gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Did you inadvertently hook up the oil pressure gauge wrong and fry it? Usually when it instantly goes high on start-up that is an indicator it was/is hooked up wrong.
Builds Ole Blue 60 gets a fresh start- EFI and more
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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It’s the same sender from the old engine, and the same connector, so there shouldn’t be any way to mess it up.
- Thread starter
- #263
I must have fried the sender or the gauge somehow.
It pegs when I turn the key not when the motor is cranked.
It pegs when I turn the key not when the motor is cranked.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
At least on mine there are two connection... a "button" on the very top of the sender and then the spade on the side. Looking at the connector piece logic would dictate that it goes on the spade... Well that is wrong, it goes on the button.
Isn't the spade an additional ground ? I've never connected to it .
- Thread starter
- #267
If I put it on the button nothing happens at all. Dead.
If I put it on the spade it spikes.
So, I had it hooked up wrong.
I tried the center. Nothing. Should Inadd that extra ground?
If I put it on the spade it spikes.
So, I had it hooked up wrong.
I tried the center. Nothing. Should Inadd that extra ground?
- Thread starter
- #268
I did the same thing many moons ago. It fried my gauge.
- Thread starter
- #270
Lovely.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Yep-fries the gauge. Does the same on 80s
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
yup fries that gauge... Now you call Onur and order a replacement 62 gauge and pop that badboy in. Ultimately it goes on the small button on the top of the sending unit, kinda slides on sideways like. Easy fix and really I think the 62 gauge was all of $70 when I fried mine.
So looks like the two major lessons learned from your experience...
1. Adapter plate from the TBI to 2F intake requires thicker gaskets to seal properly
2. Bolts that hold the TBI adapter plate to the 2F intake need to be replace with slightly shorter bolts (measurements to come later).
And after our private discussions, seems like when doing this the most logical place for the ECM is the glovebox (either in or custom mounted below) and that requires an "upgrade" of the harness to at least the 48" version (goes all the way up to 96")
So looks like the two major lessons learned from your experience...
1. Adapter plate from the TBI to 2F intake requires thicker gaskets to seal properly
2. Bolts that hold the TBI adapter plate to the 2F intake need to be replace with slightly shorter bolts (measurements to come later).
And after our private discussions, seems like when doing this the most logical place for the ECM is the glovebox (either in or custom mounted below) and that requires an "upgrade" of the harness to at least the 48" version (goes all the way up to 96")
I never would have guessed the gauge was that easy to fry. (Mental note taken)
I was pretty happy with the harness length on Nolen’s. It could have been a little longer, but it was much better than the one I had. Ideally, someone would shorten/extend/rebundle all the wires for the cleanest install and send back to AFI for them to redo the FJ60 template.
It is by no means sloppy, but there is a lot of room to really clean it up on the engine side of the firewall.
I was pretty happy with the harness length on Nolen’s. It could have been a little longer, but it was much better than the one I had. Ideally, someone would shorten/extend/rebundle all the wires for the cleanest install and send back to AFI for them to redo the FJ60 template.
It is by no means sloppy, but there is a lot of room to really clean it up on the engine side of the firewall.
- Thread starter
- #274
I just went and bought a tester until I get up the drive to pull the dash. I really hate doing stuff like that. Bad.
As for harness length I did 30”
Also, the bolts have the heads turned down that the 2 are too long so you need to use the ones they provide.
Last night I ordered a sheet of self make gasket material from Ramflex. I think the additional thickness of the gasket will make these supplied bolts be just right after. They are just right at the edge now but that does not allo you to fill the hole with RTV like I did the others
I don’t think mine is leaking there though. Mine is at the manifold and that’s likely due to it being a 34 year old piece of aluminum.
I can’t really deal with final tuning and questions about the throttle response and stuff I have for AFI until all the vacuum issues are taken care of. Unfortunately I’m
Flying to New York on Sunday so I’ll be off this a week.
I’m still going to drive it this weekend some. It runs great.
As for harness length I did 30”
Also, the bolts have the heads turned down that the 2 are too long so you need to use the ones they provide.
Last night I ordered a sheet of self make gasket material from Ramflex. I think the additional thickness of the gasket will make these supplied bolts be just right after. They are just right at the edge now but that does not allo you to fill the hole with RTV like I did the others
I don’t think mine is leaking there though. Mine is at the manifold and that’s likely due to it being a 34 year old piece of aluminum.
I can’t really deal with final tuning and questions about the throttle response and stuff I have for AFI until all the vacuum issues are taken care of. Unfortunately I’m
Flying to New York on Sunday so I’ll be off this a week.
I’m still going to drive it this weekend some. It runs great.
No need to pull the dash to replace the oil pressure gauge...pretty easy project.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I have that same tester. I don't think it has the proper BSP thread adapter.
- Thread starter
- #277
Man.......
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I think I got the adapter from BSP to NPT from Summit. Then the kit has an NPT adapter. It's been a long time though.
- Thread starter
- #279
Yeah, just need to pull the gauge cluster. Easier to do it if the steering wheel has first been removed. After you struggle with the FJ60 speedo cable you'll be wanting to upgrade to the longer FJ62 cable.
