Yes in AZ my ‘76 and ‘78 are registered out of Phoenix area. Unfortunately I work in the oven but have a place in Prescott to escape this hell hole
Pros and Cons of Desmogging all original FJ40
- Thread starter Last Flight Out
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fjc-man
SILVER Star
Emissions equipment in the seventies is what they came up with then. That’s what got them by at that time. Some people who dream of owning a FJ40 or a FJ60 have enough trouble wrapping their head around a 4 cycle engine, I say look at it in terms all humans can relate to…. Suck, squeeze, bang, blow! Now ancient emissions equipment and their functional relationship to each other for a beginner who wants to learn and be able to drive and enjoy the new to them, beast. Well if you live where it must pass to plate, the thing that can speed up that possibility is if all that stuff is present when they buy it. To the uninformed buyer, the impending nightmare. If everything is there, the hurdles are a lot lower. How much performance do you need to motor up a forest trail to that campsite anyway?
Downey
SILVER Star
In the late 1990's while we were doing Federal testing to get the TBI conversion smog exempted, we had to retain certain pieces of the original equipment smog components. Our test vehicles had to be mid 1980's FJ60's (worst case) in order to obtain the exemption we wanted for all 1987-older Landcruisers. Not only could we not find the necessary pieces of emission equipment that was still working on 14-15 year old rigs, but we actually had to epoxy one valve together in order to proceed with the testing. Fortunately in California, they lower the bar on emissions output each year the rig gets older, sooooo as your emissions equipment erodes you get to emit more emissions.
So my 75 JFJ40 has a re-painted unknown carburetor in it that is running filthy rich at 10.87% at cruise 2,500. I am getting 7 mpg’s and rather than send my un-known carb for re-build I was thinking of getting the one off of CityRacer. I have already removed the smog pump due to it seizing up on me while driving to my buddies house as well as the metal flex hose to the bottom of the air intake. What else needs to be removed to de-smog to run this Japanese carb?
Photos are from before I removed the fore mentioned smog items.
Photos are from before I removed the fore mentioned smog items.
brian
SILVER Star
what distributor is in it?
the 75s had a vac retard dissy, vs the far more common vac advance dissies.
the 75s had a vac retard dissy, vs the far more common vac advance dissies.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
There’s a date code stamped on the front of the carburetor that will help figuring out if that’s the original or not. Doesn’t a 75 still need to pass emissions in California? Anyway, if you decide to remove stuff pack it away for the next guy. That stuff is harder and harder to come by.
Nope 75’ and older is exempt in CA for smog.
No stamp and why I am thinking this is a carb not worth re-building.
No stamp and why I am thinking this is a carb not worth re-building.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
That is a 1975 Carb, made Jan 7th. Original. Worth rebuilding.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
Also - is it running rich because of jetting, a vacuum leak or other issue with the carb? Don't toss that carb, it it likely original to your truck. The knee-jerk reaction in so many cases is to pull the oem carb and yank all of the emissions stuff.
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nice fire-hazard feed line you have there with a plastic fuel filter right over a cylinder head/exhaust manifold.
Fix that before you do anything.
Fix that before you do anything.
While you are fixing the plastic fuel filter above the exhaust manifold you may want to also fix the carb inlet for the supply. It appears someone has jammed a fitting into the threaded port. Hopefully it is not JBWelded in. As other have already stated, if you de-smog keep everything. I would buy a rebuild kit, watch PinHead's videos and rebuild your current carb before buying another carb.
Outstanding! Thanks.
Yes, I do apparently have a vacuum leak on the intake manifold on the rear runners according to the carburetor mechanic I had look at it. He said hopefully it’s just a gasket but to put a straight edge on it to check. He suggested to send the carb off to be re-built because he cannot get a rebuild kit. So the vacuum leak is making it not idle to rich but while cruising at 2500 she is dirty.
That was the previous owner just haven’t figured out what exactly to do with that line.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
For now just run a solid fuel line and mount the fuel filter where it’s supposed to be over on the passenger side frame rail below the battery.
I wouldn’t think your far off from dialing in your cruiser! Square away the carb and I take, rock n roll.
I wouldn’t think your far off from dialing in your cruiser! Square away the carb and I take, rock n roll.
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A proper desmog for that particular carburetor will require internal drilling. I do them routinely during the rebuild process.
www.marksoffroad.net
www.marksoffroad.net
