Power Antenna Issue

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Joined
Jul 11, 2019
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Location
South Carolina
I have a 2006 Toyota Land Cruiser with a power antenna issue. This of course is not a major problem, and I’m not losing sleep if I can’t reestablish the factory antenna function. My first reaction in fact was to just replace with a fixed antenna and be done with it. However, after spending some time diagnosing this unsuccessfully – thinking it should be a simple fix – I’m more curious now than anything just to understand the problem.

The relay/antenna motor engages as it should to raise and lower the antenna (both with the ignition on or in accessory and with the head unit switched to/from radio or with the manual raise/lower button on the dash used). However, the travel is only for a couple of inches in either direction. The first time this happened I assumed that the cable mast had broken and ordered a replacement before digging much further. So the replacement arrives, I pull and open the antenna motor, and found the mast to be fully intact with no other internal parts visibly worn or broken. I put everything back together and inserted the new mast just to try it, and the limited travel was the same as before.

Next, I traced through the electrical diagnosis that is outlined in the FSM. The motor functions fine in both directions when direct wired to 12v. Connections to the dash switch and relay all have voltage, continuity, etc. where they should. So I’m starting to think that I have a bad relay, order a replacement (albeit used) from eBay, and swap out upon arrival. Limited travel persists.

Just to be thorough I checked all fuses in the driver and passenger side boxes of the vehicle. All were good. Undoubtedly a longer shot but just covering all bases.

There are no aftermarket audio, electrical, etc. components installed in the vehicle. All are factory.

At this point I’m back to square one having only ruled out the more common issues. I have again pulled and disassembled the antenna motor and am looking to better understand how the limit switch/sensor functions as this is possibly giving a premature signal to the relay to stop the motor. Below are some pictures for reference of the switch/sensor location on the housing as well as the main drive gear:

2027020

Exterior of the housing with sensor/switch. Red/green/black are to/from the relay.


2027021

Wiring diagram.

2027022

Interior of the housing. The boxed area is opposite the sensor.

2027023

Main drive gear assembled. Bottom portion of the gear accepts power from the motor and the top portion reels the antenna mast. The magnet at top nests in the interior/eccentric circle area from the prior picture.

2027024

Main gear disassembled. The two parts turn together, but there is a spring internally that goes under tension when the mast is at the end of travel.
I’ve tried simulating the gear movement with a multimeter for continuity on the circuit but have not been able to open it. I would be very surprised if the sensor/switch has failed but perhaps that’s the problem. I’m hopeful that someone here with more expertise than I have could weigh in on a possible next step, as intuitively I still feel like there is something simple that I am missing. Appreciate any thoughts.
 
Welcome to mud. There are lots of helpful people here with different schedules, so replies are random. Have you tried searching this specific forum for your problem? You may find a thread that might help you.
 
Sorry you went through all of that. Do what gatormark said above.
 
It's not a problem, it's a feature. The button allows you to put the antenna down most of the way when you are off-road, so it doesn't get ripped off by tree branches or brush. The antenna won't go all the way up when the key is turned off and on again, when the height is set by the button. It is limited by whatever height it is set to by that button on the dash.
 
It's not a problem, it's a feature. The button allows you to put the antenna down most of the way when you are off-road, so it doesn't get ripped off by tree branches or brush. The antenna won't go all the way up when the key is turned off and on again, when the height is set by the button. It is limited by whatever height it is set to by that button on the dash.
Right, OP stated that he tried the button multiple times (as have I). When using the button, the antenna just stops and you hear a relay click, no matter what.
 
Yes, you are exactly right on the manual raise/lower feature, but unfortunately mine is not an issue with the limit set manually by the button. I can elaborate a bit more on the movement I'm able to get from the antenna: With power to the car and the radio on, the antenna will raise a couple of inches automatically and then the relay clicks out and the motor stops. I can then use the manual raise and lower button to move the antenna further, but it will only travel a couple of inches in either direction and then it stops. The amount of travel is not always the same (think two steps forward, one step back that kind of thing) so I'm able to inch the antenna up further but only a couple of inches at a time and only to about the middle of the total height. It won't move higher than that.

