Rear Window Tight Fit? (1 Viewer)

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@NikP I'm having this same problem this week and this was the solution i thought i might try. Haven't tried yet. Sounds like it worked for you though?

When i bought my 55 it had no weatherstrip at all on the tailgate. So the glass was rubbing against the metal tailgate and etched stripes up the glass. I bought a new piece of glass that is exactly the same size, but it won't fit in the SLO felt channel. I don't know how much lateral movement the glass would have, but I suspect the felt on either side of the glass is most important to reduce rattle and protect the glass.
I don't think lateral movement will be any issue. If it's that close of tolerance, it won't be notice. Like you, I figure either side if the glass was the biggest thing to take care of. Time will tell.
 
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So another problem. I got my tailgate all put together, motor works, no binding - but the glass won't go all the way down. It retracts until there is about 3/4" left and won't go any more. Always did before. What do i need to do?

Also does anyone else's motor work excellent for putting the window up, not so great going down? Seems slow and sluggish going down, but fast up. I would think if it were binding on something it would be difficult both ways. It was also the same when i bought the rig with no weatherstrip in the channels, so definatley not binding on something.
 
So that explains the not going all the way down, but not the sluggish downward motion you also mentioned.

yeah maybe my gear is worn out? Seems like it that were the case it would be sluggish both directions though. Problem is I can't shut the tailgate because the window won't retract all the way. I'll have to monkey with it some more.
 
I'll have to monkey with it some more.
The four bolts that hold the entire mechanism are slotted/oversize to allow you to make small adjustments to the alignment of the window. I’m guessing that your window is shifting out of square to the tracks when you roll it down.

A simple test is roll it up and stop half way up and set a level on the top of the glass then roll it down and stop half way and check level again. Basically you are pushing the window up and pulling it down and the play in the mechanism will tilt the window out of square and drag on the side felt more in one direction than the other, you need to split that difference and get the glass to track reasonably square in both directions.
 
The four bolts that hold the entire mechanism are slotted/oversize to allow you to make small adjustments to the alignment of the window. I’m guessing that your window is shifting out of square to the tracks when you roll it down.

A simple test is roll it up and stop half way up and set a level on the top of the glass then roll it down and stop half way and check level again. Basically you are pushing the window up and pulling it down and the play in the mechanism will tilt the window out of square and drag on the side felt more in one direction than the other, you need to split that difference and get the glass to track reasonably square in both directions.

That might be the cause of the sluggishness on the way down - seems like it would be getting out of square on the way up to since up is just a reverse of going down. I'll check it out. when retracted as far as it will go the glass is 3/4" out of the tailgate - but is level across the tailgate. The bottom glass channel is resting on the stop inside the tailgate. I couldn't see that the stop is adjustable at all. Any reason the glass would not retract all the way?
 
Seems like it would be getting out of square on the way up to since up is just a reverse of going down

True if it had a liner actuator but our rear windows have a gear mechanism that pushes from the out sides of the glass not the center.





The bottom glass channel is resting on the stop inside the tailgate

I believe the “stop” you are talking about would have had a link that attached to the rear handle linkage that prevents you from opening the rear gate unless the window is all the way down, just push it out of your way for now.
 
....Re-Assembly is taking much longer than taking it apart did, ha ha.
Oh I feel you. I think I had my motor out 6 or 7 times before I was done. I first put it together and the arms weren't on the proper gear tooth to make the window go up straight, then I'd change it and be two teeth off in the wrong direction. Then think you made the movement in the right direction only to find I didn't go far enough... Glad I had all day to get it done.
 
@scrapdaddy, unfortunately on this one it was my own stupidity causing the problem. Once i reassembled i was testing with the ignition in ACC position which was not sending enough power to the motor. Once I started the engine, it had great power up and down. I ran a few cycles to get the lube distributed and it works great now. No sluggish motor. Maybe I need to get that dual battery setup figured out so the window has the power it needs when the truck isn't started?

Sometimes my biggest obstacle is myself.
 
@scrapdaddy, unfortunately on this one it was my own stupidity causing the problem. Once i reassembled i was testing with the ignition in ACC position which was not sending enough power to the motor. Once I started the engine, it had great power up and down. I ran a few cycles to get the lube distributed and it works great now. No sluggish motor. Maybe I need to get that dual battery setup figured out so the window has the power it needs when the truck isn't started?

Sometimes my biggest obstacle is myself.

Well that’s great to hear. The draw going up must be less than down because of the motor working to overcome the clock-spring pressure.(?)
 
figured it out. Working great both up and down, now I just need to get the key cylinder operation working. Do your tailgates use the same key as the ignition? Mine doesn't seem to fit properly, but there was no secondary key when I purchased the rig.

The door key on mine operates the rear window and the gas fill door. The ignition key is separate and only operates the ignition.
 
The door key on mine operates the rear window and the gas fill door. The ignition key is separate and only operates the ignition.

Hmm.... I'm quite sure my ignition key works on my doors too. But i might be thinking of my 60, not the 55. I'll double check when i get home.
 

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