Disconnect Moonroof Sunroof Stuck and Maintain Map Light - No Cut Wires (1 Viewer)

[Hornd]

If your Sunroof Fails Open you have a Problem.

Pushing the Glass while Pushing Glass helped get it Closed.

The Map Light (Constant 12V) and Moonroof Controls are in Same Plug.

Preference was to keep the Light while Disconnecting Roof Controls but leaving everything Present.
Roof Could be Repaired or Used in Future - I hate Hacking stuff as a Quick Fix.

1. Remove the single Screw in the Light/Switch Panel and Gently Pry off the Panel - Pic 5
2. Remove the 2 Screws on the Roof Switches to Let it down - Pic 4
3. Remove the 2 Philips Screws on Left and Right - Brass Colored in Image - Pic1
4. Drop the Panel and cut the Zip Tie holding Connector.
5. Unhook the Connector by Putting a Pick between the 2 Connector Parts
6. Using a Pick Remove the 4 Wires for the SUnroof Control from the Front of the Connector (Not the wire Side)
7. Wrap those Wires in Electrical Tape.
8. Neatly Tuck the wires in behind the Roof Switches and replace the 2 Switch Screws - pic 3
9. Plug in Connector and put both Pieces back up.
10. Check Map Light Function - I had to reverse the Polarity
11. Install 2 Brass Colored Screws and Pop Cover Back on - Replace Single Philips Screw

If you ever want the Roof to work again Write down the Plug Wire Locations and Put in Glovebox or Hide a piece of tape with info on Roof Motor.

**Sunroof will be Siliconed Shut as there is water leaking with Wet Carpet by Seats.

*The LED Panels are from Ebay and will not Kill Battery if Left on Overnight. They are Far Superior in Output and Consumption.

**I also love the Mag Lite Led Flashlight Mounted to Door. - Pic 4

 

[greentruck]

**Sunroof will be Siliconed Shut as there is water leaking with Wet Carpet by Seats.

This symptom typically indicates one or more plugged drains. There are 4 of them, 2 in front on either side and 2 in back on either side. The sunroof itself isn't leaking.

This problem is usually alleviated by running some heavy duty trimmer line or lightweight cable (like on an overhead door lift, my favorite) down though them (on front drains) or up (for back drains.) Note that should any of the silicone fail, you end up with the same leaky issues as before.

 

[Hornd]

I ran Trimmer Line down them and I poured a Tea Kettle of Hot water down Each - That was enough for me for a Roof that is not used.

 

[greentruck]

I ran Trimmer Line down them and I poured a Tea Kettle of Hot water down Each - That was enough for me for a Roof that is not used.

Another fly in the ointment is that the front drains could be backing up because the rocker panel drains are plugged leaving them full of water. The front drains drain into the rocker panel, then out through D-shaped holes in the pinched together bottom of the rocker panel, which can get plugged with mud, etc. Especially in areas where road salt is used, this can be bad news even if you've solved the interior leaks. Worth inspecting as it's easy to do visually and opening any that are plugged.

 

[effjay80]

I know I'm a girly-man 4 wheeler but I like my moonroof. Cold night open under the stars with heat blasting on feet is blissful. I'd probably think otherwise if rained more here and had water ingress issues.

Anyone recall what allen size (I think allen??) that emergency closer rotator is as I should probably have one those in the toolkit.

 

[gummycarbs]

Anyone recall what allen size (I think allen??) that emergency closer rotator is as I should probably have one those in the toolkit.

It's a slot, and it's a PITA to turn without the screwdriver popping out. It would have been a thousand times better if they'd used a hex key.

 

[Hornd]

Another fly in the ointment is that the front drains could be backing up because the rocker panel drains are plugged leaving them full of water. The front drains drain into the rocker panel, then out through D-shaped holes in the pinched together bottom of the rocker panel, which can get plugged with mud, etc. Especially in areas where road salt is used, this can be bad news even if you've solved the interior leaks. Worth inspecting as it's easy to do visually and opening any that are plugged.

