ntsqd
technerd
I've had several from different mfg's and none seem to be worth much. Curious if anyone has found a brand or model that I only would need to buy once per vehicle?
QUALITY 7 blade (RV type) socket? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ntsqd
- Start date
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I've had very good service from genuine Bargman plastic car end sockets in the past. Less satisfaction from other brands or knock-offs. More recently, i go to junkyards and get factory Toyota ones with a portion of the wiring harness for splicing. All splice joints are soldered and heat shrinked.
The car end on my wife's 03 Sequoia (bought new) still works great.
The available trailer ends have generally been less satisfactory, but i buy metal ones. They do not crack, and the screw that retains the plastic contact holder has the metal body to thread into, making that more reliable. But, They do tend to rust over time. The most reliable trailer side was a Toyota socket with a working cover on the trailer used with a double male ended "extension" cable that i detached and kept out of the weather until i connected the trailer. One end of the cable was a factory sealed bargman plug/wire assembly.
The car end on my wife's 03 Sequoia (bought new) still works great.
The available trailer ends have generally been less satisfactory, but i buy metal ones. They do not crack, and the screw that retains the plastic contact holder has the metal body to thread into, making that more reliable. But, They do tend to rust over time. The most reliable trailer side was a Toyota socket with a working cover on the trailer used with a double male ended "extension" cable that i detached and kept out of the weather until i connected the trailer. One end of the cable was a factory sealed bargman plug/wire assembly.
I find reading reviews over at eTrailer is a pretty good barometer for what to expect. They've become my go to supplier for most trailer/towing parts
I think Amazon might be a good sorcerer as well
I think Amazon might be a good sorcerer as well
ntsqd
technerd
- Thread starter
- #4
FWIW I'm not expecting something like these: http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...oducts/subsea/dry_mate_subsea_connectors.html
but since I used to work designing those I know what is possible. And every trailer connector that I've seen has been underwhelming.....
The latest socket to bite the dust is this one: http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Pollak/PK11893.html
Broke one hinge ear off the base by merely bumping the cover flap with my elbow when there was a plug in the socket.
Perhaps the Bargman version will be better. At least those ears appear to be thicker. Sure hope that the mounting hole locations are the same.
http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Bargman/50-87-007.html
but since I used to work designing those I know what is possible. And every trailer connector that I've seen has been underwhelming.....
The latest socket to bite the dust is this one: http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Pollak/PK11893.html
Broke one hinge ear off the base by merely bumping the cover flap with my elbow when there was a plug in the socket.
Perhaps the Bargman version will be better. At least those ears appear to be thicker. Sure hope that the mounting hole locations are the same.
http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Bargman/50-87-007.html
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I've been happy so far with my pollak metal socket:
http://products.pollakaftermarket.com/viewitems/connectors/7-way-sockets-and-accessories
http://products.pollakaftermarket.com/viewitems/connectors/7-way-sockets-and-accessories
After replacing mine a year or so ago , and mounting it below the bumper, it has a constant source of concern every time I go off road, that I might tear it off.
I still think the best possible install would be in the face of the rear bumper. My 2010 4runner has an aluminum beam.....so I just haven't mustered up the balls to take a hole saw to it. I keep thinking once I get an aftermarket CBI bumper I'll do it then.
Toyota had mounted these facing down, and I get why, but it was a PITA to plug and unplug ....almost having to be on your back to make it happen.
I still think the best possible install would be in the face of the rear bumper. My 2010 4runner has an aluminum beam.....so I just haven't mustered up the balls to take a hole saw to it. I keep thinking once I get an aftermarket CBI bumper I'll do it then.
Toyota had mounted these facing down, and I get why, but it was a PITA to plug and unplug ....almost having to be on your back to make it happen.
ntsqd
technerd
- Thread starter
- #9
It was a Pollack that I broke that started all of this. Full disclosure, it was a plastic receptacle because I hadn't had good results from the die cast units either.
Can see it here on the face of the bumper:
Knowing that I'm probably not going to find a good unit with the same mounting pattern makes me only want to change it once.
In the past what I've done is to mount the receptacle pointed straight down behind the bumper.
The magnetic assembly would be great if it interchanged with something else.
Can see it here on the face of the bumper:
Knowing that I'm probably not going to find a good unit with the same mounting pattern makes me only want to change it once.
In the past what I've done is to mount the receptacle pointed straight down behind the bumper.
The magnetic assembly would be great if it interchanged with something else.
They sell adapters in the even that you need to pull a different trailer or have yours pulled by someone else:
http://shop.ezconnector.com/c/adapters
About $30 per unit. Now you got me thinking too!
What kind of problems did you run into with the diecast unit? For the price of the EZ I could have a few diecast spares....
Pete
http://shop.ezconnector.com/c/adapters
About $30 per unit. Now you got me thinking too!
What kind of problems did you run into with the diecast unit? For the price of the EZ I could have a few diecast spares....
Pete