Removing FJ60 transmission/transfer case - tips? (1 Viewer)

[stoshzack]

Hi All -

My mother-in-law is visiting in a few weeks to help watch the kid. I figure it is a perfect time to drop my '87 FJ60 transmission/transfer case. The transfer case needs to be rebuilt. I figured I'd change out the clutch while I am there. Never done this before, so wondering if people could post tips.

I've got the FSM, HF transmission jack, jack stands, hydraulic press, resurfaced fly wheel, Aisin clutch kit and Cruiser Outfitters transfer case rebuild kit.

Thanks to any and all for contributions!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Check out @CenTXFJ60 Frankenstein build thread. Seems you'll need to pull the front driveshaft for starters... after that it seems like it will be straight forward. Be sure to pick up a package of white bread for pushing out the seal... something or other like that. Crazy ass mud trick.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Sounds like you have a plan to free up some time. One tip I picked up here on mud is to drill out the plate on the trans jack so u can bolt the trans mount directly to it. Worked

great and I no longer have to use ratchet straps etc. if u have the same jack pictured here just open up the holes that are already there. Perfect fit. Also, good call on the clutch. If you're not already considering it you should do the rear main seal and oil pan gasket while in there.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

BTW...I see you're in Carolina. Good time for both the north and south being in the final four. Not sure if you're a hoops fan but this is truly a first.

 

[stoshzack]

BTW...I see you're in Carolina. Good time for both the north and south being in the final four. Not sure if you're a hoops fan but this is truly a first.

Yes, we live close to UNC (and Duke and NC State). I lived in SC for years and went to the other big college there that happened to win a national championship in football this year. With that said, I'm pulling for the underdog USC. Regardless of who wins, it should be fun to watch.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Yes, we live close to UNC (and Duke and NC State). I lived in SC for years and went to the other big college there that happened to win a national championship in football this year. With that said, I'm pulling for the underdog USC. Regardless of who wins, it should be fun to watch.

Ah...a Clemson Tiger. Great school. I'm kind of in a quandary as my grandfather used to be the hoops coach of both USC and UNC. Odds are slim, but it would be incredible to see them play in the championship. Either way...good luck with your work and let everyone know your progress. Some skilled folks on this site. I could not do the stuff I've done without all the feedback/advice via MUD

 

[mwebfj60]

Pilot and throwout bearing might be a good idea as well as rear main seal...since you have it that far pulled apart. When removing the transfer case and transmission, after you jack them up, remove the whole crossmember underneath by removing the bolts going into the frame, you would think you could remove the crossmember from the frame brackets and slide it out...I never could lift the transmission high enough. Now I remove one bracket from frame and the crossmember from the other frame bracket...leaving one bracket attached to the frame. Makes it easier on reassembly. I always use a padded jack under the oil pan to control the angle of the motor. Get your motor and transmission at the same angle and it will slide apart...and back together smoothly. I see a lot of people use studs in the mounting holes for alignment but I've never had an issue stabbing one in. Slow and smooth is better than using blunt force IMO.

 

[CaptClose]

Jim is spot on. It seems like he pulls a transmission out every other week or so.

 

[stoshzack]

Thanks to everyone for the help/tips

 

[WSOPgold2012]

Hi All -

My mother-in-law is visiting in a few weeks to help watch the kid. I figure it is a perfect time to drop my '87 FJ60 transmission/transfer case. The transfer case needs to be rebuilt. I figured I'd change out the clutch while I am there. Never done this before, so wondering if people could post tips.

I've got the FSM, HF transmission jack, jack stands, hydraulic press, resurfaced fly wheel, Aisin clutch kit and Cruiser Outfitters transfer case rebuild kit.

Thanks to any and all for contributions!

where can I find this FSM? thanks

 

[g-man]

@WSOPgold2012 find the Resources button at the top of the page. then drill down, Toyota and then Land cruiser, then go to page 2 and at the bottom its the last manual 84-90 chassis and body FSM.

