PTO winch- how do you release tension?
- Thread starter peteinjp
- Start date
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pete-san
choto muzukashii ne!
That's a tough question.
Could you not dis-engage the clutch and let it freewheel?
Sounds like an ugly option if there is a big strain on the cable.
You probably know a good reason why not - tell me pls.
cheers
choto muzukashii ne!
That's a tough question.
Could you not dis-engage the clutch and let it freewheel?
Sounds like an ugly option if there is a big strain on the cable.
You probably know a good reason why not - tell me pls.
cheers
- Thread starter
- #3
So da-ne!
The winch is a worm gear. The spiral gear can turn the worm but the worm can not turn the spiral. Once the shear pin has sheared the clutch is no longer having an effect on the winch- the winch has been disconnected from the drive train at the shear pin. If your talking about the dog clutch on the drum shaft- it can not be disengaged under load. I learned this on my first use of the winch pulling bushes. I found myself running to the ignition switch. Some bushes are tougher than you might think......
What I'm thinking is getting a cable cinch that can be attached to the cable (which is under tension) at any point and having a come-a-long to pull slack between the truck and the cable. But I'll probably just wait and see what happens when it happens. Hopefully it will never shear and if it does we'll probably just get another vehicle involved.
I was just curious how other people have dealt with the issue.
Pete
The winch is a worm gear. The spiral gear can turn the worm but the worm can not turn the spiral. Once the shear pin has sheared the clutch is no longer having an effect on the winch- the winch has been disconnected from the drive train at the shear pin. If your talking about the dog clutch on the drum shaft- it can not be disengaged under load. I learned this on my first use of the winch pulling bushes. I found myself running to the ignition switch. Some bushes are tougher than you might think......
What I'm thinking is getting a cable cinch that can be attached to the cable (which is under tension) at any point and having a come-a-long to pull slack between the truck and the cable. But I'll probably just wait and see what happens when it happens. Hopefully it will never shear and if it does we'll probably just get another vehicle involved.
I was just curious how other people have dealt with the issue.
Pete
Yes that clutch with the lever -
With load, it likely wouldn't budge to dis-engage unless you got brutal.
But if there was any vehicle movement, someone bouncing on the winch cable might create a moment of relaxed strain, and it might be shifted.
The cable cinch to the truck would get it done too.
What a bugger if you were winching youself down a steep incline!
With load, it likely wouldn't budge to dis-engage unless you got brutal.
But if there was any vehicle movement, someone bouncing on the winch cable might create a moment of relaxed strain, and it might be shifted.
The cable cinch to the truck would get it done too.
What a bugger if you were winching youself down a steep incline!
Pete mentions that the shear pin is sheared - putting the winch in reverse may not help.
A human or 2 bouncing on the horizontal winch line is a common practice in the oilfield where a winch line is run into a hole, even with a lot of tool weight hanging downhole.
I'm talking big drum winches with 20 or 30,000 feet of wire or cable spooled on, and a wide capacity range.
Shear pins are incorporated into the downhole tools, not on the winch.
A human or 2 bouncing on the horizontal winch line is a common practice in the oilfield where a winch line is run into a hole, even with a lot of tool weight hanging downhole.
I'm talking big drum winches with 20 or 30,000 feet of wire or cable spooled on, and a wide capacity range.
Shear pins are incorporated into the downhole tools, not on the winch.
Block up the wheels. Disconnect the front PTO drive shaft to expose the short shaft to the worm gear. Remove the shear pin and rotate the shaft by hand to remove tension off the worm gear.
The original OEM shear pin will shear at 1,500 lbs and the 'heavier' shear pin is not much better. I have since drilled it out and installed a bolt . I use a snatch block for heavy pulls..
- Thread starter
- #8
Man what a PITA that would be. I have the later 70 series pin. Snatch block will be used if in doubt. If I were going that far I suppose I'd put in a replacement pin and just use the engine to back the line out.
Now that I think about it the front u-joint can not be removed without taking the winch off the truck because it hits the hole in the frame cross member. I know this to be true because I took a shaft off of my parts truck to get that u-joint and ended up having to remove the winch to get the clearance.
I did file a V in the end of the spud shaft so I could tell where to line up the shear pin holes in the u-joint in order to pound the remaining bit out of the spud shaft.
Glenn have you sheared the 70 series pin before? What kind of pull did it take to do it?
pete
Now that I think about it the front u-joint can not be removed without taking the winch off the truck because it hits the hole in the frame cross member. I know this to be true because I took a shaft off of my parts truck to get that u-joint and ended up having to remove the winch to get the clearance.
I did file a V in the end of the spud shaft so I could tell where to line up the shear pin holes in the u-joint in order to pound the remaining bit out of the spud shaft.
Glenn have you sheared the 70 series pin before? What kind of pull did it take to do it?
pete
TLC Norway
woodwelder
oh, old thread. but i just wanna share. i welded a 19mm nut to the front of the input shaft. broke pins all the time, but just broke out a wrench to reverse it. also is handy when you need to put in the new pin.
later i sold the pto, after beeing happy with a 24v come up for years.
if i would do it again, i'd probably weld a 1/2" socket in front of the 19mm nut, and drill a hole in the bumper allowing me to just stick in a ratchet from the front, much quicker.
i drilled the holde to use 5mm 8.8 pins, that did the trick, just a pita to remove, always had spares in the tuffy, and the right size dowel to cnock it out.
later i sold the pto, after beeing happy with a 24v come up for years.
if i would do it again, i'd probably weld a 1/2" socket in front of the 19mm nut, and drill a hole in the bumper allowing me to just stick in a ratchet from the front, much quicker.
i drilled the holde to use 5mm 8.8 pins, that did the trick, just a pita to remove, always had spares in the tuffy, and the right size dowel to cnock it out.
its not that hard to put a new pin in it unless its buried in mud .drilled mine out 40 years ago and have not ever had that problem since had to go to 3/8 cable because the stock cable would break.if the tension is not to great you can use a bar to release the clutch .also putting the truck in gear and cranking the starter will sometimes free the cable all depends on the stuck .
I haven't had a pin break on me but if I did I would be putting pto box in neutral so I could spin the drive shaft, putting my replacement pin in right there and then backing the winch off under power to fit a snatch block.
If I am at all worried about a pull I just use a snatch anyway so my stock pins feel well up to the task.
If I am at all worried about a pull I just use a snatch anyway so my stock pins feel well up to the task.
