Rotational clicking from front end? Need help please! LONG

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Dec 5, 2010
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Puget Sound
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www.financevehiclewraps.com
Good evening, need some help from you LC 100 experts please! I recently purchased a 98 LC with high miles (we are at 263k now - bought with 256k). Got a good deal but knew Id have to do work..

Recently had both front wheel bearings replaced & repacked along with both front CV axles by local Les Schwab. They didn't use OEM CVs but I dont offroad it truly and they guarantee the work. Replaced CVs because the differential mounts were toast and the diff had been rocking since we purchased it.

Replaced both upper and lower diff mounts at the same time as the CV replacements. Unfortunately, the first CV on the drivers side wasn't splined properly and the axle was popping in and out causing basic clicking.

Took it to the mechanic and they replaced the CV. Unfortunately when I got it back the original click was gone but I started hearing a deeper click that gets faster when I drive faster. The clicking sounds like a bad CV or bad diff or something?

Since this all happened (about 2-3 weeks now), they have replaced both axles (2 and 3 times), both sets of wheel bearings and the sound is still there. The mechanic has 4 full days labor trying to decifer the issue; cant figure it out. They are confident that it is the "output bearing" on the diff or something? Im not overly confident but I do know they did everything to try and find it - even removed driveline to see if they could pinpoint it to the front for sure (rig wouldnt move with driveline removed).

So this is where I need your experienced help! You guys rock and I know there isn't anything you can't figure out.

I noticed the clicking is louder if I accelerate fast then seems to go away as I drive down the road.. I did crank up the torsion bars about 30 days before the repair work was done and I cranked them far too much. Didn't think much of it and even told the mechanic it might need to be lowered (turned each torsion 12 times around ). Truck is too high in front no question.

I was thinking could this be caused by too steep of an angle on the CV/Diff? I didn't crank them down yet because Id have to have it realigned but think it is prob the next step.

If it is possible to be from this, any idea of what it is that could be clicking? It has done this noise on the past several CVs but does sound to be getting louder and worse. Drive train is getting louder; maybe it is a bearing going REALLY bad? could be my imagination about the diff or something getting louder (at all speeds)...

Any help you can provide is GREATLY appreciated. I love my LC but this is driving me nuts and I have a 85mi daily commute that Im worried about each day it goes unresolved. definately getting worse!

Thanks in advance,
Jarrod - NE Tacoma, Wa
 
This is gonna sound pretty simple but did you have them check the brake pad shims/retainer clips? Mine was making the exact same noise where it clicked in relation to wheel RPM speed. I instantly thought it was a CV joint due to how pronounced the sound was but it turned out to be worn out brake pad shims/retainer clips.
 
I had a sound similar to flat spot on tire...rotational...but was more evident with windows up and radio off than with down like normal tire issue. It ended up being bad ring and pinion in front diff....3 broken teeth on ring gear, gouge on pinion, and one of the teeth wedged between case and carrier and gouged it as well. I had not dogged it out so thinking when I small smoke coming from inner boot when CV axle failed on trip to Wash DC...that it overheated and lost temper along with the binding/popping of CV axle as it was intermittent on highway and then finally failed completely...so drove 5 miles to dealership. So thought the impact of the axle binding and popping could have induced it as well along with getting too hot when failing.

New 4.88 gears front and rear (same price as oem front for most part) got rid of sound...but it was a pain to isolate all the way.

Good luck
 
thanks for the comments guys. Funny you should mention the retainer clip; we actually noticed that most of the noise was coming from a loose pad and we ordered a new set of clips and when he got it installed, the clicking sounded deeper. The loud noise went away but it sounded deeper in the drive train possibly. I'm thinking ring and pinion myself or possibly a bearing or something (dont know all the parts the diff has). its a 98 so it has a 2 ring pinion versus the later released 4 so maybe its on its way out?
Apprecite your comments and help guys! Anyone else have suggestions, please dont hesitate to chime in!
 
