RallyLights Harness Arrived! Hella Cool!

[RockDoc]

You could do it, but you'd either have to wire the relays different so that low beams were the default "lights on" response, and you just add the highs on top of that. The way mine are wired (DS kit) "lights on" triggers a power on relay, and then the high beam signal triggers a relay that switches between low beam output and high beam output.

 

[GulfShoresFJ60]

Usually in a 4 headlight system the hi's of the hi/lo's and the hi-only's are on when on high beams, but not the lows as well. What I'm wondering about is not turning off the lows when on high .

Doing this in the tiny, puny, & nearly worthless 150mm headlights that GM used for a couple of years I ran into too much heat for the reflector assembly to handle and melted the empty "city light" bulb holders, but in the 165mm lens/reflectors this may not be a big of a deal. I have run the lights this way in the large rectangular headlights and in the 7" round (FJ60 type) headlights w/o this problem.

Just curious does this help having the highs and lows on at the same time?

I upgraded my bulbs wattage, but since you are in California I believe this is heavily frowned upon. I personally would not see where the highs and lows on at the same time would benefit much, but I have no experience.

 

[DirtyLittleSecret]

Having all 4 on makes a HUGE difference as they are angled differently. Gee, Im surprised to hear that anyone is having issues. Only "mod" I had to do was to snip off the connectors they supplied for the high beams for something larger. Simple clip & crimp job of maybe 10 seconds though. Have had no issues with mine.
Did you make sure that you ordered the "reverse ground" harness that our Cruisers require?

 

[ntsqd]

Just curious does this help having the highs and lows on at the same time?

I upgraded my bulbs wattage, but since you are in California I believe this is heavily frowned upon. I personally would not see where the highs and lows on at the same time would benefit much, but I have no experience.

It made a difference in the '91 Suburban with those puny 150mm lights (smaller than the FJ62 headlights!!!) until the plastic city light holder started melting. It made difference, though less noticeable, in the '79 Sub with the 7" rounds. The way I wired the Subs used a simple diode bridging the control circuits to keep the lows on all of the time that the headlights were lit. Have yet to look into if this would also work with the Toyota wiring or not. I've got upper shock mounts to do today, but since I've got the relays maybe if I get done a bit early.....

As a rule I run Hella (specifically that brand) 55/100's in my H4's.

 

[3pits]

When I talked to RL they confirmed that difference in H4/H1 vs sealed beams could be causing my problems, I changed the configuration of the outer light plugs

Ill post exactly what I did later

So as I gather if you ever went from stock sealed beams to h4/h1 you could just change the order of the wires on the outer plugs, and I think change the size of the connectors for the inner bulbs

I will probably go up to either h4/h1 or another brighter bulb once I make sure this is working, the silverstars are 20 each, and the way I see it: if I am going to spend another 80$ I want to make sure I have the brightest/best bulbs I can have

I just checked it, and my lights are working, I wont know how bright or the difference until I go home, around 1030