If the antenna is already lowered close to the bottom, it will fully retract when the radio or power to the car is turned off. If it's extended higher, it will retract automatically maybe 4 to 6 inches but not fully.

I was hopeful that this was a bad relay issue, but swapping the relay didn't solve it. I do appreciate all the suggestions, and likely I'm just going to go with a fixed base antenna as a replacement and forego the auto function altogether (though it will be a small nag to have a button on the dash that does nothing).

If there is anyone out there with an issue like mine or Keaton's and solved it, I would love to know what you did. I'm really just curious at this point to know the fix.
 
Yes, you are exactly right on the manual raise/lower feature, but unfortunately mine is not an issue with the limit set manually by the button. I can elaborate a bit more on the movement I'm able to get from the antenna: With power to the car and the radio on, the antenna will raise a couple of inches automatically and then the relay clicks out and the motor stops. I can then use the manual raise and lower button to move the antenna further, but it will only travel a couple of inches in either direction and then it stops. The amount of travel is not always the same (think two steps forward, one step back that kind of thing) so I'm able to inch the antenna up further but only a couple of inches at a time and only to about the middle of the total height. It won't move higher than that.

If the antenna is already lowered close to the bottom, it will fully retract when the radio or power to the car is turned off. If it's extended higher, it will retract automatically maybe 4 to 6 inches but not fully.

I was hopeful that this was a bad relay issue, but swapping the relay didn't solve it. I do appreciate all the suggestions, and likely I'm just going to go with a fixed base antenna as a replacement and forego the auto function altogether (though it will be a small nag to have a button on the dash that does nothing).

If there is anyone out there with an issue like mine or Keaton's and solved it, I would love to know what you did. I'm really just curious at this point to know the fix.

The whole reason I haven't done a fixed antenna yet is BECAUSE of that button. Same with AHC. I hate having pointless things that do nothing.

I'd try replacing the whole motor assembly, thats my next step if a new mast doesn't fix it (my mast almost feels like it snags on it self). I'm thinking that just over the years with varying temperatures, the motor's functionality has degraded and it binds under its own lack of power, so to speak. I wonder if just the motor can be replaced. I did something similar with a used unit for my 4Runner. $25 mast, free motor from a junked 4Runner and it worked as good as new. Either that, or there is a secondary load sensor in place to click off the relay if the motor is pulling too much current, but a new motor should also remedy that.

Do you have any more pictures of the motor and assembly? I'm curious to see if we can find a generic one that fits. On my 4Runner once again, the shell was bolted to the assembly and just removing the shell from the assembly gave you access to the motor's innards.
 
Absolutely. Here are several additional pictures. What you are saying makes perfect sense to me, though I had ruled the motor out in my case. I still may be wrong there, but it ran very strong in both directions when I direct wired it to 12v. I didn't mention in detail above, but I also tested the motor parts and got consistent resistance across the coils, no shorts, etc. Frustrating. I have burned hours on this

Have found several new complete motor assemblies on eBay (look for Toyota/Lexus part number 86300-60161), but they are all in the range of $250-$300. A bit steep in my view for what you are getting

Radio? Who needs a radio...

IMG_2958.JPG


IMG_2959.JPG


IMG_2960.JPG
 
Absolutely. Here are several additional pictures. What you are saying makes perfect sense to me, though I had ruled the motor out in my case. I still may be wrong there, but it ran very strong in both directions when I direct wired it to 12v. I didn't mention in detail above, but I also tested the motor parts and got consistent resistance across the coils, no shorts, etc. Frustrating. I have burned hours on this

Have found several new complete motor assemblies on eBay (look for Toyota/Lexus part number 86300-60161), but they are all in the range of $250-$300. A bit steep in my view for what you are getting

Radio? Who needs a radio...

View attachment 2028691

View attachment 2028692

View attachment 2028693

Motor looks exactly like my 4Runner’s power antenna motor. I’ll bet this is a pretty commonly used motor across Toyota’s lineup. I’ll see if I can find time to locate one in a junkyard again or find one online. Another option is having it rebuilt locally. I had good luck with a starter out of a 1953 Chevrolet being rebuilt locally. Dropped it off, picked it up a few days later and paid like $60. Worked great. These were good ol boys who’d been doing it for a while, so I trusted them to get it done right.
 
