Power Steering Gear Box 105 Series Sector Shaft/Pitman Arm Upgrade

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There are certain things I won’t bother doing: steering gear boxes, transfer cases and transmission. It’s just not my kink. I’ll leave those to the professionals every time.

Redhead, and most others, will also do the porting for ram assist or hydraulic winch.
 
I didn’t think getting the box off and back on was that tough. It is definitely a great time to replace the high pressure hose (and all other PS hoses) as well as rebuild the pump as it is way easier to get to those things with box gone. Oh, a great time to throw a new fuel filter in while the box and pump are out as well, super quick and easy to to FF “while you are in there”.
 
For those of you still interested in Redhead, it came in today and looks 👌 real nice. It took exactly a week to order the shaft from Joey, get it rebuild at Redhead, and it getting to my door. Well done gentlemen.

I won’t have time to put it in until this weekend, stay tuned.

083194BE-3E2E-448A-A5AB-1C8E3A451D9A.webp
 
For those of you still interested in Redhead, it came in today and looks 👌 real nice. It took exactly a week to order the shaft from Joey, get it rebuild at Redhead, and it getting to my door. Well done gentlemen.

I won’t have time to put it in until this weekend, stay tuned.

View attachment 2280701
1 week to your door after having that work done and pass through multiple sets of hands is impressive to say the very least. Looks great!
 
"Is everyone plating the frame in this area???"

Does anyone make a ready made plate(s) to weld to the frame before it cracks?

Old thread on cracking:

 
For those of you still interested in Redhead, it came in today and looks 👌 real nice. It took exactly a week to order the shaft from Joey, get it rebuild at Redhead, and it getting to my door. Well done gentlemen.

I won’t have time to put it in until this weekend, stay tuned.

View attachment 2280701
Can't wait! I'm getting mine done next month once I'm settled from the move.
 
For those of you still interested in Redhead, it came in today and looks 👌 real nice. It took exactly a week to order the shaft from Joey, get it rebuild at Redhead, and it getting to my door. Well done gentlemen.

I won’t have time to put it in until this weekend, stay tuned.

View attachment 2280701

Hey Bret,
Can you break down the cost for us? If not, no biggy, just wanted a # for budgetary purposes. I'm assuming they didn't charge you extra for swapping the beefy parts since the old parts were removed from the box anyway?

Besides doing the seals and the beefy parts replacement from Joey, what else do they do that a DIY fella wouldn't be able to do?
 
Hey Bret,
Can you break down the cost for us? If not, no biggy, just wanted a # for budgetary purposes. I'm assuming they didn't charge you extra for swapping the beefy parts since the old parts were removed from the box anyway?

Besides doing the seals and the beefy parts replacement from Joey, what else do they do that a DIY fella wouldn't be able to do?

Sure thing. From Redhead it’s

- $395 for the rebuild
- $250 core charge (you get this back when you send in your old one),
- $35 dollar shipping
- $35 return shipping

Some people said they only got charged for $50 shipping...I live in East Tennessee, and Redhead is in Washington State, so that’s pretty fair. If you want to do the 105 shaft upgrade, they don’t charge anything extra, thank goodness. Just order the parts from Joey and have him send it to them.

 
Excellent, thank you Brett.

Besides the resealing, did they do anything special? Any internals got replaced that you know of?
 
Got it in, and it feels GREAT! No more steering play and it seems a lot smoother. My old one grinded a lot after I took it off however, so that might not be as drastic of an improvement for everyone.

Ran into a bit of rust issues, so all new stainless hardware, lower sliding yoke, and firewall shaft seal.

I’ll keep you guys posted if I run into any leaks or issues down the road, but for now, I think I can safely recommend Redhead.

16439EE0-EA5D-4D5D-B06F-38DD182A7FE3.webp
 
Ran into a bit of rust issues, so all new stainless hardware, lower sliding yoke, and firewall shaft seal.

Did you install the box with stainless hardware? If so, you just upgraded the box and shaft to make them stronger and then installed it with much weaker hardware. Assuming you are using 300 series stainless steel you have decreased the strength of the bolts significantly. Typical stainless steel is weaker than Grade 2 and I am thinking the factory bolts are more like Grade 8 based on the torque requirement (105 ft lbs). Just wanted to check... would suck to have the bolts fail on the trail now with a new box.

Eric
 
Did you install the box with stainless hardware? If so, you just upgraded the box and shaft to make them stronger and then installed it with much weaker hardware. Assuming you are using 300 series stainless steel you have decreased the strength of the bolts significantly. Typical stainless steel is weaker than Grade 2 and I am thinking the factory bolts are more like Grade 8 based on the torque requirement (105 ft lbs). Just wanted to check... would suck to have the bolts fail on the trail now with a new box.

Eric

Great point. Sorry about that, I was able to use the original 4 bolts that hold the box onto the frame thankfully, the only things I replaced are the nuts for the frame bolts in the picture (grade 8), and the 2 bolts on the new yolk. Lowe’s didn’t have any for the yolk, I was planning on calling the stealership today to see if I could get any.
 
Great point. Sorry about that, I was able to use the original 4 bolts that hold the box onto the frame thankfully, the only things I replaced are the nuts for the frame bolts in the picture (grade 8), and the 2 bolts on the new yolk. Lowe’s didn’t have any for the yolk, I was planning on calling the stealership today to see if I could get any.
Bolts 90105-12110 about $4.
Nuts 90179-12085 about $1.50
 

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