Ricochet Skids & DIY Crossmember (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Hopdup
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I still need to paint the crossmember. Then later, later...I'll add on the Fuel tank & Engine skids. She needs lifted ASAP.
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- #4
Nice!
Nice mods! Will definitely provide solid protection. Wish I could get a "tummy tuck" but that requires getting a different transfer case and all that.
The photos above are not a tummy tuck, but I've heard of someone on this board that collaborated with BudBuilt and clocked the stock transfer case 21*. The biggest modification was to the floorboard/trans tunnel and also bending the stick shift back to top center position.
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- #8
No, these aren't tummy tuck skids. I wish they were though. I wanna lift it, re-gear the diffs and add crawl cases. Then redo the t-case skids.
Next up for the under carriage are rocker sliders and lower control arm skids. Pics will come soon.
Next up for the under carriage are rocker sliders and lower control arm skids. Pics will come soon.
My $0.02
I'd lift and regear, but crawl cases are BIG leap. I think you'll find going to 4.56 or 4.88 will provide plenty of torquey grunt. If you get crazy with crawl box ratios you'll be more apt to twist off a CV axle with little effort. The FJC can do amazing things with just new diff gears, so I'd wheel it for a while with just that before going "all in".
I'd lift and regear, but crawl cases are BIG leap. I think you'll find going to 4.56 or 4.88 will provide plenty of torquey grunt. If you get crazy with crawl box ratios you'll be more apt to twist off a CV axle with little effort. The FJC can do amazing things with just new diff gears, so I'd wheel it for a while with just that before going "all in".
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- #10
I was thinking 4.56:1 gears because I'm never gonna go past 35" tires. Especially on stock axles. What about a front diff lock? I can always do that when I re-gear.
Now I don't know a thing about your wheeling experience or ultimate intentions with your truck, so take this with a grain of salt...
I find that unless you are doing some crazy boulder crawling, A-Trac works 99% of the time. Finding the proper line and wheel placement is better learned without relying on traction aids to get over a rock. That said, I'm in the process of adding a front locker to my rig. I still intend to use A-Trac first, and then if that doesn't do the trick I'll lock both front and rear.
If you have the $$$ to throw a locker in now while you are regearing, it is a good time to do it. Rebuilding a front clamshell type diff is a pain in the azz. You can save on labor and time if you do both now.
I find that unless you are doing some crazy boulder crawling, A-Trac works 99% of the time. Finding the proper line and wheel placement is better learned without relying on traction aids to get over a rock. That said, I'm in the process of adding a front locker to my rig. I still intend to use A-Trac first, and then if that doesn't do the trick I'll lock both front and rear.
If you have the $$$ to throw a locker in now while you are regearing, it is a good time to do it. Rebuilding a front clamshell type diff is a pain in the azz. You can save on labor and time if you do both now.
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- #12
I work on Toyota's so I'll be doing the labor myself. Saving lots of money there. I figured I'd just throw one in while I'm there. I have a spare third member so I can re-gear that then slap it in.
Also, I added A-trac and do agree...it works. I really appreciate your advice. As all the advice I've got is. "If you're gonna install a locker in a clamshell frt diff. Use it sparingly, then disengage it.
Also, I added A-trac and do agree...it works. I really appreciate your advice. As all the advice I've got is. "If you're gonna install a locker in a clamshell frt diff. Use it sparingly, then disengage it.
1911
chupacabra
This is good advice.
I've had an ARB locker in my front diff for a long time now. There are some situations where it is an "easy" button - climbing steep rocky ledges, where your rear axle has a difficult time pushing you over, springs to mind. But yes, it is best used sparingly, and not at all if your front wheels are turned hard or bound up in some crevice. Or in a situation where it is important to be able to steer accurately.
I have yet to break a front half-shaft in over 180,000 miles, either by good luck or by picking good lines and using the front locker sparingly.
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Lot of good info in here. The lockers always seemed like the logical choice, but as mentioned and as I'm learning from the more experienced guys that I wheel with that a-trac and a good line is just a capable.