Just thinking outloud - I don't have experience with diagnosing this type of sound, but perhaps a mechanic's stethoscope while reproducing the sound will help you or a mechanic isolate the noise. I would think that alone would help you determine if it's inside the CV joint, if it's brake related, or if it's in the diff housing etc...

I assume you can manually move the wheel and hear the noise if your rig is on a lift? If so, then the back to basics approach should be able to identify the location of the noise and right now it seems like that's the mystery. If you know where the noise is coming from physically it seems like you'd be able to figure out the problem.
 
we put mine on a lift...with someone behind wheel and another with stethascope to find the sound...just be careful.

Are you saying the car was running and the guy behind the wheel accelerated while it was on the lift? Don't have enough experience to know if that can/should be done safely :-) I'm not fire marshall bill here, but just curious if this can be done safely. I imagine with AWD the driveline would be moving and hair or something could get caught/tangled with disastrous consequences. I think it's a best practice not to have someone in the vehicle on the lift - I assume one reason is so the vehicle is balanced properly on the posts. Bottom line - like Brock said be careful.

Still - shouldn't it be possible to manually turn the wheels and reproduce the noise?
 
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front diff

Have you drained the front gear lube? Does the noise happen in a straight line? Different sound on/off throttle? Wheel speed or driveline speed?
 
I noticed the clicking is louder if I accelerate fast then seems to go away as I drive down the road.. I did crank up the torsion bars about 30 days before the repair work was done and I cranked them far too much. Didn't think much of it and even told the mechanic it might need to be lowered (turned each torsion 12 times around ). Truck is too high in front no question.

Just a shot in the dark, but could the new axles not be able to handle the driveline angle of the raised truck? When you run out of tests, lower the torsion bars and see if it still clicks as bad. My guess is when you are accelerating, it puts more lift on the axles causing louder clicking. Again, just a guess. Good luck with the resolution.
 
Are you saying the car was running and the guy behind the wheel accelerated while it was on the lift? Don't have enough experience to know if that can/should be done safely :-) I'm not fire marshall bill here, but just curious if this can be done safely. I imagine with AWD the driveline would be moving and hair or something could get caught/tangled with disastrous consequences. I think it's a best practice not to have someone in the vehicle on the lift - I assume one reason is so the vehicle is balanced properly on the posts. Bottom line - like Brock said be careful.

Still - shouldn't it be possible to manually turn the wheels and reproduce the noise?

We put it on lift...garage lift (4 point frame contact) not floor jack. Put person inside in case for some reason the lift lowered...so they would be able to stop vehicle before it ran into wall...LOL Also, needed to engage CDL and put parking brake on so it would put power to the wheels and not just a few at time. Afterwards you need to clear the ABS fault codes but it works and is safe. If you want to turn one wheel at a time go ahead...but this was fast way to determine where it came from as with the axles and their density....the sound was traveling everywhere in driveline so had to find where it was LOUDEST.

Good luck and be careful.
 
Hey guys as a followup to a worrysome sound, it was something simple. Tbars cranked too high on aftermarket CVs. I lowered the tbars down 7 rotations and now front and rear match AND clicking is totally gone! Doh! Thanks for all the suggestions, gonna order diff drop now too just to b safe! Thanks again!
 
Hey guys as a followup to a worrysome sound, it was something simple. Tbars cranked too high on aftermarket CVs. I lowered the tbars down 7 rotations and now front and rear match AND clicking is totally gone! Doh! Thanks for all the suggestions, gonna order diff drop now too just to b safe! Thanks again!

Awesome that you resolved it.

"I lowered the tbars down 7 rotations and now front and rear match"

I'm confused - are you saying that your front was HIGHER than your rear by that much? I've seen people who prefer rake (rear higher - stock specs call for it), and people that prefer their stance level front to rear, but haven't seen anyone have their front higher than their rear. Was this intentional or an accident?

Just curious.
 

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