Replacing 215k OEM Shocks - New OEM or Bilstein/OME?

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OptimusPrime

OptimusPrime

Joined
Jan 19, 2016
Threads
16
Messages
86
Location
Salt Lake City
So my 215k mi 1999 100-series is in the shop for repairs (Help Please - 'Broke' 4-High During Extraction from Snow Bank). So while its in the shop's hands, I want to take the opportunity to address the aging suspension and at the very least, replace the desperately-in-need-of-replacement original shocks.

I've been going back and for and for a while I was going to try Bilstein or Old Man Emu, but on the other hand coming from what are likely 215k mi originals, the improvement of going from old, blown OEM shocks to brand new OEM might make enough of a difference at 1/3 of the cost that I won't miss the Bilsteins/OME. With that said, I plan on using the LC as the support vehicle on a mountain biking trek along the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands in May, so I want it to be in good shape for that 100-mile journey, and maybe 1-2 more similar journeys per year. I also daily drive a GTI and have always felt that my LC has been a little 'floaty'... will new OEM correct this, or do I need to go all the way to Bilstein/OME?

1) Given my needs, do I go OEM at $40 ea or Bilstein/OME at $110 ea?
2) Do my springs likely need to be repalced at this point?
3) What about torsion bars?

I was thinking I may ask the shop to crank the t-bars and install spring spacers to get a 1" lift or so all around on the cheap - I feel like I deserve to get something 'new' and 'fun' out of this whole ordeal. Is there any risk to doing this? The T-bars are already sagging, so could cranking them so much that it gives me a slight lift over factory height result in messed up driving characteristics?

4) What risk risks are posed by the 'crank the t-bars and add spring spacers' method?

Ultimately, I'm trying to find a solution that offers an improvement over the current situation, keeps me happy on a few summer trips on the trails, and is cost effective and sets me up for the long term.


-Chris
 
I put new OEM shocks from the Toyota dealer ($40/ea) on my 1998 LC to replace the originals at 190k, and I am very happy with the result. The vehicle stays flatter in turns and handles potholes and frost heaves much more smoothly with the new shocks. I did not replace the springs or adjust the t bars even though they are saggy because i like the way the vehicle handles at highway speeds, and i have the alignment dialed-in and did not want to mess with realigning.

The old shock bushings were shot, and the new shocks and bushings made a ton of difference. The new OEM shocks in combination with the old springs and saggy t bars are perfect for swallowing potholes and washboards at 80 mph; but if you want to go rock crawling you may want a lift. In my experience, the lifted trucks don't handle as well at high speeds on bad roads, which is important to me.

The Landcruiser is always going to feel a little floaty compared to your GTI, no matter what you do, but the new shocks will help.

In summary:
- I am very happy with the new OEM shocks; at $40/ea, they're a bargain.

- If you crank the t bars you will need to have the front end realigned,

- Any lift may adversely affect handling at speed. Realistically consider the terrain and your loaded weight to weigh the costs and benefits of new springs and t bars. I travel mostly unloaded on bad roads, and i am happy with the saggy old springs. If you are carrying a ton of stuff over big rocks, you should get new springs. For weekend trips on gravel roads the old ones are fine.

If you do get new springs/adjust t bars/ fresh alignment, it is crucial to maintain about 1-2" of "rake" so the front is lower than the rear. If the front end is too high, the steering will feel extra-floaty.

The other thing you might want to check is your suspension bushings and front swaybar links, which may be worn out at 200k. Replacing my front swaybar links and bushings really helped with handling, and for me, the swaybar links and bushings were more appealing than new springs and t bars.
 
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Stick with OEM.

I replaced the sagging rear springs with OEM springs and they gave me about 3/4" lift right there. I threw in air bags in the coils and I can easily get another 1" of lift on demand. Plus with the air bags I can adjust to the various loads I may be carrying.

I cranked the front Tbars but I still kept a bit of a rake to keep ride & handling compliant.

