Rear Window Tight Fit? (1 Viewer)

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Man I can’t see how that’s the solution unless the spine is thinner than the picture suggests.

I’m not sure how much we need to make it work. Maybe 1/8th on each side?

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Joined
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Man I can’t see how that’s the solution unless the spine is thinner than the picture suggests.
Like I said " I would look at" but you’ll need to find the product that works best for you, the links I posted I have no experience with they are meant to show what’s readily available and with a little experimentation I’m sure a viable channel can be found.

I will say the Slocruisers U-Channels in my opinion are made from a softer durometer rubber than what came from the factory and mine started bunching up, after regluing them several times and having them bunch up and jam my rear window I removed them. I would look for a U-Channel that has a steel backer like one of the links I posted. If and when I decide to put something back in it will be rigid U-Channel.
 
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This is some rigid channel that I ordered for one of the projects I have here in the shop that is similar to one of the Amazon links I posted.
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I unfortunately cannot tell you exactly what this is ,the only information I have is on this tag.
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Hope this helps.
 
Joined
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Like I said " I would look at" but you’ll need to find the product that works best for you, the links I posted I have no experience with they are meant to show what’s readily available and with a little experimentation I’m sure a viable channel can be found.

I will say the Slocruisers U-Channels in my opinion are made from a softer durometer rubber than what came from the factory and mine started bunching up, after regluing them several times and having them bunch up and jam my rear window I removed them. I would look for a U-Channel that has a steel backer like one of the links I posted. If and when I decide to put something back in it will be rigid U-Channel.

Understood. Looks like a little experimentation is needed. Thanks for passing on your experience on the Slocruiser u-Channel. Mine already started to come apart with what little I've done and I wondered about it bunching up and becoming an issue.
 
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Understood. Looks like a little experimentation is needed. Thanks for passing on your experience on the Slocruiser u-Channel. Mine already started to come apart with what little I've done and I wondered about it bunching up and becoming an issue.

I ordered a compleat kit for my Mack truck but the stuff I have here may have come from this place.






Might be worth a look.
 
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So I had time to kill in the garage. I've proven you can't modify the track to gain any more room for the window. The track already sits against the inside wall of the tailgate.

@DTC72 I'm going to hang tight and see if you have any luck. Keep us posted.
 
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So I had time to kill in the garage. I've proven you can't modify the track to gain any more room for the window. The track already sits against the inside wall of the tailgate.

@DTC72 I'm going to hang tight and see if you have any luck. Keep us posted.
@NikP the channel I ordered off Amazon says it will be here on May 8th.
 
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Bend, Oregon
Anyone install the rear window channel (the felt the glass slides up and down in) from Slocruisers? I went to install the rear glass and can't get it in the channels without significant force. So much force that body weight leaning against the window moves the window about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

I'm not sure what the issue is. Window channel too thick? I can insert the window without the channel and theres not much room. I've never had the glass installed in this tailgate and the glass came from another 55 that was one year older. I'm not even sure it's an original window so it could be cut a little wide? Not sure.

It looks like I can rework the channel rails with a little cutting and welding to get a little more width to support the window but I'm not sure I should go that route.

Anyone have input and am I missing something obvious before I rework the metal?
I had this exact problem when I rebuilt my tailgate. The glass came with the pig when I bought it and channels were in place. Installed the felt in the side channels and had the same problem; it was too tight for the motor to move the window. I removed the felt that was adjacent to the edge of the glass (only in the deep part of the U shaped felt channel leaving the two side felt strips) and it was still too tight. I pulled the metal channels and compressed the U shaped mounts in a vice a bit and was able to gain enough room for the window to slide well. The felt is glued into a rubber channel and without the felt, the window was hanging up a bit. I solved this by gluing a narrow strip of electrical tape in the channel. With the window sliding against the tape rather than rubber, there’s minimal friction and the window slides well. My glass guy said trying to grind the window down might ruin it so widening up the channel was the solution. Definitely was a pain but glad it’s working now.
 
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Reno, Nevada
NikP, send me your address in PM and I’ll USPS you channel I bought from Summit Racing. It has metal backing like Jmack recommends and is working in my 69 Pig. Started out a bit tight but loosening up.
I’ll also locate the part number and post pics for rest of pigsty.

before reinstall:
I bench mounted the window motor assembly, installed the bottom metal glass channel onto the arms, and used bubble level to confirm the full travel from bottom to raised position remained level. As Rush mentions the arms are few teeth offset. Then I found center of the glass channel and the glass and made sure glass was centered in the channel. When assembled the glass has some float left/right but 1 tooth off on the alignment of the two arms and it binds.
 
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So here is the Window Channel I purchased from Summit Racing. It is Hagan Street Rod product which is good quality.
HAG-DOGRC is the Summit PN I believe. I researched quite a few options from Amazon and McMaster-Carr and couldn't find ones with steel spine and correct width.
This product is the correct width but height is short. For my application it works fine and window does not contact steel channel although picture looks like it does. I will continue to monitor this however as the felt wears in and might splice section of the felt that goes in the door as it also has rigid back.

Sending this spare roll to Nik and he can report if/how it works for his application.
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PabloCruise

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I have two SloCruiser rubber channels:
1) without felt/moleskin
2) with felt/moleskin

Both bind. When I was rebuilding my rear window, I pulled out two flat pieces of old hard rubber from one side. The other side was bare metal. I assumed they were added by the PO as the repro from SloCruisers was a U shape, ie three sides. My window gear is good. I built a new lower channel guide for the window, and noted that the PO bypassed the rear safety switch. All works good now except:
1) the rubber in the left/right channels we’ve been discussing
2) the right side of the tailgate doesn’t close all the way as it has maybe a half inch of slop/play... haven’t figured out the solution for either yet

I was wondering about this. The first ones I got from @SLOCRUISER had no felt, then he hooked me up with some felt ones.
 

PabloCruise

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One thing to check is make sure the glass is going up square. If it's cocked a little you'll have binding. Maybe when rebuilding the geared lift arms one of the arms slipped a few teeth.
And also make sure the window is squared in the bottom holder. If one of the arm rollers bind up it will cause the upward motion to come to a haunt.

These are important - and I know that you know this, but the glass has to centered in the channels as well...
 
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Sending this spare roll to Nik and he can report if/how it works for his application.
View attachment 2297517View attachment 2297518

I finally got into the garage to finish the rear glass install. The channel @sahelzer sent to me also didn't work. It was better than the SloCruiser channel but still too snug to allow the motor to move the window. I decided my option was to trim the glass and hope the 50-year old glass survives or plan B.

Plan B was to trim the SloCruiser channel so its only on the sides and let the glass contact the metal channel. I don't think it's an issue. I glues the two side pieces in the channel. Works fine.

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Wyoming
@NikP I'm having this same problem this week and this was the solution i thought i might try. Haven't tried yet. Sounds like it worked for you though?

When i bought my 55 it had no weatherstrip at all on the tailgate. So the glass was rubbing against the metal tailgate and etched stripes up the glass. I bought a new piece of glass that is exactly the same size, but it won't fit in the SLO felt channel. I don't know how much lateral movement the glass would have, but I suspect the felt on either side of the glass is most important to reduce rattle and protect the glass.
 

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