - Laser Cut Patch Panels might be worth the Time. Low Grade Stainless?
 
Back
Top Bottom