I've been really happy with this setup.
 
The cheap way is to go OEM.
I've been using Bilsteins in all my vehicles over the last 30 years and always liked the firmer more compliant ride.
There were some issues with Bilsteins braking apart near the upper mount neck (rears) and I wrote about this problem in the past, but by now Bilstein fixed their strut design for the 100 series and I'm happy to report that my last set is doing exactly what it was design to do over the last 2-3 years. German cars have that firm "proper" handling feel and if you want to inject a little "german" in to your LC you know what to do...
Cheers whatever you decide to go with !!
 
I went OEM at around 190k on my originals. I couldn't justify the premium shocks for the use I predict my Cruiser seeing in the next 5 years. These days ours is the most pavement pounding vehicle in my fleet.

I have noticed my Cruiser's suspension has softened up in the last few years, likely because I load it down a lot with family and gear these days. Have considered giving mine a slight t-bar crank and adding in some airbags at a very low PSI - not really to lift it, but to bring it back to stock and maybe slightly stiffen things a tad. I don't really want to lift it yet, we go in this one parking garage a few times a year that already has me cringing every time even though I know I have just enough clearance.
 
Bilstein are good shocks but the ride is to harsh for me. I would stick with OEM.
 
I think best bang for the buck is OEM shocks. It is a bit too soft for me, but my wife likes how the LC rides - this is important since this is her dd. For me, the next step up is the Ironman, sounds like OME is too stiff - just do a search, plenty of threads on shocks. I am always tempted to get Ironman, but just can not justify replacing a functional OEM shocks (probably have 15K on them now).

Our LC is mostly driven on pavements, maybe a little off-road here and there, but nothing too wild. We still have the running boards!
 
Try a Mud Vendor.
 
Got the truck back last night and the ride is so so much better. The obnoxious sound that would come from underneath when I hit bumps/potholes is gone, and the shop told me that one of the rears was completely blown. I took a gamble in that I hoped Old-OEM to New-OEM would be enough of an improvement that I don't miss having Bilstiens/OMEs, and I'm satisfied with the outcome, especially given the $300 savings. We'll see how it does on the White Rim Road in a few months, but for now, I'm content.
 
I have had bilstein shocks for the past 30k miles (now at 240k, replaced original OEM). I think its a matter of preference on the ride, but I am curious on other's experience in terms of the longevity of OEM vs. Bilstein.
 
DCjungle said:
I have had bilstein shocks for the past 30k miles (now at 240k, replaced original OEM). I think its a matter of preference on the ride, but I am curious on other's experience in terms of the longevity of OEM vs. Bilstein.
Click to expand...

In my past experience (European car rallies in late 80's and early 90's) Bilstein outlasted any other brand and the fact that their products were lifetime warrantied didn't hurt either... One of the factors was that they retained 98% efficiency after 100k kilometers (60k miles).
 
I replaced my shocks and rear springs sometime after 300k miles, and I went the Billy/OME route. I put four new Bilstein shocks and a pair of 220# rear OME springs on (from Slee), and the ride and handling are leagues better in my opinion. I am sure either the Billys or OEM shocks would have made an improvement since the OEMs were so old, but I have good experience with Billys from my race car, so I went that route. The 50# heavier OME springs were a suggestion from Christo at Slee, since I'd be doing some towing. It restored the rear ride height, plus maybe a bit, but it doesn't look different in the driveway with an eyeball measurement.
 
@99toylc @HiFiGuy Can either of you share the Bilstein part#'s for the shocks you are running? I had Bilstein on a 4Runner previously and really liked them. I want to give them a shot on my LC but want to make certain I get the correct ones to avoid some of the issues people have reported in the past. Thanks.
 
I run OEM shocks with OME springs/spacers in the rear and cranked TBs up front - run it as a daily driver and off road a good bit - zero issues. The OEM shocks are comfortable yet firm and were designed to handle this truck on or off the road, they do a great job.
 
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