Quick Question on U-Joints

[100d ua]

So I think I have narrowed down my mystery vibration and have a few questions about the diagnosis / replacement.

1) For my 2000 LC, am I replacing just the (2) rear drive shaft U joints or do I need to (can I) replace the front ones?

2) If I am needing to diagnose whether it is the front or rear driveshaft, from my reading I am understanding that I can remove either front or rear, then I just need to lock the CDL and can drive in FWD or RWD mode. Is this okay even at highway speeds?

3) Lastly, I cant imagine it would cost too much for a shop to replace the U Joints if I bring them the drive shaft. I do most of the work on my rig but I don't have a big enough vice like I've seen in some videos. Is this easy enough to DIY if using hammer method?

TIA

 

[mattafact]

If you take it to a shop make sure they use OEM or Matsuba joints. Don't let them put Spicers in there.

 

[100d ua]

If you take it to a shop make sure they use OEM or Matsuba joints. Don't let them put Spicers in there.

I'm actually looking at the parts to order right now. TT uses TOYO brand, are these okay to go with or just go with the "Genuine Toyota" ones?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I'm actually looking at the parts to order right now. TT uses TOYO brand, are these okay to go with or just go with the "Genuine Toyota" ones?

I’m with @mattafact - Get the Toyota joints. They’ll last 20 more years.

 

[100d ua]

I’m with @mattafact - Get the Toyota joints. They’ll last 20 more years.

Understood. Now, is this a DIY worthy task or just make more sense to drop off at a driveline shop?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

If you have a bench vise and some sockets (18mm standard wall, IIRC, but may be wrong), you can do it yourself. Hell, I’ve done it on the trail with a 2x4, socket, and hammer, but a vise is wayyy easier. Just make sure the cups are lined up straight in the yoke when you start pushing them back in. Also, mark the yoke and shaft with a paint pen before you remove the old joints so that you know how to orient the yoke when you install the new joints. PB blaster and heat will help get the old ones out.

 

[js47]

Totally fine to drive in FWD or RWD at all speeds for as long as you want. I had a driveline vibration when I bought my 100 and ran it in FWD for several weeks and several thousand miles (mostly highway) — no problem.

 

[Tres Toys]

That crazy cat Scotty Kilmer has a video on how to replace a U-joints using a neat little tool. In the video he gets the job done in no time at all with this tool and a hammer. It has always taken me much longer to replace a u joint using a vise and sockets. Something to consider.

 

[100d ua]

That crazy cat Scotty Kilmer has a video on how to replace a U-joints using a neat little tool. In the video he gets the job done in no time at all with this tool and a hammer. It has always taken me much longer to replace a u joint using a vise and sockets. Something to consider.

Wow, makes it look like a breeze lol. If I can rent that tool I think I might just give it a shot.

 

[Skidoo]

Its a DIY job. The big trick is the snap rings come in different thicknesses, but the u-joints only come with a set in one thickness.
You might get lucky and need the size it comes with, but you have to ask yourself are you that kind of lucky?
A lot of shops will install with the set the joints come with, as many other vehicles don't used different thickness snap rings so they don't even think of it.
Lots of posts here of folks chasing vibration after a u-joint job and ending up buying new drivelines with the u-joint installed (which have the CORRECT snap rings).
If you get a set of different thickness snap rings you will do a better job than most shops.

 

[100d ua]

Its a DIY job. The big trick is the snap rings come in different thicknesses, but the u-joints only come with a set in one thickness.
You might get lucky and need the size it comes with, but you have to ask yourself are you that kind of lucky?
A lot of shops will install with the set the joints come with, as many other vehicles don't used different thickness snap rings so they don't even think of it.
Lots of posts here of folks chasing vibration after a u-joint job and ending up buying new drivelines with the u-joint installed (which have the CORRECT snap rings).
If you get a set of different thickness snap rings you will do a better job than most shops.

Why wouldn't the OEM U joints come with the correct snap rings? Lol.

 

[Skidoo]

Because all yokes are not same size. Get a new driveline and snap rings are sized to yoke and u-joint. Same reason there are different thickness snap rings for drive flange. To get best fit for smooth running. A reason Toyota u-joint last longer.

 

[100d ua]

If you take it to a shop make sure they use OEM or Matsuba joints. Don't let them put Spicers in there.

Ironically I just got off the phone with a driveline shop and they said they manufacture / restore drive lines for Toyota here using spicer u joints.. I mentioned only want OEM in there and he said that’s probably what I would get if I order from the local Toyota dealer. Hm...

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Ironically I just got off the phone with a driveline shop and they said they manufacture / restore drive lines for Toyota here using spicer u joints.. I mentioned only want OEM in there and he said that’s probably what I would get if I order from the local Toyota dealer. Hm...

spicer joints are junk, IMO

 

[100d ua]

Little update; so I got underneath, lifted the rig up so all 4 wheels were off the ground, I wiggled the DS at each end and saw absolutely zero vertical or horizontal play. There was only play when I turned the driveshaft.

Is it still possible the U joints are shot?