Build Pappy's 3RZ Adventure

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I fully understand that you want to attempt the valve adjustment yourself, I also tried but I got very very frustrated with; the stupid tools I was using and having to remove the cams a 2nd and possibly 3x’s.
BUT, I totally agree with gnob.
Speaking from experience with 7m, 2jz, 1uz and 3vz TOYOTA heads I would have the machine shop do the valve adjustment and be done.
They will just trim the valve stem on the valves that need it.

Good luck with whatever direction you choose.

And thanks for posting your build, very enjoyable to follow.

gnob said:
Dude for the record, you're probably better off $$$ letting the shop do it.
My guy has been able to do the ones i needed by trimming the valve and not swapping any more shims than necessary. It adds up fast, and if i was a betting man id say no way you hit it first try(no offense).

Just food for thought. ;)
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pappy said:
Since this project is stalled until I can pull the coins together to rebuild the bottom end, you will just have to suffer with glamour shots.

View attachment 1766523
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Very nice work! Any updates? Also, were you able to get the 3RZ-FE badges printed and ready to sell? I've looked on the small business page and didn't see them. I am interested in one.

Good luck. If you don't already have this done, I hope you will soon.

Thanks
 
Rooster65 said:
Also, were you able to get the 3RZ-FE badges printed and ready to sell? I've looked on the small business page and didn't see them. I am interested in one.
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Yep. 3RZ-FE Valve Cover Decal

I also have a third version with a narrow border that I think looks better.

1904460
 
I have to subscribe. You are an inspiration. Pappy, I'm using your 2F-E write-up as a guide for my 65 FJ40 restomod. I have also pulled everything from a 2000 3RZ 4Runner (engine, harnesses, etc, etc) to swap into my 85 4Runner...after I'm done with the 1UZ-FE swap in my 93 4Runner.
 
Ummm, what could this mean?

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Short story here is the engine is on the way to Boulder, CO. Robbie from Adventure Offroad (@powderpig) is in possession of the engine. Robbie is THE expert on the 1FZ-FE engine used in the 80-series LC's. I've known Robbie for a whole lotta years, and had a V8 juice moment when somebody suggest he rebuild the engine. The original plan was to have a local shop machine the short block, and I would finish the assembly. But, I just want it done, so Robbie has everything he needs to hand me back a complete long block.
 
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Turbo kit from them is cheaper (and turbos are better!) :)
www.lceperformance.com

Pro Turbo Kit (Low Boost) - 3RZ

Looking for a BOOST in power? LCEngineering has you covered with our premium quality turbo kits. Don't fall victim to the cheap kits on the internet they just don't last.
www.lceperformance.com www.lceperformance.com
 
subzali said:
Turbo kit from them is cheaper (and turbos are better!) :)
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Do you know @alia176? Cuz you sound just like him. Same old blah, blah, blah ... turbo this, turbo that. :flipoff2: The cost difference is insignificant. $225, on a $2500+ kit. Turbo has way more parts, is much more complicated, occupies more real estate under the hood and the kit doesn't include an intercooler or piggy-back ECU. The supercharger is a simple bolt on, no modifications.

Let me quote from LCE ...

One of the issues we have seen with turbo charging a daily driven vehicle is the extreme heat the turbo makes.
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and,

One major issue to consider when boosting your engine is fuel management. Your stock ECU was not designed to compensate for boost, especially high levels of it. LC Engineering always recommends addressing this issue to prevent any poor performance or engine damage that can be caused by improper engine tuning. One of the best ways to fix this issue is with a stand-alone or piggy-back ecu system. LC Engineering offers the Haltech ($2200) kits as a stand-alone and we also offer Split Second ($550) controllers as a piggy-back option.
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Bottom line, ya the turbo kit is cheaper, but it's not complete and requires significantly more work to install, and tinkering to make work correctly. Both forms of forced induction are better than stock.
 
I had a 3rz in my 4runner and loved that motor. Plenty of grunt to move the 3rd gen around I thought, but boost is always cool :cool:
 
Since, I'm feeling argumentative.... :flipoff2:

The following statement says it all, straight from the horse's mouth.
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The supercharger produces 4psi of boost which is considered to be a "low boost" system. So, if their turbo kit produces 4psi of boost, no additional ECU junk is needed.

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So, does anyone know the boost levels for their turbo kit? To me, the cost savings is negligible but the performance gain is more significant if you do a dollar per dollar comparison. Simply put, you get more power / psi of boost at elevation with the turbo. If you don't believe me, go look at this video by Gale Banks Turbo vs Supercharger

As far as complicated installations, that's hog wash:flipoff2:. Given the amount of complications you've gone through with engine swapping, building a 40 from scratch, you're more than capable of doing a turbo install. But I get the simple nature of a supercharger but the dollar goes further with the turbo. 45% efficiency vs 75% efficiency is just hard to beat.

The turbo isn't complete - what's missing?
 
alia176 said:
Since, I'm feeling argumentative.... :flipoff2:
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Hey, stay in your lane! This isn't the 1Fzzzzzzzzz forum. You just came back from a nice week off. Be nice.

There is no argument that I'm more than capable of doing the turbo install. But, I like simple. Anything I do to force air into the cylinders is a good thing.

alia176 said:
As far as complicated installations, that's hog wash:flipoff2:.
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Say what?

Supercharger: Blower + pulley + belt. Donedeal.

Turbo: Turbo, manifold, down pipe, waste gate, oil supply line, oil return line (drilling oil pan) ... and a lot more junk, and heat, under the hood. Plus more heat into the engine.

alia176 said:
So, does anyone know the boost levels for their turbo kit?
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Low boost kit: "The kit is designed to run anywhere from 5lbs of boost up to 15lbs of boost!! Even mild boost can take your little 3RZ engine upwards of 250hp!!"

High boost kit: "The kit is designed to run anywhere from 10lbs of boost up to 25lbs of boost! With boost like that it won't be hard to get 400+hp out of your little 3RZ engine!!!"

Do I need to also remind you about a previous comment on the subject?
alia176 said:
I'll wait 'till Pappy supercharges his new engine then it's game on :bounce: Because that's when he'll have to plot out the availability of 93 octane fuel in MX for his rice rocket.
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Think I will keep it mild, and simple.
 
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I'm a long way from install, but at least having the engine back is giving me motivation.

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Engine Left Side 2-sm.webp
 
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PORN ALERT, PORN, i tell you PORN :hillbilly:
 
pappy said:
It's a known issue with this engine that the exhaust manifold cracks. Mine was not an exception. No big deal. I'll replace with the mini-header installed in 2001+ Tacomas.
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Well, somebody reminded me I haven't updated this thread. Mostly, because I have nothing to offer. The reality is I need to make space in the garage to do this transplant, and the FJ40 is in the way. Progress will proceed on the 3RZ as soon as I make room. In the mean time I realized I made mention of the factory header Toyota used on the 2000+ Tacoma 3RZ engines, but I never posted anything up on that. So, here ya go. The manifold looks a whole lot like the Doug Thorley, but for a lot less money. I had mine ceramic coated silver. I also had the heat shield ceramic coated gunmetal gray.

Manifold is 17141-75080
Heat shield is 17167-75100

Manifold and shield-sm.webp


On the engine.

20201112_134318-sm.webp
 
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