Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?

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afgman786 said:
Not sure how good the arb instructions are, but for the Ironman which copied ARB the instructions sucked for wiring and the wire colors did not match what was in the instructions, so if that's the case test the wires instead of assuming something.
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Come on...remember that ARB is Aussie...everything is backwards to us down there! :rofl:
 
afgman786 said:
Not sure how good the arb instructions are, but for the Ironman which copied ARB the instructions sucked for wiring and the wire colors did not match what was in the instructions, so if that's the case test the wires instead of assuming something.
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At least your Ironman came with instructions, my kit just came with a pair of these and no further context:

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Pulgasari said:
At least your Ironman came with instructions, my kit just came with a pair of these and no further context:

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At least those are most likely wired as expected, if I remember correctly the wiring on mine would've thrown professor Ed for a fit. Yellow or some bright color ended up being ground, brown was turn signal and other dumb stuff
 
Installed a new main battery as mine was failing. Also installed my new Black Friday gift to myself rear attic storage space.

And found out on Christmas that I’m expecting grand baby #4…😱.

IMG_3337.webp
 
NearJetties said:
When they finally empty all the Cadillacs out of the old Alexandria LR dealership before they tear it down and the test track is no longer blocked 😂
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oh wow, they are tearing it down? i remember when they built that place and that track was full of D90's. moved away from alexandria 12 years ago and every time i go back i'm shocked at how different things are.
 
CrabCake said:
This ^^^ Not that expensive from a marine store, and good security if you do happen to get into a front end accident on the road.
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i went even cheaper. i just keep the positive lead disconnected from the mil-spec battery terminal. not as fast as throwing a switch, and no where near as many style points!
 
Working on the new to me beadlocks, 3 out of the 4 are fine but the forth is giving me some problems.

Had a small leak at the valve stem, pulled it apart the other night and swapped in a fresh one unfortunately it still leaked :bang:. Couldn't see anything visually wrong with the stem hole. So brought it into work today to actually pull the tire off. Everything looks fine. Gonna swap another stem in and maybe put a little rtv around the base of it 🤷‍♂️

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TRDdrew said:
Working on the new to me beadlocks, 3 out of the 4 are fine but the forth is giving me some problems.

Had a small leak at the valve stem, pulled it apart the other night and swapped in a fresh one unfortunately it still leaked :bang:. Couldn't see anything visually wrong with the stem hole. So brought it into work today to actually pull the tire off. Everything looks fine. Gonna swap another stem in and maybe put a little rtv around the base of it 🤷‍♂️

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Looks like maybe the whole is off, too close to the curve and the stem will not seat? Hard to tell from the pics.
 
matzell said:
Looks like maybe the whole is off, too close to the curve and the stem will not seat? Hard to tell from the pics.
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i thought the same possibly but its the factory hole location for the F5, OMF did not modify that in any way and the rest are sealed just fine. i have the same wheels on the 80 too and there ok as well.

went ahead and put some rtv on an new valve stem and it currently setting up
 
I knew that you couldn't resist these! Ki is a nice guy...he's who I picked my M101A2 up from.

Maybe try these? I have some in my tool spares for the trail, but seem like a solid option that you can crank down a little tighter than just the rubber pop in's.

colbyvalve.com

Colby Valve

Patented Emergency and Permanent Tire Valves designed to replace faulty, damaged or failed tire valves without removing the tire on the road, trail or field.
colbyvalve.com colbyvalve.com
 
CrabCake said:
I knew that you couldn't resist these! Ki is a nice guy...he's who I picked my M101A2 up from.

Maybe try these? I have some in my tool spares for the trail, but seem like a solid option that you can crank down a little tighter than just the rubber pop in's.

colbyvalve.com

Colby Valve

Patented Emergency and Permanent Tire Valves designed to replace faulty, damaged or failed tire valves without removing the tire on the road, trail or field.
colbyvalve.com colbyvalve.com
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Put a small amount of rtv on it and it's good to go, no leak
 
NearJetties said:
When they finally empty all the Cadillacs out of the old Alexandria LR dealership before they tear it down and the test track is no longer blocked
Click to expand...

I lived just down the street from that store when it was built way back when. Been on the rollercoater a couple of times in a Defender and a LR4 on test drives.

It was a pretty cool store concept. Lodge showroom, with service bays below. The thing that kept me from buying was always seeing inbound LRs on flatbeds. lol

I do kinda feel the urge to take my D2 over there just to close the loop, so to speak.
 
I remember doing it with my mom driving when we test drove a D2. Paul Miller in NJ. Sadly we didn’t get one but also probably for the better. I did own a D1 for a few years and miss it but it was also a PITA even though it was one of the best years.
 
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So yesterday when closing the rear hatch on my 80 series the glass spiderwebbed across the entire panel. It's still intact (presumably it's tempered glass) and being held in with the weatherstripping. I'm supposed to go wheeling on New Year's Day so I'm thinking of putting painters tape across the inside and outside to keep it intact, seems like a good idea on paper.

Regarding the replacement glass, below are the part numbers for a 97, a link to 3M urethane sealant, and a thread I found with these part numbers and other info. Question I have is this: should I source the parts and have a local company do the replacement, or is this something I can do myself? Wondering if this has happened to anyone else and how you handled it and if so, what you would do differently (if anything). Any other materials I need to source?

Glass, Back Door $525
68131-60290

68131-60290 - Toyota Parts Deal

www.toyotapartsdeal.com www.toyotapartsdeal.com

Weathersrtip, Back Door Glass $125
68291-60050

68291-60050 - Toyota Parts Deal

www.toyotapartsdeal.com www.toyotapartsdeal.com

Sealant: 3M Urethane $16

forum.ih8mud.com

What is involved in swapping the rear hatch glass?

Hey folks, I'm in the process of replacing my rear hatch. I sourced a good hatch from a mud member and now I need to swap it for the old one. The old one has factory privacy glass so I'd like to switch the glass too. What goes into swapping the glass? Can I diy this? If not, what parts...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
@Mojo Jojo if you're anywhere near Sterling, talk to Mike at Windshield City. He's the absolute master of glass in this area.

If you search the pinned "local resources" thread, you'll find that he's probably doing most of the glass work for mudders in this area.
 
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