So the way the motor works, the limit switch goes to ground when the antenna goes the the end of its travel. This flips the relay, causing the positive and negative sides of the motor to switch, so it will then run in the opposite direction. The motor works, since it will run all the way up and down if you give it 12 volt current. (The manual switch on the dash confuses troubleshooting, though, since it adds a second set of wires into the mix.)

That means that the relay is sensing a change in voltage and switching, and stopping the motor. So you will need to find where that voltage drop is ocurring... Check the ground point in the right side junction box, first. If you are getting an intermittent short or have a bad ground, the relay will flip when it isn't supposed to. That is why you can inch it up and down, but it only goes a few inches, IMHO. Check your battery and chassis grounds as well.

I think the factory head unit is only supposed to send signal to the antenna when AM/FM is on? Could be a bad connection there, too, or perhaps something on one of the PCBs in the radio, too. You might pull the connector for the radio (pin varies, usually on the R36 connector), and supply power to the antenna sense wire, that would remove any possible issues with the radio from the mix.

The problem could be the actual manual antenna switch, too. If it's not providing enough voltage to the connection to the motor, when the voltage drops below the minimum level the relay needs to see, it could flip the relay as well.
 
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So the way the motor works, the limit switch goes to ground when the antenna goes the the end of its travel. This flips the relay, causing the positive and negative sides of the motor to switch, so it will then run in the opposite direction. The motor works, since it will run all the way up and down if you give it 12 volt current. (The manual switch on the dash confuses troubleshooting, though, since it adds a second set of wires into the mix.)

That means that the relay is sensing a change in voltage and switching, and stopping the motor. So you will need to find where that voltage drop is ocurring... Check the ground point in the right side junction box, first. If you are getting an intermittent short or have a bad ground, the relay will flip when it isn't supposed to. That is why you can inch it up and down, but it only goes a few inches, IMHO. Check your battery and chassis grounds as well.

I think the factory head unit is only supposed to send signal to the antenna when AM/FM is on? Could be a bad connection there, too, or perhaps something on one of the PCBs in the radio, too. You might pull the connector for the radio (pin varies, usually on the R36 connector), and supply power to the antenna sense wire, that would remove any possible issues with the radio from the mix.

The problem could be the actual manual antenna switch, too. If it's not providing enough voltage to the connection to the motor, when the voltage drops below the minimum level the relay needs to see, it could flip the relay as well.
Just based off my troubleshooting, I can almost guarantee you that, similar to our lock motors, this motor will need to be replaced as the vehicle ages just because it requires more draw than the circuit was designed to handle. Cleaning the motor might/should help, but its about time for a new motor or a rebuild anyhow. If I have more time this weekend, I'll start tearing mine apart.
 


Both of these feature a very similar, if not the same motor.

The part number on the motor's casing pulls up the whole assembly:
 
Did you sort this out? Having the opposite problem. The motor is not stopping when reaching end of travel.
 
I am having this same problem as you. Did you get it sorted?
regards, TRICRUISER
Yes. It was because of the aftermarket mast. The nylon string on it is softer and also thinner than the Toyota one is, and as strange as it sounds, that is enough to cause this problem. So I've bought a Toyota one and that worked straight away.
 
Yes. It was because of the aftermarket mast. The nylon string on it is softer and also thinner than the Toyota one is, and as strange as it sounds, that is enough to cause this problem. So I've bought a Toyota one and that worked straight away.
OK, thanks. Glad for you that is sorted.
 
OK, thanks. Glad for you that is sorted.
I know it sounds silly, and I didn't believe it when I've read about it on a different forum, but I've tought it is worth a try, and after holding both the oem and the cheap one in my hands I understood the problem. That said, there are cheap ones out there that work fine, but it is easier to buy the oem one instead of buying 2-3 cheap ones from different suppliers until you find one that works.
 
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