Then click on it. and find the download button ..i believe its in the top right of the screen.

 

[g-man]

I downloaded mine years ago from Trollholes classified page. I found if you open it with adobe reader you can click on the index page and it will take you to that section. Also you can copy page/s or part of a page and paste them here.

 

[Tennessee80]

I think I’m going to be doing a rear main seal on my truck soon, any recent tips from anyone that has removed a 60 transmission with the body on the truck? Not exactly looking forward to the job, but it needs to be done!

 

[g-man]

The first time I replaced my RMS, my friend who is was a master mechanic pulled the old one out with a pick and tapped the new one in with a ball peen hammer. Even though we lubed the seal, we torn the inner rubber . We didn't know the inner seal was torn but after driving it I realized it was leaking worse than before. SO, having to remove the trans/t-case, clutch and flywheel for a second time to get at this seal, I decided to follow Poser's method and drop the oil pan and the rear bearing cap and PLACE the seal into position. This worked MUCH better AND allowed me to clean the bottom of my oil pan of sludge as well as the pick up screen from the oil pump. This significantly improved my oil pressure.

Here's the link start reading at post 70.

Oil pan/ side cover gasket stuff....(FAQ)

Do me a favor and clear this up for me if you would..... the pic above shows the trans still attached, correct? you mention in your post how easy it is to change the rear seal when the pan is down, correct? For newbies like myself then it's not really easy since the trans has to be removed...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Saw this tip here on MUD. Get some longer bolts that fit in the bellhousing and cut the heads off. Place them in the upper holes and they make perfect dowels to aim and hang the trans when stabbing. Just did another one last night and 99% of the time I hit on the first attempt.

 

[Godwin]

Sounds like you have a plan to free up some time. One tip I picked up here on mud is to drill out the plate on the trans jack so u can bolt the trans mount directly to it. WorkedView attachment 1429569 great and I no longer have to use ratchet straps etc. if u have the same jack pictured here just open up the holes that are already there. Perfect fit. Also, good call on the clutch. If you're not already considering it you should do the rear main seal and oil pan gasket while in there.

Saw this tip here on MUD. Get some longer bolts that fit in the bellhousing and cut the heads off. Place them in the upper holes and they make perfect dowels to aim and hang the trans when stabbing. Just did another one last night and 99% of the time I hit on the first attempt. View attachment 3176831

^^ Both of these tips.

I'm currently doing the clutch and replacing the transmission and t-case so I've pulled the front seats and carpet to pull the transmission hump cover. Having the larger hole for installing the transmission helps.

 

[Tennessee80]

Great tips guys!

Happy Thanksgiving!

 

[Godwin]

A chunk of 2x2 or 2x4 wood that you jam between the flywheel and bell housing. This piece of wood will prevent the flywheel from turning as you loosen and later retorque the flywheel bolts. Flywheel teeth will bite into the wood as the flywheel is turned and jam the wood a little deeper against the bell housing. Too loosen just reverse the rotation and the wood will drop free. Use blue loctite on the flywheel bolts and tighten to spec.

 

[Godwin]

You'll need to support the engine once the transmission crossmember has been removed, actually before. The stock jack is good for this, just set it under the oil pan. A ratchet strap across the frame rails and under the oil pan can also be used.

 

[cps432]

I think a pvc cap for a 3-4” pipe fits perfectly as a driver for setting the rear main seal. We used some grey RTV on the outside of the seal as a lubricant and sealer just to be certain nothing leaks. It’s held up great for 6 years or so.

Also, lube and bleed your HF jack. The tilt functions are wonderful but need some oil before use. Don’t forget to grease the zirks!

Drilling out the holes like Jimmy suggested is the boss move. The unit is very stable and easy to move. I believe you’ll need to remove the passenger wheel and jack the front end as high as you can to fit the transmission under the frame where it turns up into the wheel well. I’ve done it several times like this and will be doing it again today.