Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Patina preservation is underway!

I have just done the step with the orange pad and haven't applied any wax yet. I love this old paint, it's amazing what you can get out of it with a little effort. The reflections are crazy to see. Trying to remove all I can like badges, lights, and trim.

Now a question to the group, this is a well preserved example of a FST 40. I wasn't expecting the paint to clean up this well. Do I replace all the removable parts like the hood hooks, badges, lights with new OEM to freshen up? Or put the worn originals back on? I am 50/50 here. The originals are nice (and will be kept regardless). But I also like the pop of some fresh new parts on a polished up patina body.


View attachment 4023444

Hood pad removed, original Capri Blue paint hiding.

View attachment 4023463

Hood before. Hooks and pads removed. No polishing done yet.

View attachment 4023445

2 passes with the Griots compound and orange pad on the fender, apron, hood, bezel, and below the soft door. Only pieces not done in this photo yet are the windshield surround and soft door pillars.

View attachment 4023451

Left - B pillar polished, Right - soft door pillar untouched.

View attachment 4023453

Cleaning up nice! Had to test fit a new OEM badge I had on the shelf. Very happy with the results so far.

View attachment 4023458
That was a question i was asking myself when i bought my rig with original, patina paint. Ended up replacing badges, but have kept the old hardware. Happy with that compromise and once I saw the new badges in place i had absolutely no regrets. Old badges are now on the garage wall!
 
I started scrubbing at the oxidized gray paint on the Pig today with some CLR and a scrubber pad, curious if there was anything good hiding under the years of respray. It looks like there is.
IMG_5522.webp
IMG_5523.webp
IMG_5524.webp

Underneath the gray there is white, and at the bottom, red.

Does the red look like primer or paint to the people on here? I’m having to be very careful not to rub through it as it’s thin. There is red in the wheel wells so I’m inclined to believe it was red and white originally.
 
Ok need some advice as to where to start on my pig. This thing was stored under a tarp under fir trees for at least a couple years before I picked it up.

I hosed off all the pine needles today and pulled it out of my buddies shop to get another look at it. I parked it in January and just now got another look at it.

Whats my first step?

Power wash?
Hand wash?

If hand wash should I just use a normal wash mit?

IMG_4669.webp
IMG_4668.webp
IMG_4663.webp
 
Ok need some advice as to where to start on my pig. This thing was stored under a tarp under fir trees for at least a couple years before I picked it up.

I hosed off all the pine needles today and pulled it out of my buddies shop to get another look at it. I parked it in January and just now got another look at it.

Whats my first step?

Power wash?
Hand wash?

If hand wash should I just use a normal wash mit?

View attachment 4172723View attachment 4172724View attachment 4172725
Hit it with a power washer. Soapy hand wash with a brush and mit. Let it dry inside and out and give it a look over. Then again to get the chalk off and such with some 0000 scotch brite or the famous comet wash. Then a carnauba wax. Prob some Fluid Film on the scale. That's what I'd do.
 
Before you get it wet, I'd look it over completely to make sure all the water drains are clear. The last thing you need in an extremely rust prone FJ55 is standing water.
 
Ok need some advice as to where to start on my pig. This thing was stored under a tarp under fir trees for at least a couple years before I picked it up.

I hosed off all the pine needles today and pulled it out of my buddies shop to get another look at it. I parked it in January and just now got another look at it.

Whats my first step?

Power wash?
Hand wash?

If hand wash should I just use a normal wash mit?

View attachment 4172723View attachment 4172724View attachment 4172725
This thread is for patina. That thing looks brand new 😁

Another vote for a foam cannon or a foaming sprayer and something that lifts the dirt away a bit. With just a few minutes to soak and rinse off before a hand or power wash.

I use an ik foaming hand sprayer with some diluted optimum no rinse hyper foam, then just regular onr in a bucket with microfibers.
 
I'd power wash after a foam cannon soaking. Then spray the rust with WD-40.
Have you had luck with WD-40? It dries out too fast for me.

I liked fluid film, but it’s expensive to keep it on if it’s outside a lot, which most with patina usually are.

A buddy of mine picked up a tip at The Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals. Zep floor polish (the ~$30 gallon from Lowe’s or Home Depot).

Here’s a picture he took of the gloss (and a bear). Downside is that it seems more semi-permanent.

IMG_1510.webp
 
Clean the glass, and drive it! 😛
 
WD40 is a decent penetrant though right? Would it make any sense to spray the whole freaking thing with WD or even the cheap walmart lubricant version of it before you wash it, just to penetrate the dirt/rust/corrosion/oxidation and help "lift" it all away? Then the usual soap cannon, pressure wash, and then hand wash?

Ive been using a fair amount of the walmart "lubricant" on my 40 as Ive been bringing it back to life, and Ive thought about literally just spraying the entire exterior down with it. As others have said, its pretty thin, (the generic walmart version is even thinner I think) so its not hard to wash away.

To be clear, this is not for any sort of protection or rust prevention, but for the initial cleaning.
 
At least in some of the cracks and crevices that have built up and accumulated some gunk?...This stuff is cheap and actually sprays nicely too....what the hell, Im probably overthinking it but whatever, it cant hurt....

IMG_3326.webp
 
Back
Top Bottom