The water poured in the drains poured out the Rocker Panels?

 

[Hornd]

It's a slot, and it's a PITA to turn without the screwdriver popping out. It would have been a thousand times better if they'd used a hex key.

If the roof Cables are Bound, your not Turning that Slot and it becomes a Nightmare of a Job.

 

[gummycarbs]

If the roof Cables are Bound, your not Turning that Slot and it becomes a Nightmare of a Job.

My sunroof was working fine, I just happened to have the controls removed for whatever reason. It was *still* a PITA to close it with that awful slot. If the cables are bound, then nothing is going to help, because that slotted thing acts on the cables. You're bypassing the "window" motor, not the cables.

I've since ripped out the headliner and sunroof, and welded in a patch panel. Tall, bald men unite against sunroofs in Land Cruisers!

 

[effjay80]

LOL short bald man here. But yes I see FSM BO-56 says "special crank-shaped screwdriver" into slot to close and now that I posted this will anticipate catastrophic weather failure in near future.

Good luck and thanks all!

 

[greentruck]

The water poured in the drains poured out the Rocker Panels?

You're good then.

 

[BILT4ME]

If your Sunroof Fails Open you have a Problem.

Pushing the Glass while Pushing Glass helped get it Closed.

The Map Light (Constant 12V) and Moonroof Controls are in Same Plug.

Preference was to keep the Light while Disconnecting Roof Controls but leaving everything Present.
Roof Could be Repaired or Used in Future - I hate Hacking stuff as a Quick Fix.

1. Remove the single Screw in the Light/Switch Panel and Gently Pry off the Panel - Pic 5
2. Remove the 2 Screws on the Roof Switches to Let it down - Pic 4
3. Remove the 2 Philips Screws on Left and Right - Brass Colored in Image - Pic1
4. Drop the Panel and cut the Zip Tie holding Connector.
5. Unhook the Connector by Putting a Pick between the 2 Connector Parts
6. Using a Pick Remove the 4 Wires for the SUnroof Control from the Front of the Connector (Not the wire Side)
7. Wrap those Wires in Electrical Tape.
8. Neatly Tuck the wires in behind the Roof Switches and replace the 2 Switch Screws - pic 3
9. Plug in Connector and put both Pieces back up.
10. Check Map Light Function - I had to reverse the Polarity
11. Install 2 Brass Colored Screws and Pop Cover Back on - Replace Single Philips Screw

If you ever want the Roof to work again Write down the Plug Wire Locations and Put in Glovebox or Hide a piece of tape with info on Roof Motor.

**Sunroof will be Siliconed Shut as there is water leaking with Wet Carpet by Seats.

*The LED Panels are from Ebay and will not Kill Battery if Left on Overnight. They are Far Superior in Output and Consumption.

**I also love the Mag Lite Led Flashlight Mounted to Door. - Pic 4

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Because I want to someday use my sunroof again, I did not caulk it shut. I placed a 24"x 52" sign magnetic sheet over it on the outside.

My cables are broken and it sits down about 1/2" and it really leaks if it rains and the magnet isn't on there.

 

[Hornd]

Because I want to someday use my sunroof again, I did not caulk it shut. I placed a 24"x 52" sign magnetic sheet over it on the outside.

My cables are broken and it sits down about 1/2" and it really leaks if it rains and the magnet isn't on there.

I'm sure you could remove the Glass by Removing the 4 Bolts on both Sides and Manually Forcing the Sides Up then Replace Glass.
Does the Magnet Keep all the Rain Out?

 

[BILT4ME]

I'm sure you could remove the Glass by Removing the 4 Bolts on both Sides and Manually Forcing the Sides Up then Replace Glass.
Does the Magnet Keep all the Rain Out?

Why do I need to remove the glass?

Cables are broken. Must remove cassette to repair.

Yes the magnet keeps out the rain and is good at 70 mph with 50 mph headwind.