Went to pick it up and the new OME 2.5 lift and its leaning toward the driver side. Its too much to ignore. He said the A and B springs are fitted correctly. Any things you guys have done to straighten it up?
OME install and got the lean toward the driver side.
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Who said the springs are correct?
Give it a month and see if they level out a bit
Give it a month and see if they level out a bit
What accessories do you have? A/B is less common for a US spec depending on how you have it setup.
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- #5
Shop that did the install. Explained how the springs are different front back and side to side.
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- #6
Has anyone used spacers or shims to alleviate the list?
I just installed 2.5" pro comp lift and experienced pretty bad lean to the driver side. I installed the ccot shim on the passenger rear and only made 1/8" difference. It's still noticable lean. I'm curious to see what others have done
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- #10
I'll get pics. Its still at shop. It's not a '"is that leaning a little"? It's like what is going on there. No lean at all with previous stock set up.
Mine was 3/4 of an inch lower on the DS (1978) bothered me a lot so I shimmed it.
I have seen ALOT of lifts with shackles that are WAY too tight ... all you need is an over tight shackle and it will have that lean
Also how big is your spare and what side is it on?
Also how big is your spare and what side is it on?
As mentioned above this is a well documented subject. I made a 3/8" plate to shim down the high side. Easy fix.
Something I copied from the LCML years ago:
All or most FJ-40's lean to the left a bit. Toyota has a bulletin about it. "Toyota Service Bulletin; Volume 5; Reference, Body; Number 10; November 14, 1976; Model FJ; Title, Body Slant" is the bulletin. It says to measure and find the "high corner"
(right rear, generally) and to install the listed Toyota Factory Slant Correction Plate. Yes, there is (or was...) such a beast. The part number is 48475-60010 and the caption for it reads: "Plate, Spacer". You will also need two longer U-bolts, part number 90118-14107, that are 175mm (or 6 7/8") long. Job time is rated at eight-tenths (8/10) of an hour and is reimbursible within the provisions of the Warranty Manual for dealers (Not that the warranty matters anymore...). Basically, you pull the u-bolts on the right rear, slip the spacer plate between the spring and the axle, install the new, longer u-bolts and tighten to stock spec. How does it work, you may ask?
Well, it isn't all that thick, but the length is key. Tightening a flat plate against the leaf will flatten or pre-load it a bit and lower that corner, leveling the vehicle. Leaving the plate out won't hurt anything, but I think putting it in may limit suspension travel and may harshen up the ride a tad. So, if you are restoring a truck for on-road use, it may be worthwile so you don't have a truck that leans. If you are planning to off-road, don't worry about it. As for why it leans in the first place, there are a number of theories. The one that sounds most logical is that the frame/suspension were originally designed for a right-hand drive truck, with the driver, gas tank and spare all on the right, and the engine was offset a bit to the left. So, on a left-hander, moving the driver over screwed up the weight balance a bit and it leans a bit after the springs wear in some. Mine leans. It also squats in back, but that's just the 171K+ miles and the crappy re-arch showing up...
All or most FJ-40's lean to the left a bit. Toyota has a bulletin about it. "Toyota Service Bulletin; Volume 5; Reference, Body; Number 10; November 14, 1976; Model FJ; Title, Body Slant" is the bulletin. It says to measure and find the "high corner"
(right rear, generally) and to install the listed Toyota Factory Slant Correction Plate. Yes, there is (or was...) such a beast. The part number is 48475-60010 and the caption for it reads: "Plate, Spacer". You will also need two longer U-bolts, part number 90118-14107, that are 175mm (or 6 7/8") long. Job time is rated at eight-tenths (8/10) of an hour and is reimbursible within the provisions of the Warranty Manual for dealers (Not that the warranty matters anymore...). Basically, you pull the u-bolts on the right rear, slip the spacer plate between the spring and the axle, install the new, longer u-bolts and tighten to stock spec. How does it work, you may ask?
Well, it isn't all that thick, but the length is key. Tightening a flat plate against the leaf will flatten or pre-load it a bit and lower that corner, leveling the vehicle. Leaving the plate out won't hurt anything, but I think putting it in may limit suspension travel and may harshen up the ride a tad. So, if you are restoring a truck for on-road use, it may be worthwile so you don't have a truck that leans. If you are planning to off-road, don't worry about it. As for why it leans in the first place, there are a number of theories. The one that sounds most logical is that the frame/suspension were originally designed for a right-hand drive truck, with the driver, gas tank and spare all on the right, and the engine was offset a bit to the left. So, on a left-hander, moving the driver over screwed up the weight balance a bit and it leans a bit after the springs wear in some. Mine leans. It also squats in back, but that's just the 171K+ miles and the crappy re-arch showing up...
Do they have your truck out front. I have to stop by Napa on the way home which is right next door.