Seal the frame once

[Spud]

I'm looking at the frame on my FJ40....Anyone have advice on how to treat it?

The frame is in very good shape, it was sand blasted and then epoxy painted with about 3 coats, BUT-that was about 10 years ago, it then sat, (has not seen the road yet). So since then it has an occasional spot of surface rust working through from under the paint.

I want to seal it up good and do it only once. I have been reading about this POR stuff and wondering can I paint any of their products directly over the existing paint? Also the epoxy putty looks like good stuff...I was thinking to use this where my aluminum tub meets the front end, there are some gaps/transition points. Anyone have any input on this?

What would you guys do for this frame prep?

Thanks, Sam

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Time to learn how to post a picture. If the paint is peeling/bubbling then the prep work was no good and you should look at reblasting those areas and redoing the paint.

If............it was thoroughly blasted and prepped correctly, then painted, the rust is likely just bleeding out of a seam. I'd use one of the thin rust converters like xtend that will creep into the seam, seal it with a good enamel, then if you intend to use it in the winter oil it.

POR 15 is a love/hate type product there is no magic bullet. No love here.

 

[Spud]

Agreed...I will try and get some pics this weekend and get em' up Monday.

Not any bubbling, could let it go as is, but I figure right now I have the front end panels and wheels off, plus no brake lines, so I might as well hit it right and get it good and coated.

I like your idea, sounds simple enough. I was guessing that a bunch of folks would jump up and say "Yeah" to the POR-15, but I personally think it would be a pain in the butt after reading the application instructions etc, plus it aint cheap.

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Sam

 

[Spud]

Got some Xtend last night at Napa and the guys there suggested I use their spray on bed liner to coat the frame. Sounded like an OK idea to me. They say if I don't roll it on with the texture brush, that it will dry up smooth and very hard.

I'm thinking about that.

I plan to apply the xtend sometime this week and make a decision on what to do for a top coat.

Today I'm off to assess the 76' FJ...Got's to get that running and over to my place.

Sam

 

[Leaping Deer]

Personally I woulldn't bed line the frame. That stuff you be a pain to get off if you ever needed to do any fab work for any reason. I currently have some of it sprayed in my tub from the PO and I have to remove it and redo it as it is bubbled from rust in a couple of areas from poor prep.

However on my fathers boat trailer the did some for of spray on coating like that and it looks decent.

If you plan on using it in the winter do like Jim said and oil it. Dave (Sporin here on Mud) knows of a good place up north that does it and took some pictures after he had his 4Runner done.

Jason

 

[Spud]

Good points Jason...Thanks for the input.

When I was there, I was looking for a hard paint, (Cruiser Nerd suggested enamel), I was really surprised the guys at Napa did not really have anything. Thats when they suggested the bed liner stuff.

So does anyone know where to purchase a good hard enamel? Walmart?

Thanks, Sam

 

[Spud]

Here are a few pics of the frame. It may be OK as is, but I am thinking it could be better.

Sam

 

[Leaping Deer]

That frame doesn't look bad at all

 

[cruiser88]

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give coal cat a try

 

[tkorade]

Frame Coating

Here is the links for the two products I've used in NH and they have worked very well.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...DUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=1135

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=128&itemType=PRODUCT

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Coal Cat Polyamide and Amine Coal Tar-Epoxy Coatings are ideal for resistance to and immersion in fresh and salt water, crude oils, many acids, petroleum and petrochmical products, waste water, and other liquids.

There you go. That's as close as you can get to the old chassis black coal tar. Most commercial paint supply places have a version of this. It has to be a two part epoxy now because of the current regs. I think I've got a Sherwin Williams version in the garage, I can get you the name.

I can't tell from the pictures, but if you're worried about the existing paint, I'd pressure wash it to see how well it adheres, and if good topcoat with something like this.

 

[Spud]

OK, great...

Yeah the frame looks pretty good already. I'm just thinking it will be easier to touch it up now and do a very good job, rather than to wait till a year or two after to see more active rusting.

Thanks for all the input guys...I will follow up on these.

Sam

 

[peepers]

exactly what i am ccoating all my new slee suspension parts with.

Here is the links for the two products I've used in NH and they have worked very well.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...DUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=1135

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=128&itemType=PRODUCT

 

[JJS]

The oil undercoat works well, but it's disgusting when you have to work on the chassis. My early Bronco was the nastiest damn thing to work on. Even after I would pressure-wash the oil off to weld something on the frame, I would end up starting small fires inside the rails.