removing broken bolts/studs

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Joined
Sep 30, 2004
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18
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528
Location
Fargo, ND
anyone have an 'easy' way to do this? I'm replacing the skid plate on the '60, it had been removed by the po when he pulled the cat. Looks like about 50% of the bolts just broke off in the frame. use an 'easy out' with heat?? this is the first I've had to fix (knock on wood)... I'm open to anything.
 
Pick a drill bit that is close to the bolt size but less than the total diameter. Drill out the bolt, run a tap through it to remove the remaining threads and you should be good.
 
thanks guys...

I worked on this tonight. 3 of the 5 bolts were broke off flush with the frame. Two of them I was able to butt weld another bolt on the bottom a they turned out with a few choice words. the last one is still there, it's too deep to weld on to it without plug welding the hole. I'm going to try the easy out tomorrow.
 
When I removed my skid plate, and broke half the bolts, the afore mentioned drilling out and tapping is what helped.
cv
 
Well today didn’t go as smooth as I would have liked. I started drilling with 3/32 bit and after I had the hole about ½ inch in the bolt I had a momentary gap in concentration and snapped the mofo off in the bolt. I tried drilling that but drill bits don't like drilling other bits. That pretty much set the trend for the events to come. All in all I gave up on this bolt and put the skid plate on with 4/5ths of the bolts…

My other problems started when I decided to look in to my slow starting issue that’s been happening the last few weeks (this morning it wouldn’t start). It has had a very slow crank and if you flooded it by mistake you were not going anywhere. Now that its cooling off it has been really bad. I pulled the battery and alternator to have them tested. Both failed according the fine folks at o’reily. The battery is a red top optima 6 mo old. That should be a warranty replacement but the alt is original Toyota as far as I can tell…no warranty on 231K I am assuming.

I'm trying to get ready for dsr but the more I look the more problems I find...:mad:
 
Before the SM420 swap, my skid plate was held on with 4 bolts that were not in the original holes as they were all broken off (PO). For the 5th bolt, try drilling and tapping a new hole in the vicinity. Better than nothing.

I wouldn't give up on the Optima just yet - give it a good charge and then have it retested. Start off with the alternator.
 
I charged the optima overnight saturday, brought it in to sears (I bought it at a sears in ND), they tested it--said it was at about 50% charge and said it failed on their machine also. they handed me a new one. :grinpimp:

the alternator should be on it's way from kc today. I'll be up and running tonight.
 
Matt,
Drill 1/8" holles all around it and knock out the center, then weld a nut in it's place. Then run the tap through the nut to clear the threads out.
CC
 
I like that idea too... thanks Craig. My coworker offered to burn out the bolt with his plasma. similar idea i guess.

I brought in my alt. to exchange for a new(er) one and I asked to have them both tested so I can see the difference. Different guy runing it keep in mind. the 'new' one passed (of course) then stuck my old one one and it read the exact same votage, amperage etc. So other guy evedently didn't know how to run the machine.

It's all back together now and it fired right up. I'm ready for the weekend!
 
Matt,
Start it up and check the voltage across the positive and negative battery terminals. It should read 13 or 14 volts. if it doesn't you probably have a bad voltage regulator. I've had nothing but bad luck with o'reilys testing and batteries.
CC
 
It was pulling 14 volts on the o'reily machine, I don't know what rpm it runs though. in my truck at idle with all accessories and lights off it shows about 14ish also. I will check it with a volt meter tomorrow morning...
 
Matt,
If it was showing 14v on the machine, it has an internal regulator and should be alright. I was thinking about old FJ40s, like mine, which have external regulators.
CC
 
well this one has a little box (2"x2") on the back side of the alt. that says "Voltage regulator" and has a toyota part # on it clear as day. I'd take a pic but I can just show you this weekend. Thanks for your help.
 

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