P1135 Check Engine Code, 3.4L, 2000 or newer (1 Viewer)

[Mr. Toad]

P1135 Check Engine Code, 2000 or newer

P1135 Check Engine Code: The code is specific to the Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

If you get one of these codes when the CEL lights-up, then you're looking at a +$160.00 part--the air-fuel ratio sensor--and about a C-note to have it installed if you're not mechanically inclined. It's essentially a wideband O2 sensor.

Anyway, this thing is under warranty up to 90,000 miles. Be sure to check before you spend the dough.

Edit: Bad info -- this is a warranty item only for the V8. Grrrrr.

 

[CHWTOY]

Same code on the 2.7's too, you can save a little if it's off of warranty by getting it from THESE GUYS. Same Denso part as you would get from the dealer, just less markup.

Oh yeah and save the C note, it's (2) nuts and a wire plug even easier than changing oil...

 

[Mr. Toad]

Thx CHWTOY. As it turns out, I'll be doing my own install. The waranty item is for the V8, not the V6.

 

[CHWTOY]

Yeah I was a little surprised when you said it was warranted that long, I thought it was only covered by the 30k/36 month. Since the 60k drive-train specifically exempts "sensors".

Be careful with ordering, those sensors changed a little each year and were motor specific. Might be worth a phone call or email when ordering to make sure you get the right one.

 

[Mr. Toad]

Yeppers, it's easy. REAL easy. Just in case someone out there is even CONSIDERING paying someone more than 20 bucks to do this, here is Mr. Toad's official AFR replacement write-up:

The vehicle I worked on was a 2001 Tundra, 2WD, Automatic, 3.4L V6. The CEL code was P1135. The Toyota part number for the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) Sensor is 89467-34021. It lists for $206 at the dealership but you can get it from Toyota here for $165, or check with C-Dan or your local dealer. Believe it or not, the dealer's parts guy will often . . . deal. It's made by Denso. I replaced it with Denso Part No. 234-9001, which I bought for about $165. Meh.

The first pic shows where the AFR is located. The camera angle is from the ground under the passenger floorboard area looking up and towards the front of the vehicle, past the catalytic converter and up into the engine compartment following the path of the exhaust towards the manifold, which you can't see. As you can see, the AFR sensor (basically, a wide-band O2 sensor) is just upstream of the first catalytic converter. It bolts onto two studs on the exhaust pipe.

 

[Mr. Toad]

For me, it seems like disconnecting the harness is often the most time-consuming part of any job. This one's easy if you follow these steps:

1) Follow the wires from the sensor to the plug. The plug connector is snapped into a metal bracket. The first picture shows the plug connector in its native environment.

2) Release the plug connector from the metal bracket by depressing the tabs on the sides (arrow) with a screwdriver or something.

 

[Mr. Toad]

3) Once the plug connector is free of the metal bracket, release the plug. Arrow "B" in the photo below shows the bracket after releasing the plug connector.

4) Arrow "A" points to the release button. Squeeze it while pulling the AFR side of the plug in the direction of the double arrow. The plug will slide free.

 

[Mr. Toad]

Now get out your favorite #12 wrench and remove the two bolts from the studs and take the AFR sensor out of the exhaust.

Note: My ratchet head was too big to clear the body of the sensor after about 2-3 rotations of the nut, so I ended up using a #12 box-end.

 

[Mr. Toad]

You might need to scrape off some of the gasket material from the mounting flange. After that, installation really is the reverse of removal. Put some anti-seize on the studs, But don't get any of it on the business end of the sensor.

Re-connect the plug harness, and snap it back into the metal tab.

Then, open the hood and find your engine fuse box. It's in the engine compartment above the driver's side tire, behind the battery. Mr. Toyoda was kind enough to place a fuse removal tool in the fuse cover. Pull out the EFI and ECM fuses. Put them back in. Start the truck and enjoy a wonderful dark dashboard.

Don't forget about the jar of anti-seize and leave it behind the front tire

Then lift one of these for Mr. Toad, and say, "That was way more fun than giving someone else $100."