Step by Step Instructions for Setting Timing?? (2F)

[undermind]

I've been searching around MUD trying to find some instructions, and can't find anything. Mostly I'm finding threads where people have had some problems setting their timing after they've already began the process.

I don't expect someone to take the time to tell me step by step in this thread, I'm just hoping someone's made a page or tutorial somewhere someone can link me to.

I'm a new owner of an FJ40 and would like to learn how to do these things myself rather than just pay someone else. I just have to learn from scratch- I don't know what TDC is, or much of the terminology. I'm willing to get a timing light or vacuum gauge, or time without if reliable.

So far I've replaced the spark plug wires, rotor, and contact set in the distributor. The point gap has been set. The motor runs.

Thanks!

 

[cliffrdavis]

timing

First you need a timing light, you don't necessarily need a vacuum gauge but if you have a late model cruiser (late 70s early 80's) then you may need it in the future given the number of vacuum hoses on them. I did a carb replacement and didn't end up using one.

A timing light comes with plugs to attach to the battery for power and then one plug to wrap around the #1 cylinder plug wire. Cylinder #1 happens to be the front in 2F engine. But they don't go in order (1-6... see this threadhttps://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/213191-piston-1-2f-front-yes.html?highlight=firing+order+2f )

When the trigger is pulled, engine on and the timing light is hooked up correctly it will light up when the first plug/cylinder fires.

Before trying to do the timing loosen the nut/arm holding the distributor (often called dizzy on Mud) in place... but do not turn it! You may want to mark the casing so if you do rotate it you can then turn it back to its original position. Do not take of the bracket holding the dizzy... just loosen it.

Lastly, you will need to check to see with your setup (if you have stock carb and dizzy just search on Mud) whether you need to pull off the vacuum advance on the distributor before you check the timing. There is vacuum formed from the carb that is attached to an advance diaphragm on your distributor. As you accelerate the vacuum increases which advances the timing. Most vehicles require you to unhook the vacuum from the distributor to use a "baseline" timing that won't be altered by altitude or engine rpms.

The spot to check the timing is a small window on the left in the back of the engine where the flywheel is. It may have a bracket covering it. You need to take off the bracket if there is one. Hook up the timing light, point it at that window. Hopefully, there is still a mark on both the flywheel and on the edge of the window. When the marks line up perfectly that is considered Top Dead Center (TDC). Most dizzys/carbs work optimally with some advance (5-10 degrees). When you rotate the dizzy it will change the timing forward/reverse. When you have it where you want turn off the engine, tighten the dizzy down.

You may need to search more on here for pics or on the internet, but its universal for most cars. Each car specifies whether to remove the vacuum hose from the dizzy and what the timing should be (for your carb).

Cliff