Pinstriped 1977 FJ40 (2 Viewers)

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Ah, thank you for all for the advice and suggestions so far. I am definitely making a list/spreadsheet and taking it a bit at a time. I'll report back on these suggestions for the priority list/electrical/rain intrusion.

What are the 4 bolts on the body tub above the back tires next to the side marker light used for?
I hadn't seen these before myself. They're on both sides, and they have little rubber covers. A MUD member that I've been in touch with here in South Florida that also has a '77 told me they were for a gas can attachment, but not sure if that's correct.

I definitely am dying to drive it while I get it into a bit better shape one step at a time. I will be back with more questions.
 

TheHardWay

Ain't as easy as it looks
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Looky what I found:


Thought I'd seen this somewhere!
 
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Did '77s come with 2 wheels without rivets compatible with the front disc brakes and 2 with rivets for the back? Or did I just end up with a mismatched set? I have 3 without rivets and 2 with rivets which the PO sent me newly powder coated (Not pictured as I haven't put them on yet)

The real reason I ask is because the ones with the rivets actually have a bigger valve stem hole than the ones without rivets, which I found interesting since I'll have to get two different sets of valve stems for new tires
 
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Ocho77

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Awesome! I too almost purchased that truck. Love it, and I'm not sure I would even repair the rust. Treat it and move on. She's a beautiful driver. Congrats!!
 
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First visit from a new friend I made on mud

2F69CCAB-A8DE-4676-A3EB-C37AEB693C3D.jpeg
 
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I feel a bit discouraged to post updates after seeing some of the awesome stuff other people are doing on here. But, I will do it anyway in case some of my newbie question and answer can help someone down the line.

I got a good deal on a set of tires, so I went for it even though I felt a bit bad for jumping the list of priorities. Just with new tires and new wheels, it looks like a different 40. One interesting thing I found (And asked about above) was that the PO sent me 2 wheels with rivets, 3 wheels without. I assume that's not how they came from the factory. Either way, good thing I had read about the rivets on mud beforehand. Ones with rivets went in back, without rivets went to spare and front.

IMG_4032.jpg
 
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I ordered a tune up kit from @cruiseroutfit together with a new radiator, some radiator hoses, fan v belt, and rear door weatherstripping. Apparently the air pump belt for a 77 is a bit hard to find. I also ordered a new shifter boot, ripped my original rubber mat in the installation process in a very silly way but it is mostly intact. I'll keep the rubber mats out until I can make the cabin more weatherproof.
IMG_4069.jpg
 
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I removed the gauge panel (After cursing quite a bit and finding the only very tiny space my hand could fit through to detach the speedometer cable from underneath). Then, poured a bucket of water over the hood seam and found that the rain was coming in through the seam and not the hood hinge bolts. Good thing I checked before removing the hood hinge bolts. I bought some 3M automotive seam sealer which I read about on here. The beige color goes with the paint, so it worked out well:
IMG_4039.jpg


I read on a few threads (For example, seam sealer) that you should put down painters tape to get a clean new seal:
IMG_4041.jpg


And finished product, I give it a C+:
IMG_4176.jpg

Now the only water in the footwell is coming in through the worn out kick vent weatherstripping.
 
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Inside of distributor looked like this:

IMG_4072.jpg


After installing the distributor portion of the tune up kit, it wouldn't start. I had to go back and set the points gap properly, which I didn't understand what the manual meant until I watched this video. After setting the gap properly, it started right up, and it is running immensely better. I tried adjusting the carb before doing this and it was impossible. Tune-up kit should be first on everyone's list.

Then, I adjusted the carb using the lean drop method in the FSM, but in reality, I watched @OTRAMM's video a couple of hundred times, which @reddog90 first recommended to me. I had actually tried tuning the carb twice before the tune-up kit- and failed miserably. One thing that wasn't immediately obvious to me is that if you follow @OTRAMM's video, he tunes the carb without the air cleaner on, but he doesn't mention you should plug the vacuum hose that goes from the air cleaner to the valve cover. There is a comment on his video that made me realize that I needed to plug the vacuum hose. The tune up kit and the vacuum hose plugged made it possible to tune the carb.
IMG_4075.jpg


Then, I verified timing, which was off, so I adjusted timing using a timing light (Set to 7 BTDC), and re-adjusted the carb. @reddog90 gave me the first few tips on getting a timing light, vacuum gauge, and adjusting the carb, timing, and valve clearance, which I haven't done yet.

After all this, idling is much better, but I still feel some shaking inside the cabin. I don't know what else to try- I've been avoiding adjusting the valves, I guess I can try that next.

I also found this thread helpful with regards to timing: Step by Step Instructions for Setting Timing?? (2F)
 
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Did '77s come with 2 wheels without rivets compatible with the front disc brakes and 2 with rivets for the back? Or did I just end up with a mismatched set? I have 3 without rivets and 2 with rivets which the PO sent me newly powder coated (Not pictured as I haven't put them on yet)

The real reason I ask is because the ones with the rivets actually have a bigger valve stem hole than the ones without rivets, which I found interesting since I'll have to get two different sets of valve stems for new tires

tc01,
US spec '77 should be all non-riveted wheels. I believe the larger valve stem hole on the riveted wheels is for tube stems. These wheels came with a rubber rivet head cover band to protect the tubes.

20130326_123739 (Small).jpg


20130326_123808 (Small).jpg
 
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what size tires? Crazy how much they can change the look
I went for 31s

tc01,
US spec '77 should be all non-riveted wheels. I believe the larger valve stem hole on the riveted wheels is for tube stems. These wheels came with a rubber rivet head cover band to protect the tubes.
Thanks for this info. The guy I bought the tires from had to special order the two tube stems. Hopefully this mismatched setup isn't too much of a headache down the line.
 
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Took me about an hour or so per ambulance door to get the old weatherstripping off. I went at it with a scotchbrite pad and multiple applications of goo-gone, judging by how long it took me, I don't know if that was the best choice.
IMG_4105.jpg


Good reference post: Removing weather stripping and its glue
 
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Joined
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Mark, a fellow mud member, has been helping me gain some confidence in doing a lot of these things myself. This past weekend we tackled replacing the water pump (New Aisin water pump and FIPG from CityRacer). I had also gotten a new OEM radiator, thermostat, and hoses from @cruiseroutfit.

Beach day look:
IMG_4167.jpg

Drained all coolant (Taking the drain plug out from the back of the engine block took me forever, but luckily it wasn't clogged), and flushed:
IMG_4170.jpg

I always forget to take photos in between, but this is the finished product.
IMG_4173.jpg

Letting it sit til I get another chance to fill it with new coolant and burp.

I read about removing the drain plug at the back of the engine block here: Neat and clean way to drain coolant from block - 2F
When I asked myself how much coolant to expect to drain out/how much new coolant to buy: 40 Series Fluid Capacities
V-Belt sizes: Correct V Belts-FJ40 1977
Water pump gasket questions: 2F water pump gasket
Basic instructions on water pump replacement: Water pump replacement on FJ40
 
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Joined
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Thanks for this info. The guy I bought the tires from had to special order the two tube stems. Hopefully this mismatched setup isn't too much of a headache down the line.
[/QUOTE]

tc01,
You may already know but the riveted wheels will not clear the disc brakes. You'll need to keep the riveted rims on the rear drum brakes.
 

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