Jack, thanks a ton for all of that information. I have done some research already and from what I'm reading, 33's or even 35's are doable without even regearing. I am a bit dubious but I think 33's should be fine. I hear you on the loading and ride quality of the stock springs. That makes sense.
As far as PM goes, I am figuring on replacing every bit of fluid in the car, axle seals and bearings, birfield repacks, that kind of thing. Does that sound reasonable to you?
Lastly, if I had to guess I'd think you're almost telling me NOT to get an 80 unless its low mileage and a 96/97. I see you sold both of yours, built up as they were and have a chevy truck now. I'm not opposed to that but am wondering... why?
The only people saying that you don't need to regear live at sea level or are kidding themselves. I felt my LX needed to be regeared even with 33's. I wouldn't even bother with 35's unless you are going to regear and even then most and I would agree, go deeper than is required. 4.56's and 35's put everything back to stock, most, including me, went 4.88's because 80's need it. There just isn't enough grunt in the motor when fully loaded/armored.
Every fluid is a nice start, but add:
Complete cooling system: radiator, clutch fan, all belts/hose including the small hose just above the starter on the side of the block (it likes to go)
Starter, unless it is new. Toyota mini/LC starters only seem to last about 100k and then it won't start, no other warning.
Alternator brushes (unless it was replaced by the PO).
Most likely the rear upper pan arch seal is leaking and or the front cover is leaking.
U-joints and or driveshafts (especially the rear) is most likely in need of replacement. 'Cause as soon as you lift it, the vibrations start or before in the case of my '96.
Don't get me wrong, I still like 80's but I tell everyone, if you buy one realize that you are buying a work in progress and you will have to spend money on it.
Personally, if I were going to buy another LC, it would be a 100 series. Yeah the IFS isn't a SFA, but for 95% (or better) of what and where you will go, it won't matter. Never once did Spresso or I get to a spot where my 80 outperformed his 100. The 100 is better on the numerous dirt roads, the IFS just rides/drives better. We were both locked front and rear with 35's. A 100 series with 33's is a very capable rig for exploring Nevada's backcountry. Plus as Rusty alluded to, they typically get the same or better MPG than an 80.
The reason for the Chevy, was a couple of reasons, but the big one is we wanted a truck to haul a Four Wheel Camper. It just came down to comfort when camping, we got tired of a tent. We typically don't stay in one spot, we move every night for a week or more at a time.
Don't mind Jack he has a disease, he likes to build really nice rigs then sell them at a loss.
(It's kind of a running joke with the club.)
I think the 100 series gets about the same MPG as the 80 and has a ton more power. If you stick with 33's you can get away with minimal lift, and no re-gearing. They are, in general, lower mileage rigs than the 80's out there and there are more and more on the market.
Down sides for the 100 series;
- The big down side to the hard core guys is the IFS. I have not found IFS to be a huge disadvantage on any of our trips. Unless you plan to go big on the rubber it's probably not an issue. If you go over 33's things get complicated fast, ask Spresso.
- Weak front end diff, basically plan to install an ARB. Just do it, don't even consider not doing it.
- Typically the 100K PM's have not been done and they are pricey unless you DIY it. (Timing belt, tensioner, water pump)
- The stock ride is way to soft, for us even on the street there was to much body roll. OME springs, Bilstien shocks and 33" Toyo Opencountry MTR's cured this for us.
Admittedly we can't keep up on the more technical trails, but even sticking to the milder roads there is a lot of Nevada back country we have yet to see.
And you sir:
Jack
