So, I'm going to paint my 40. I'm going with what appears to be the original color, rustic green. What kind of paint was used originally: Acrylic, Polyurethane, or a base coat/clear coat? I mean, by quality standards, I think I should go with a base/clear application, but I'd like it to look era-authentic. Is there a huge difference in appearance when you're done?
Paint: acrylic, poly, or base/clear?
- Thread starter fergussen
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I prefer acrylic enamel to get as close to stock appearance/color as possible. Not 100% certain what was original, but assume it was a type of acrylic enamel. Definitely not lacquer, poly or base/topcoat system. While not OEM - I prefer a polyurethane or powder coat for stuff like the frame and related pieces - just as it lasts longer. Not a fan of base/topcoat systems - but it's all a matter of preference, unless you're doing a period restoration. Just my worthless .02.
I do a base clear on my rigs only because its easy to shoot and comes out close to original .Draw backs are it chips and scratches easy.Acrylic enamal is your best bet for endurance but haeder to shoot for me .
The original paint job was a single stage acrylic enamel. It takes about 2 gallons to do the entire vehicle.
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Interesting... The guy at the paint shop made it sound like Polyurethane was the toughest thing out there, but that base/clear "turns out" better. Acrylic was barely even mentioned. Really, what I don't want is a rig that looks like it's been painted 20 times. I realize that much of that is prep work, but it seems like I've seen well cared-for classic cars that look like the paint was poured on - I don't want that.
My plan is to leave the tub on, but remove all that I can: doors, top, hood, kick vents, fenders, windows. Sand with orbital and 220 grit. High build primer. sand primer with 600 grit. paint.
Can I use a thinner for my old bolts and smaller components? Do I need a specific kind?
Any other thoughts/pointers? Thanks for the input
My plan is to leave the tub on, but remove all that I can: doors, top, hood, kick vents, fenders, windows. Sand with orbital and 220 grit. High build primer. sand primer with 600 grit. paint.
Can I use a thinner for my old bolts and smaller components? Do I need a specific kind?
Any other thoughts/pointers? Thanks for the input
the biggest difference between single stage urethane & bc/cc is ease of repair in the event u have to get back into it. the clear in bc/cc is polyurethane, just like what is used in single stage. if u damage a single stage panel, u repaint the entire panel. if u don't have original color left over & or if the air pressure isn't exactly the same, guess what, it won't match. do the same to a bc/cc panel. u are able to blend the color in case of a bad match & then u just clear the entire panel. also w/single stage, the color pigment is mixed in so the sun can chalk it up faster instead of being covered by a solid coat of clear.
In my extremelly short experience (I have painted the rear right panel around 10 times trying to find a color I like) polyurethane is easy to shoot, gives a beautiful gloss and is quite resistant to scratches because it behaves like plastic. It is very forgiving on your mistakes (just sand it with 1000 grit and give another coat).
I don't think anyone uses a single stage acrylic like of the original paint jobs because of all the problems people are mentioning in this thread. Plus, it's 40 year old technology. The poly paints are easier to spray and more forgiving of mistakes. That being said, the acrylic will not be as glossy as the poly paints. So all those imperfections in the steel body of your beast will be clear as day with a poly paint. If you don't care if it's original and don't mind seeing all the ripples, dimples, spot welds, etc., go with the poly.
X2 on the poly. Just picked up some for my cruiser! I will post my results!
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